Pre-treating a 22 suppressor for easier cleaning?

[tonyben]

I tore down my 22 suppressor a while back and it was a royal pain! It hadn't been torn apart in many years. It took days of scrubbing and it wasn't until after I had it clean that I found out about the dip. I'll now clean it every 1000 rounds. My question is; is there any kind of coating I can put on the internal parts to keep the lead from sticking to the baffles and the aluminum housing? Has anyone tried a dry lube or is there any kind of spray that I can apply that would have the effect of Teflon?

Thanks,

Tony.

[Libertarian_Geek]

Back in Boy Scouts, I remember putting soap on the bottoms of pots and pans before using them over a fire so that the soot would wash off easier. I don't remember how much it helped. Regardless, there may be factors inside a silencer that are significantly different. I am intrigued by the concept and hope that you find something that's favorable. I still need to purchase a .22 silencer one day.

[Ratbat]

I have some plastic tubes from Brownell's that I fill with Hoppe's #9. I soak the whole suppressor in there for a couple of hours before attempting to take it apart. That seems to make disassembly much easier. I checked with the suppressor's manufacturer before I did this and they assured me it would not harm the finish. Once I pull the suppressor out of the Hoppe's I drench it with Kroil penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes before attempting to disassemble. After cleaning I just run a patch of CLP through it and put it back together.
As a side note: I don't know why we can put a man on the moon but not get a cleaner burning rimfire.

[ericlw]

well carbon is a basic element. nothing is going to dissolve it. so thats the problem.

[gunguy]

I get a plastic bag and spay the internals with Kroil, then let it sit over night.

[tonyben]

I don't know if you guys are getting what I'm asking. I basically am hoping there's a trick to applying a protective coating while the suppressor is squeaky clean so that the carbon and lead can be flaked off, like spraying pam on a cookie sheet and cookies being able to be scraped off easily because of it.

If not, that's okay, just wondering.

Tony.

[doubloon]

We get it.

It's the stuff at the auto parts store in the blue can on the shelf right next to the RX8 timing belt grease.

[Ratbat]

I understood what you were asking. There's nothing you can do to make it not cake-up. What we are trying to do is make the cleaning process easier once it's dirty. If you can't prevent it...at least make cleaning up as simple and easy as possible.
Good luck.

[tonyben]

Alright, cool. Thanks. What prompted this question was that it took me a few days of soaking in PB blaster and I almost destroyed a baffle trying to get it apart after not cleaning it over around 4 years of use.

Again, thanks,

Tony.

[eastern_hunter]

I wonder ... assuming steel baffles ... might the spray that is used to reduce the fusion of MIG welding spall to the work do any good?

Frankly, I just pop the stack into the wet tumbler with stainless pins and get it back to new.

[dwelsh]

I pre-coat my Sparrow's internals with Welders Anti-Spatter Spray (and also use it as a wetting agent). It's non toxic and works far better than nothing. Everything beyond the first baffle pretty much wipes clean, leaving just a small amount of scraping/brushing. I clean mine after every 500-700 rounds, and after several thousand, It looks brand new inside and out.

[tonyben]

I pre-coat my Sparrow's internals with Welders Anti-Spatter Spray (and also use it as a wetting agent). It's non toxic and works far better than nothing. Everything beyond the first baffle pretty much wipes clean, leaving just a small amount of scraping/brushing. I clean mine after every 500-700 rounds, and after several thousand, It looks brand new inside and out.

That's what I was looking for! Thanks! Where can I get some?

Tony.

[seattlite]

Welder's Anti Spatter...thanks for the tip!! Looks like Ace Hardware carries some. I'm going to stop buy Home Depot/Lowes to see if they carry the spray.

[Tony M.]

Also, in your first comment you mention the dip, and also mention that you have aluminum baffles. With anything aluminum, you should avoid the dip, as it eats AL as well as PB.

[cmichael]

I tore down my 22 suppressor a while back and it was a royal pain! It hadn't been torn apart in many years. It took days of scrubbing and it wasn't until after I had it clean that I found out about the dip. I'll now clean it every 1000 rounds. My question is; is there any kind of coating I can put on the internal parts to keep the lead from sticking to the baffles and the aluminum housing? Has anyone tried a dry lube or is there any kind of spray that I can apply that would have the effect of Teflon?

Thanks,

Tony.

FYI...Try FROGLUBE. It work on my Spectre II.

[tonyben]

Thanks again. My baffles are steel but the housing (tube) is aluminum. The end caps are steel.

Tony.

[Dr.K]

I was also gonna recommend froglube.

[tonyben]

Thank you. I'll try them both.

Tony.