I was reading up on this the other day and came across an article that went in depth about this. Just about every way possible was used and reviewed. What ended up being the best was prevention. The author found that baking the supressor baffles at 250deg and soaking them in dot 5 break fluid created a sort of none stick surface. The silicone was the trick from what I gathered.

I like corn starch and kerosene

Zombie1969 wrote:I was reading up on this the other day and came across an article that went in depth about this. Just about every way possible was used and reviewed. What ended up being the best was prevention. The author found that baking the supressor baffles at 250deg and soaking them in dot 5 break fluid created a sort of none stick surface. The silicone was the trick from what I gathered.

This article?

T-Rex wrote:

Zombie1969 wrote:I was reading up on this the other day and came across an article that went in depth about this. Just about every way possible was used and reviewed. What ended up being the best was prevention. The author found that baking the supressor baffles at 250deg and soaking them in dot 5 break fluid created a sort of none stick surface. The silicone was the trick from what I gathered.

This article?

Ya that's it.

bwp777 wrote:I have read several threads on dips and chips and ....................................errr........................

well dips anyway

my recipe is Hoppes #9 and a can of Aerokroil.

it does an excellent job of softening and dissolving the lead and crap on everything I have soaked. your results may vary

Ammonia not good on aluminum...

doubloon wrote:I like corn starch and kerosene

Was this for real or just suppose to be funny. Seems kind of odd but a lot of stuff dealing with guns is odd at times. If for real what is the ratio of corn starch to kerosene.

hardcase wrote:

doubloon wrote:I like corn starch and kerosene

Was this for real or just suppose to be funny. Seems kind of odd but a lot of stuff dealing with guns is odd at times. If for real what is the ratio of corn starch to kerosene.

Well ... I guess it all depends on your perspective. But I don't recommend it for ironing.

http://littlehouseinthesuburbs.com/2012 ... aners.html

Glass and Stainless Shine (and oddly, spray starch for ironing)
1 cup of water
1 TBSP of cornstarch
Mix, spray on, wipe off (or iron in, as it were.)
*If you don’t use this pretty quickly, it will sour. So just mix up enough for a week, and keep it in the fridge, or just mix it when you need it.

Been using 50/50 peroxide and vinegar for years... on stainless.

WooD wrote:Been using 50/50 peroxide and vinegar for years... on stainless.

toxic but very effective on lead

Mercury will dissolve lead as well....though I'm unsure how it does with aluminum

Tack52 wrote:Mercury will dissolve lead as well....though I'm unsure how it does with aluminum

I don't even want to know what the byproducts of that process will do to you

Tack52 wrote:Mercury will dissolve lead as well....though I'm unsure how it does with aluminum

Mercury attacks aluminum, don't do it.

Tack52 wrote:Mercury will dissolve lead as well....though I'm unsure how it does with aluminum

Mercury is so corrosive to aluminum that federal regulations prohibit mercury thermometers on airliners. If one breaks and the mercury escapes, there is no limit to how far it can travel and how much of the airframe it can compromise.

Wow, that's both impressive and terrifying at the same time....

Tack52 wrote:Wow, that's both impressive and terrifying at the same time....

There are videos on the web to verify just how much mercury hates aluminum.

Sodium hydroxide will dissolve lead (and aluminum). It is however safe for steels.

savage54 wrote:

Tack52 wrote:Mercury will dissolve lead as well....though I'm unsure how it does with aluminum

Mercury is so corrosive to aluminum that federal regulations prohibit mercury thermometers on airliners. If one breaks and the mercury escapes, there is no limit to how far it can travel and how much of the airframe it can compromise.

OK, I went back and checked, and I was slightly wrong. You can pack a personal mercury thermometer in your carry-on or checked bag, so long as it is in a secure container that will prevent leaks. Gov't employees of weather bureaus, etc., can take a larger mercury thermometer or barometer on board in carry-on only, after declaring it to the airline, and it has to be in a sturdy inner bag that can fully contain the mercury in the event of breakage.

But with the convenience of today's digital thermometers, who would want to take a mercury unit with them anyway?

OK. Interesting thread. My first suppressor, a .22, has aluminum baffles. What is the easiest way to clean it?

hardcase wrote:OK. Interesting thread. My first suppressor, a .22, has aluminum baffles. What is the easiest way to clean it?

Scraper

Technically, you can ultrasonic clean it but have to use very PH balanced solution. That won't help with lead.

Best bet: pre-treat with the silicon and clean within 200 rds. or you cook it off. Use copper plated lead.

Use Ed's Red for days pre-soak.

I just got an email from the manufacturer of my .22 can with aluminum baffles. They recommended a soak in mineral spirits, then scrap with a popsicle stick and toothpick. I might have to try this using protective gloves etc. and proper disposal.

I tumbled the baffles, one at a time in my Thumbler with soapy water, stainless pins like I do with brass but don't do brass one at a time . This worked somewhat, but took forever.

"or you cook it off". Does this mean you can heat the baffles to the point where the lead will boil off? Will heating aluminum to say 800 degrees melt the lead off and not hurt aluminum?

Temperatures that high will likely wreck the heat treatment of the aluminum.