First trip to the range with my new suppressor and I have some questions!

[sucker76]

Hello all. I got my Saker 762 and got to the range with it. First of all it was a blast! I set up a peice of cardboard with a 1" grid on it to record the drop of the subs and check accuracy with different brands of ammo. So far I have only shot factory loads. All shots were with the suppressor on. I sighted in with the fastest bullet and then kept the same aim point for all the rest. I was very disapointed with the accuracy. Most of the subs were 5" low and a little to the right. My range was 30 yards! My best group was rem/umc 220gr. OTM. I knew the subs would be low but is this TOO low? The groups were also spread pretty wide.



On my worst day I could get a 3 shot group you could cover with a quarter at the same range with the previous muzzle brake.
My rifle assembled by me:
Anderson upper/lower
AIM melonited M16 BCG with bolt
SOTA Arms 8" 1:8 barrel pistol gas
generic low profile steel gas block and gas tube
Mil spec trigger group with JP springs
LWRC UCIW stock
Spikes Barking SpiderII muzzle brake (previously)
SilencerCo trifecta brake (current)

Another concern I have is CLP lube in the suppressor. How critical is it? I shoot my AR's wet. I did make sure I shot first without the suppressor just to make sure I blew out most of the lube from the barrel. I did notice some CLP coming from the joint between the MAAD mount and the body after shooting with my 5.56.



Here is a video of me shooting with and without the Saker 762. I was shooting Gemtech 187gr. subs for the video.
https://youtu.be/kDNjLvX9Uzg

Thanks

[Bendersquint]

10+ inch drop is a bit excessive from super to subs at 100 yards.

Most are in the 1-3" max drop range.

You don't want to run your silencer wet, I wouldn't worry about the residue in your picture personally.

[sucker76]

Thanks for the response. I'm going to work on handloads to get the accuracy up.

I knew not to run rifle suppressors wet and didn't mean to. When I saw the CLP on the joint I kinda freaked out. Thanks for easing my mind.

[dullh]

I don't have the 762, but I have the Saker 556. When I screwed mine on for the first outing I was dead center but 2 inches low at 100yds. Mine smoked like a grease fire too...but it stopped smoking after I burned off all the factory goop.

Also, I use the direct thread mount since the rifle its on will be run permanently silenced...but it's still super fast to switch the Saker to my trifecta mount for times when I want to use it on my other rifle which has a trifecta muzzle brake.

Anyhoo, I did have a wierd accuracy problem with one can - my Warlock II. I suspect my dealer let people play with it before I bought it, because the threads were jacked-up. Silencerco swapped me for a new endcap and problem went away. Point is, whatever your mount, check it to make sure its tight and true.

[sucker76]

Thanks for the response. I will go check the brake. I didn't like the idea of putting loctite or rockset on it. I was talking to a freind who also has suppressors and he told me to tweak the mount to get the accuracy up. I may try it with the brake turned 180 degrees and see what happens.

[JasonM]

not sure I completely understood about the lube thing- Your barrel should be completely dry, no lube at all in the bore. Running AR's "wet" should only refer to the BCG.


Your groups and shift do look pretty big for 30Y, that's on the high side for what i'd expect at 100.

and like others have mentioned, the mount needs to be installed solidly (rocksett), and it wouldn't hurt to check the concentricity and alignment of the barrel's threads.

[sucker76]

How do I go about checking the concentricity of the threads? Does it need to be checked on a lathe?

[RJT]

I used a digital micrometer, and took measurements all around the bore.

[sucker76]

Good idea. I can borrow a mic from my dad. I take it the cheapo digital caliper I have won't be accurate enough.

[RJT]

Sorry, I got my tools confused, use a caliper.

[sillycon]

Good idea. I can borrow a mic from my dad. I take it the cheapo digital caliper I have won't be accurate enough.

Honestly, a cheap dial caliper should work fine for what you're doing. Being off by a measurement only detectable by a mic isn't likely to be throwing you off by that far with one load vs. another.

Are these all hand loads or factory? If hand loads, what were they?

The fact that it's on with the supers makes me think it isn't a bore/thread alignment issue but something else; maybe the gases are flowing around the slower bullets differently causing turbulence or such?

[sucker76]

These were all factory loads. I haven't gotten my reloading set up 100% I am going to go to the range this weekend if the bad weather holds out. I'll take more tools and tweak the brake (turned around, off, different torque etc) to see how it affects the accuracy.