Problem dealing with a LH threaded barrel & a RH threaded adapter to can

[hardcase]

I just got the appropriate booster for my HK .45 ACP. The factory barrel was threaded LH. My booster threads to the can RH. I tried my usual teflon tape routine but it doesn't work that well at the adapter to can junction. I don't really like this LH/RH set up but my choices were limited. Now when I tighten one, it loosens the other. Both tend to shoot loose after 3-4 rounds, at least enough that I need to tighten them to stay in my comfort zone to prevent baffle strikes.

I have some blue Loctite 242 thread locker.

I don't want to use blue Loctite if I cannot get the booster off the can. Using channel locks or some other aggressive tool might scratch the can and is not something I want to do.

Is there a method for making the Locktite turn loose? Other recommendations would be welcome as well.

[fishman]

Have you tried a strap wrench?

[doubloon]

strap wrench or heat

This is why I got RH threaded barrels for my Sig's

[Zombie1969]

Heat will loosen the lock tight just use a butane crack torch. I'm surprised you can't find a LH booster they got to be out there.

[hardcase]

I have a strap wrench I will try but the one I have is a cheap one from Advance Auto. I might try some type of rubber mat to keep it from slipping.

Glad to get the info about the heat. I'll try a little daub of Loctite.

I bought the booster/adapter from Liberty as that is the brand of the .45 can (Cosmic). My Mystic adapter/booster will work on the Cosmic too. I have not tried the reverse but assume it will. That would be a BIG FUBAR, trying to push a .45 ACP through a 9 mm booster/adapter. I'm getting full up with booster/adapters as I now have seven. I'm going to label a seperate drawer for each and drop a bullet through each to make sure it fits before shooting.

[Fulmen]

LT 242 is a good choice of glue, it's formulated for removal with hand tools. If necessary one can soften it with moderate heat:

"For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because
of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C). Disassemble while hot"
From: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf

[WasDustyJacket]

Assuming you are talking about the threads between the booster and the can:

I hold the booster to tighten it to the barrel.
I hold the booster and tighten the can to it.

Mine does not come loose after a magazine, but I still check.

[Zombie1969]

I'm not sure why the op is even using an adapter. Just Google 16x1 lh booster piston and place the order?

[hardcase]

Assuming you are talking about the threads between the booster and the can:

I hold the booster to tighten it to the barrel.
I hold the booster and tighten the can to it.

Mine does not come loose after a magazine, but I still check.

This is my normal routine as well, or at least it was before I had to have surgery on both thumbs. Now I can't unscrew the top on a beer, which may not be a bad thing I'll see if I can rustle up a couple better strap wrenches and use them to counter each other. I sometimes use this rubber, non-slip matting that helps to keep my grip from slipping, available from a camper supply store used to keep dishes from walking around in a camper while on the road. I'll use the heat as a last ditch solution before sending them back to Liberty to get apart.

I've learned all the ins-and-outs of suppressors takes time. They are not just screw it on and go shooting.

[doubloon]

...
Glad to get the info about the heat. I'll try a little daub of Loctite.
...

I carry PTFE tape with all my suppressors for a quick fix.

It's not everyone's favorite because it can get gummy and if you're not careful it can build up and cause alignment issues of it's own.

[hardcase]

I'm not sure why the op is even using an adapter. Just Google 16x1 lh booster piston and place the order?

I suppose I should have called it a recoil booster assembly instead of an adapter/booster. Liberty has it listed on their web store under adapters http://libertycans.net/product-category ... cinfinity/ I assume the adapter part was what screws to the barrel since they come in different threads and the booster part was what had the spring inside. These were specific to Liberty's products.

As a side question, I'm interested in the "3 lug mounts", after my gun buying takes a breather. Are they universal or specific to a given silencer make. This could solve many of my problems. I have a Yankee hill 30 cal suppressor that has it's own flash hider that screws into the suppressor. I wouldn't call their system a 3-lug mount though. I have different "adapters"/flash hiders for my AR 15s and AR 10s for this Yankee Hill suppressor. These are easy for me to move the can around with my weak thumbs. I'm assuming a 3-lug mount would work the same for my Liberty products. Am I wrong?

[doubloon]

...
I suppose I should have called it ...

I believe most of us were capable of understanding what you meant.

[Zulu95]

Have you tried Rocksett. It sets up hard but a soak in warm water will break the bond if you want to remove it. SIG used it on the threads of my MPX and it refused to give until I soaked it in water.

[hardcase]

Have you tried Rocksett. It sets up hard but a soak in warm water will break the bond if you want to remove it. SIG used it on the threads of my MPX and it refused to give until I soaked it in water.

Good idea. I can get some at Brownells. Since I have one of their membership things, I get free shipping. I need to get another thread protector for my HK LH 45 ACP and for my 1911 45 ACP which has RH threads. Gives me a motive for ordering all three items.

In the mean time, I can try just a little bit of the blue thread locker with a bit of heat to loosen the bond. I would be more comfortable with a water soak.

I got two better strap wrenches yesterday and used the two as best I could. In the mean time, I'll just check frequently or just shoot my 300 BO