SWR Warlock II .22 can, which end is the front for the tube??

[hardcase]

I picked up my .22 Warlock II today. I made the mistake of my first can to not dis-assemble it before it got cruded up.

I took this can apart, not shot, and three of the baffles fell out one end and two the other. The directions that came with it show which direction, i.e. front vs back for the baffle stack, but not if the tube itself has a front or back. The end caps thread on either end. I don't think the tube matters but thought I'd double check to make sure.

Any advise?

[quiettime]

Photo on their site shows in the picture with the mount on the left side of the engraving.

http://www.silencerco.com/products/

[quiettime]

BTW I'm in the process of buying the same can. I got rid of .22 Mag a while back and have no plans of HMR or 5.7, plus I'm a fan of saving weight so it really seemed like a no-brainer.

Let me know what you think about it

C

[hardcase]

BTW I'm in the process of buying the same can. I got rid of .22 Mag a while back and have no plans of HMR or 5.7, plus I'm a fan of saving weight so it really seemed like a no-brainer.

Let me know what you think about it

C

If I knew how, I'd move this to the Silencer Reviews section but don't know how. But at any rate;

I found enough pictures to get the baffles oriented with the tube, at least like those advertised. I'm still not sure it makes a difference. Nothing was mentioned in the directions that came with the suppressor.

Evaluation:

It is so light compared to my other, bigger bore cans that it seems dainty. I weighed it on my reloading scales and it weighed 1,299 gns, a little more than 3 loaded .308 rounds. I doubt it would be noticeable on a long gun.

It has an O-ring seal at each end cap. The one on the muzzle end is visible but most likely would be a bit tough to replace as it is inside the end cap and fits to the end of the barrel. I put a little automotive motor oil on them to help keep them from shredding. The directions stated the O-rings were not necessary for the can to work, just helped to seal gasses where they belong.

You will need their optional pusher rod, a wood dowel, a strong finger, or in my case I used the back end of a tooth brush to get the baffles out once they get dirty.

I finally got around to shooting it on my Walther P22. I could see over the can, using my factory iron sights. First step was to shoot paper with the three types of .22s I have to make sure there were no key-holes. I had a pack of CCI standard velocity that didn't have the any noticeable super-sonic crack. Even the super-sonics were hearing safe for a shot or to without ear protection, through I normally wear at least muffs regardless. My ears are more sensitive than most folks. I could hear the bolt closing at least as loud as the round going off. Ate up 40 rounds off my back deck fast without any jams. Could be an advantage in having a single shot if ammo consumption is a problem.

I've got a rifle on my want list in the near future that has a threaded barrel. My current batch of .22 rifles don't have threaded barrels and I don't want to mess them up.

[quiettime]

I'll be getting a CZ 455 to supplant my AR conversion. Probably one of the best values in bolt 22 these days, although I read the Ruger American Rimfire is "available" threaded now.

[zb39]

It does not matter which end you start with. The tube is the same front to back and back to front. I shoot one on a Ruger 1022 take down. Awesome can, I love it with regular velocity 22 ammo, cycles the gun fine and the most noise is from the bullet striking the target.