Hey guys.
Back in May I placed an order for a Spectre2 and a SpecWar 762 on which I plan to use with several different hosts.
I would like to use the SpecWar on my Ruger SR-762 (factory threaded muzzle), my Savage bolt action (still need to get the barrel threaded professionally), and a Spanish FR-8 (which is basically a K98 Mauser converted to 308 and sporting a NATO birdcage flash suppressor).

On the site I've read many posts about baffle strikes and, frankly, it has me concerned.
After investing in these suppressors I'm hoping that it doesn't happen. Is there a way to verify that the threading on the muzzle is concentric enough to avoid a baffle strike prior to shooting the rifle?

For example, would it be sufficient to attach the suppressor and pass a wooden dowel through the bore of the rifle and through the can?

Any input would be appreciated. I did perform a search on the forum but did not come up with anything. It could be that my forum-search-fu is not sufficient. If so, I will work on that.

Tony

It's highly unlikely any wooden dowel would be straight enough. Wood moves, changes with humidity variations. Perhaps a brass rod would do the job. I'd check it against a high quality straight edge from all sides and handle it very carefully. A carbon fiber rod might be better, provided it was very straight. You'd also need the diameter to be very close to the bore size, a reasonably snug lubricated slip fit. Carbon fiber would be good in terms of lightness too, less affected by gravity. Though of course it's still best to check with the barrel vertical.

Santander wrote:Hey guys.
Back in May I placed an order for a Spectre2 and a SpecWar 762 on which I plan to use with several different hosts.
I would like to use the SpecWar on my Ruger SR-762 (factory threaded muzzle), my Savage bolt action (still need to get the barrel threaded professionally), and a Spanish FR-8 (which is basically a K98 Mauser converted to 308 and sporting a NATO birdcage flash suppressor).

On the site I've read many posts about baffle strikes and, frankly, it has me concerned.
After investing in these suppressors I'm hoping that it doesn't happen. Is there a way to verify that the threading on the muzzle is concentric enough to avoid a baffle strike prior to shooting the rifle?

For example, would it be sufficient to attach the suppressor and pass a wooden dowel through the bore of the rifle and through the can?

Any input would be appreciated. I did perform a search on the forum but did not come up with anything. It could be that my forum-search-fu is not sufficient. If so, I will work on that.

Tony

Most gunsmiths have the proper tools and can provide this service at a nominal charge.
If you use a cartridge style bore sighting laser you can check alinement by installing the suppressor with a piece of masking tape covering the muzzle, the red dot should be dead center.

Being someone that makes my own silencers from scratch, I find that a simple visual check is very accurate.

Place the bore with can attached on something still like a table or bench so that a bright surface, or preferably the sky can be seen from the breech looking out. It's very noticeable if things are not lined up.

Look down the barrel from the breech end with the silencer mounted. You will be able to see most misalignments. If you are still really worried, Geissele makes and sells a very straight bore rod in both 5.56 and 7.62mm diameters for doing exactly this sort of check.

Everyone, thank you for your responses. Hopefully I will be able to find any issues, especially on this old rifle, before they happen.

Conqueror, it looks like you are probably right down the road from me. I work in RTP and live in Apex.

I use a home made alignment rod made from tool steel. Super easy to make. $3 for most calibers is adequate. Photos and specs here:

http://nfatalk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10177


It's already saved one can from destruction. A sliver of steel in the threads is all it takes to misalign the can. I use the rods every time now.

Santander wrote:Conqueror, it looks like you are probably right down the road from me. I work in RTP and live in Apex.

Yep, sounds like we are neighbors. I live near the intersection of Sedwick and 55 just outside RTP. Where do you shoot?

wacki wrote:I use a home made alignment rod made from tool steel. Super easy to make. $3 for most calibers is adequate. Photos and specs here:

http://nfatalk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10177


It's already saved one can from destruction. A sliver of steel in the threads is all it takes to misalign the can. I use the rods every time now.

Thanks, Wacki.

Conqueror wrote: Yep, sounds like we are neighbors. I live near the intersection of Sedwick and 55 just outside RTP. Where do you shoot?

I used to shoot out at Durham Wildlife Club and the Wake Co. Range.
Now I mainly shoot at SSI in Louisburg. I sometimes go to the range in Ramseur to shoot out to 500.

I am mainly at DPRC in Mebane.

I am wondering what a "cause" table would look like for baffle strikes. Any of you gray haired long-toothed experts want to take a stab?

My uninformed guess:

Baffle strikes are due to:
50% Due to suppressor actually being "loose" on the threads?
25% Due to ammo problems like old ammo, incomplete burn, etc.
15% Due to improper mix of barrel length, twist, load, weight, etc.
3% Improper installation of quick mount?
1% Poor suppressor design?
1% Misalignment due to bad suppressor threads?
1% Misalignment due to bad barrel threads?
1% Misalignment due to improperly installed crush washer, other washers, etc?
3% other reason: _______

How many poorly done gunsmith jobs actually result in misalignment at the range?

85% Due to suppressor actually being "loose" on the threads?
5% Due to ammo problems like old ammo, incomplete burn,Bad handloads or incompatible twist with ammo used.
.5% Improper installation of quick mount?
5% Machining errors in production of suppressor.
1% Misalignment due to bad barrel threads?
3% Misalignment due to improperly installed crush washer, other washers, etc?
.5% other reason: _______

Speaking as a gunsmith most are either loose or are factory errors.