Further experimentation is warranted, but I suspect that a soak in silicone oil (Think DOT-5 Brake fluid) might be just the thing to help bring back sealed cans, especially those that can't be dipped.
When I put a little silicone oil in my sealed can, let it soak for 10 minutes and then pushed some compressed air through there, it blew out more crap than using the dip on the same can ever has.
As far as I know, the silicone oil should be material safe for almost anything conventionally used in the construction of the sealed suppressors. If you have wipes in your can (probably not sealed) they might swell, but unlikely to be a major issue.
The silicone acts as a penetrating oil, reducing the surface adherence of the carbon and lead buildup, and suspending them in a colloidal state. The goo can be removed via air pressure.
The resulting 'sludge' should be treated as a hazardous material, just like anything containing lead would be, and be disposed of properly. The Silicone oil shouldn't introduce any additional toxicity, and may in fact help to reduce the likelihood of airborne lead particulates due to it's viscous nature and colloidal containment of the carbon and lead.
I take no responsibility for the use of this information, but I hope it might prove helpful to some folks with older .22 cans.
Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
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- Bendersquint
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
Sadly, this has been tested exhaustively and it performs on par with mineral spirits and other liquids tested over the years.
The only 'miracle' liquid is the dip.
The only 'miracle' liquid is the dip.
Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
I'd be curious if you did any testing yourself?Bendersquint wrote:Sadly, this has been tested exhaustively and it performs on par with mineral spirits and other liquids tested over the years.
The only 'miracle' liquid is the dip.
The reason I ask is that I had significantly improved outcome as compared to anything else I've tried.
- Bendersquint
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
Yes we tried it a couple years ago when we were looking for an alternative solution for aluminum baffles and limiting buildup since the dip is out of the question.Tony M. wrote:I'd be curious if you did any testing yourself?Bendersquint wrote:Sadly, this has been tested exhaustively and it performs on par with mineral spirits and other liquids tested over the years.
The only 'miracle' liquid is the dip.
The reason I ask is that I had significantly improved outcome as compared to anything else I've tried.
We tried a dozen or so liquids and some pastes.
Nothing really worked well enough to make it worthwhile.
What is your definition of significant?
Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
How much is "a little"?Tony M. wrote:...
When I put a little silicone oil in my sealed can, let it soak for 10 minutes and then pushed some compressed air through there, it blew out more crap than using the dip on the same can ever has.
...
What is the make, model and year of the suppressor?
What does the suppressor weigh now that it is "clean"?
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
I have a TacSol Cascade. I called TacSol and they told when the time comes to clean to soak the can in mineral spirits.
That's exactly what I'm gonna do...I will take the word of the manufacturer over all others...
That's exactly what I'm gonna do...I will take the word of the manufacturer over all others...
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
OK....post back your results.dullh wrote:I have a TacSol Cascade. I called TacSol and they told when the time comes to clean to soak the can in mineral spirits.
That's exactly what I'm gonna do...I will take the word of the manufacturer over all others...
I am sure they will be the same as all the other people including the manufacturers(like myself) that have tested this throughout the years.
Please post a picture of the core before mineral spirits and then after. No scrubbing, blasting with air, chipping, ultrasonic etc....just after the mineral spirits.
- whiterussian1974
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
While the TacSol Cascade can have internal pics, the original post was for SEALED cans. So it will be difficult for those w/o a borescope to photo the inside of their sealed cans pre and post experiment.Bendersquint wrote:OK....post back your results.dullh wrote:That's exactly what I'm gonna do...I will take the word of the manufacturer over all others...
I am sure they will be the same as all the other people including the manufacturers(like myself) that have tested this throughout the years.
Please post a picture of the core before mineral spirits and then after. No scrubbing, blasting with air, chipping, ultrasonic etc....just after the mineral spirits.
For those people, weights are best. Original, pre and post soak. Plus, after being blown out w compressed air and ultrasonic shaking would also be great.
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
Yes, please do.Bendersquint wrote:OK....post back your results.dullh wrote:I have a TacSol Cascade. I called TacSol and they told when the time comes to clean to soak the can in mineral spirits.
That's exactly what I'm gonna do...I will take the word of the manufacturer over all others...
...
Please weigh the can before and after cleaning and if at all possible filter off the solids that come out of it for a possible determination of lead vs carbon vs other content.
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- whiterussian1974
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
Great points. It'd be interesting to learn if any lead comes loose. It seems that once "lead welding" occurs, no oil would loosen it unless there was a special coating that prevented the lead from binding w the surface.doubloon wrote:Please weigh the can before and after cleaning and if at all possible filter off the solids that come out of it for a possible determination of lead vs carbon vs other content.Bendersquint wrote:OK....post back your results.
...
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Re: Possibly useful info for folks with sealed .22 cans.
my m10 .22 kit gets shiny lead build up near the bolt face...whiterussian1974 wrote:Great points. It'd be interesting to learn if any lead comes loose. It seems that once "lead welding" occurs, no oil would loosen it unless there was a special coating that prevented the lead from binding w the surface.doubloon wrote:Please weigh the can before and after cleaning and if at all possible filter off the solids that come out of it for a possible determination of lead vs carbon vs other content.Bendersquint wrote:OK....post back your results.
...
I've found that elbow grease works pretty well with a metal scraper.