Long term storage, RUST issue

[RWBlue]

Long story cut short, I had my SWR HEMS suppressor in long term storage. After 6+ years, I was back where I could pull it out and go shooting. I made a tool to remove the end cap (2 Roller pins, vitamin cap and some JB Weld).

What I find inside is a fairly rusted spring and a piston that will not move (rusted in place).
The end cap is in good shape, no rust.
The piston appears not to have any rust on any part I can see.

I put some penetrating oil in there and let it set over night. The piston is still not moving. I will be hitting the road here in another hour, so I will not see this again for at least 3 months, maybe a year.

What I think happened is I was using ultrasound gel when I shot it the last time. I am guessing that some of it made it around the pistol or the water vapor was still in there or.... It was basically a climate controlled environment. The other guns there have had no issues.

Thoughts, suggestions, solutions?


I have some images, but no way to get them from that camera to here right now.

[Historian]

An effective rust remover is to soak rusted part in a tray of
white vinegar or if access to photo lab 10cc Glacial Acetic Acid,
stop bath, in 1,000 cc water tray.

It is amazing how the rust is whisked away. Then rinse and
oil. Teflon oil seeps into the metal and protects it.

As for long term storage I have used Shell's Vapor Phase Inhibitor.
Read :<< http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Vapor_phase_c ... _inhibitor >>

My one pound container purchased in 1965 is now down to a cup full ...
but various metal parts stored in ammo canisters or PVC 4" pipe are pristine.

The powder has 3 parts: fast evaporation, slower release, and very slow release.
Folks have also used rice in cheese cloth as an absorbent.

A minor point: never use spray oil on gun parts
as the pressure change absorbs water from atmosphere
and coats the weapon with an effective rust loving layer.

[mpallett]

Put a bunch of kroil in it.

If you can't get it apart, send it to me and I'll help you out.

- Matt / (formerly of SWR)

[jimbo45]

Put a bunch of kroil in it.

If you can't get it apart, send it to me and I'll help you out.

- Matt / (formerly of SWR)

well thats pretty nice of you I have to say.

[RWBlue]

Put a bunch of kroil in it.

If you can't get it apart, send it to me and I'll help you out.

- Matt / (formerly of SWR)

Thank you!

When I get back to where it is (probably spring) located I will see how it is.

[Ecirp]

An effective rust remover is to soak rusted part in a tray of
white vinegar or if access to photo lab 10cc Glacial Acetic Acid,
stop bath, in 1,000 cc water tray.

It is amazing how the rust is whisked away. Then rinse and
oil. Teflon oil seeps into the metal and protects it.

As for long term storage I have used Shell's Vapor Phase Inhibitor.
Read :<< http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Vapor_phase_c ... _inhibitor >>

My one pound container purchased in 1965 is now down to a cup full ...
but various metal parts stored in ammo canisters or PVC 4" pipe are pristine.

The powder has 3 parts: fast evaporation, slower release, and very slow release.
Folks have also used rice in cheese cloth as an absorbent.

A minor point: never use spray oil on gun parts
as the pressure change absorbs water from atmosphere
and coats the weapon with an effective rust loving layer.

Glacial shouldn't be required in this context, it adds expenditure but can also be a chemical hazard.