No Quick Datach...What are my options??

[groganOCC212]

Hi all,
The first suppressor I ever purchased was a Gemtech Trek. It is a great little .223/5.56 suppressor that is screw on/off.

Recently I have been asking myself the question...and now turn to the community...how do I keep a screw on suppressor seated tightly so it does not unscrew itself? I have tried to tapes and liquids but the heats melts them away after 1 mag. In my situation I have it set about 4 inside of an Odin Works KMOD rail system. I personally have tried to develop a kmod system to tighten down around it but nothing successful yet...

Griffion Industries does make HMMS systems that I can grab onto and giver her a tighten but I want something more reliable...and less prone to catching on fire. And if I could keep my suppressor inside my rail system

Has anyone seen/heard/developed a system that can solve this problem? I have reached out to AAC/GemTech but have not had any really good ideas.

Thanks!
Mike

[jryock]

Just my $0.02...

(1) Lubricate the threads and tighten the components to 70-80% of yield.
(2) Add a crush washer or other device to keep tension in the connection.
(3) Add a small amount of Rocksett to the threads.

I'd prefer options 2 or 3 if you are consistently taking the suppressor on and off since you do not want to fatigue the components.

[RJT]

Don't use any washers.

[Bendersquint]

Just my $0.02...

(1) Lubricate the threads and tighten the components to 70-80% of yield.
(2) Add a crush washer or other device to keep tension in the connection.
(3) Add a small amount of Rocksett to the threads.

I'd prefer options 2 or 3 if you are consistently taking the suppressor on and off since you do not want to fatigue the components.

You NEVER EVER EVER want to use a crush washer with a silencer, you are asking for a baffle strike as you don't know for certain that EVERY time it is installed that it crushes evenly.

[David Hineline]

If you use a Nord-Lock washer you will have a hard time getting it off. If that is your goal it will not come loose. I always had good luck with hand tight, then shoot till hot then tighten again. Once heated expanded and tightened unless I got it even hotter they never came loose.

[paco ramirez]

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/0 ... -mounting/

[ratas calientes]

If you use a Nord-Lock washer you will have a hard time getting it off. If that is your goal it will not come loose. I always had good luck with hand tight, then shoot till hot then tighten again. Once heated expanded and tightened unless I got it even hotter they never came loose.

Have you noticed any wear using the Nord-Lock washers? How would these be any better than a crush washer?

[jryock]

Just my $0.02...

(1) Lubricate the threads and tighten the components to 70-80% of yield.
(2) Add a crush washer or other device to keep tension in the connection.
(3) Add a small amount of Rocksett to the threads.

I'd prefer options 2 or 3 if you are consistently taking the suppressor on and off since you do not want to fatigue the components.

You NEVER EVER EVER want to use a crush washer with a silencer, you are asking for a baffle strike as you don't know for certain that EVERY time it is installed that it crushes evenly.

Thanks for the info, Bendersquint. I learn something new every day; I didn't consider uneven compression. Has there been any of those experiences using spring-type lock washers?

[aries14482]

I highly recommend Rocksett. I degrease both threads and use a couple of drops and have never had my thread-on can come loose, despite many sessions of rapid fire.

[Coltm4]

If you use a Nord-Lock washer you will have a hard time getting it off. If that is your goal it will not come loose. I always had good luck with hand tight, then shoot till hot then tighten again. Once heated expanded and tightened unless I got it even hotter they never came loose.

Have you noticed any wear using the Nord-Lock washers? How would these be any better than a crush washer?[/quote

I noticed some lines that radiate outward from the "splines" on either half of NordLock. Not an issue unless you are either super anal retentive about barrel ends or constantly mount and unmount. The tighter you install, the deeper in theory the marks will be. I just lightly hand tighten it because it still takes effort to remove. I for one love this method. Probably the only thing I like about AWC cans I own and of the 3 AWC cans, the Raider is my favorite (not that I would ever buy one again)