What LocTite do you use for thread on cans and brakes?

[holdemcyclist]

What LocTite, or other compound, do you use for thread on cans and muzzle brakes / can mounts?

First question - I have a PWS SBR and Gemtech Trek T on the way. I do not see myself shooting this rifle without the can. And at this time, I do not have another host for this can. Should I use LocTite or some other compound to make sure the Trek T does not come loose?

Second question - I have a Sig SSG 3000 rifle. I just removed the factory flash hider and ordered a muzzle brake / mount for it. This mount will accept my AAC 762-SD. I plan to shoot this rifle some with the can, some without, just depends on my mood, the application and how much accuracy I loose with the can installed. Knowing that I will go back and forth between the factory flash hider and muzzle brake / mount, what compound should I use on these threads?

[RJT]

I wouldn't Loctite a can on, it would be very difficult to clean the rifle with it on. Just make sure to check it every now and then when shooting.

Rocksett is the only thing I've used for brakes, and flash hiders. It is very heat resistant, and holds better than Loctite.

[Vagabond]

i would not use any loc-tite on your Direct thread cans. i think that is asking for trouble. if you have the proper threading and shoulder on your barrel, a good suppressor should be able to be locked down, by hand tightening only, and seldom come loose, though its a good idea to check it throughout long shooting sessions.



as to the removing the mount and factory muzzle device over and over, i wouldnt do that either, but thats just me. i would pic a muzzle device and stick with it. i think pulling those on and off, constantly needing to time them and torque them, will wear on the threads and could cause concentricity issues.

that said, i just use blue loctite on my suppressor mount devices. ive never had a problem with it as long as you use the correct shims, loctite, and torque.

[holdemcyclist]

Ahhh, good info. That is why I love forums like these. I assumed there would need to be some sort of thread lock. I will use this rifle for three gun and I might shoot 30-40 rounds per stage and can then check tightness between each stage.

as to the removing the mount and factory muzzle device over and over, i wouldnt do that either, but thats just me. i would pic a muzzle device and stick with it. i think pulling those on and off, constantly needing to time them and torque them, will wear on the threads and could cause concentricity issues.

If that was an option, I would pick it. However, my SSG 3000 is threaded 18x1. The only mount AAC makes is a brake. However, when I shoot F-Class on occasion, they do not allow brakes, mainly because it is rude to those next to you. They will allow my to use a can, even though it is technically against F-Class rules, because I am just out for fun. But if I loose much accuracy with the can, I will shoot without it, and that means removing the brake.