Does anyone know of, and especially if anyone has any pictures of a suppressor that is finished in traditional blueing?

I imagine that the heat might affect the finish (but let me know if I am wrong).

How were the Maxim cans finished?

I think it would be great to see a really beuatifully finished suppressor alongside an equally beautifully finished pistol as a matching accessory. Anyone have anything?

Thanks in advance.

GHEN

Sorry no pics.
The Maxim cans I have handled have been "blued".

I had order'd a Stainless 45 suppressor to match my SS Colt 45.
The suppressor came Black....so it got mounted on a blued Colt

A number of cans these days are stainless, aluminum or titanium so "traditional" bluing probably doesn't apply to them.

Cerakote has a decent looking royal blue finish, but it won't truly match hand polished bluing.

I've never been in contact with a "blued" suppressor. Following the thoughts that my rifle barrels blueing doesn't seem to be affected by the heat of shooting, thinking a blued suppressor should retain it's visual presentation.

Having said that, blueing is associated with steel. The suppressors that I'm familiar with, have tubes that have a non-steel composition. A steel tubed suppressor would be a heavy bastard... sorta like my YHM Phantom... wait... never mind.

I have no interest in blueing that baby. ... but if I did, I'm thinking it would retain the blueing.

doubloon wrote:A number of cans these days are stainless, aluminum or titanium so "traditional" bluing probably doesn't apply to them.

Thanks, I know this question isn't really germane to modern suppressors.

MJF1911 wrote:Cerakote has a decent looking royal blue finish, but it won't truly match hand polished bluing.

Thanks, something to think about. I appreciate it.

continuity wrote:I've never been in contact with a "blued" suppressor. Following the thoughts that my rifle barrels blueing doesn't seem to be affected by the heat of shooting, thinking a blued suppressor should retain it's visual presentation.

Hmmm, really good point. Don't suppressors heat up relatively faster than barrels though? This is just based on observation so I could be very wrong.

GHEN

GHEN wrote:...
Hmmm, really good point. Don't suppressors heat up relatively faster than barrels though? This is just based on observation so I could be very wrong.
...

I think oil based bluing requires the barrel to be 700+ degrees, I'm thinking cold bluing should be able to stand up to that much heat or more.

How hot do you plan to take it? Serial mag dumps until everything is cherry red?

GHEN wrote:

doubloon wrote: Hmmm, really good point. Don't suppressors heat up relatively faster than barrels though? This is just based on observation so I could be very wrong.

GHEN

From my testing its not much faster.

Grounded wrote:

GHEN wrote:...
Hmmm, really good point. Don't suppressors heat up relatively faster than barrels though? This is just based on observation so I could be very wrong.

GHEN

From my testing its not much faster.

I didn't write that but I agree ... if you pull that barrel from under the slide after the can is almost too hot to handle so is the barrel. I've swapped barrels in my P229 from 9 to 40 to 357 and back around again after a couple-three mags each and the barrels can be quite toasty depending on how fast you empty the mag.

A Color Case Hardened can on a lever gun would look pretty sharp.