Just got my NEW SWEET Dead Air MASK HD...but problem

[hbk80rice]

I put it on my Ruger MK3 22/45 and after shooting LESS THAN 100 RDS it took off my barrell threads/thread adapter with the can! It was a MAJOR pain in the ass getting the pistol thread off the can and back on the pistol. I had to use heat and 2 different vice type grips. Even with towels being used it still scratched my BRAND NEW can. I literally just brought it home YESTERDAY (it has been in my possession less than 24hrs). Other than the can not working right or having a problem that shouldn't have occured, it scratched wife bday present. I dont care what MY cans look like but she does more than having new shoes....so needless to say im f'ed. Why did this happen and what can be done?
Thanks
Ken in TN

[hbk80rice]

Listen guys!!!!!! I sent this same message to Dead Air Armament Customer Service and they called my home in LESS THAN 5 MINS & was willing to do any and everything to make it right.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE GUYS! They stand behind thier products and if an anomaly occurs, the will fix it free of charge and do it right away, not when its convenient for them, but so you can get it back to play with your can. This IS the definition of PERFECT CUSTOMER SERVICE

BUY FROM THEM!!!!!! YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED!!!

A+++++

[a_canadian]

Perhaps contacting them first, before posting a public rant, might have been... well, more polite? Good to hear they're taking care of you. But really i can't see how this is their fault, or their responsibility. If your threaded adapter comes loose from the pistol barrel, isn't that because you failed to use some Loc-tite on the adapter-to-barrel threading? Maybe a dab of grease on the adapter-to-silencer threads would have been a good idea as well. After all, the threads are fairly similar size and type, it'd be more or less a coin toss as to which one came loose, and the adapter threads on the barrel more likely after extended dirty firing.

And if you scratched the can, isn't that because you used Vise-Grips on it instead of a properly padded vise? Not everyone's a machinist, or even necessarily all that good with tools, but this seems pretty basic for a thin walled cylinder being put under considerable force in a way for which it was not designed. I'm frankly surprised you didn't manage to dent the tube with such a nasty approach. Tubes often collapse when squeezed with Vise-Grips.

[Historian]

I second A-Canadian's observation " ...Tubes often collapse when squeezed with Vise-Grips. "

A Bon Mot in the toolbox an old machinist in 1950's:

"If it is stuck do not force it
Use a bigger wrench"

Best to all, especially to our most APPRECIATED
moderators.

[quiettime]

Why do you have an adapter?

[T-Rex]

I'm sorry you had troubles, but it sounds as if you were in a rush. A rush to shoot the can and very hasty to "fix".
You should have used some Rockset or anti-seize at the least.
Once you ran into troubles (yeah, why were using an adapter?) you should have married the assembly back the barrel and, then, tried to unscrew it from the can with a strap wrench.

I do not see how any of this is Dead Air's problem. Is NGK to blame when you strip your cylinder head because you improperly install their spark plugs?

[Historian]

Once had to loosen a 1" thin wall cylinder from
a steel mount.

Placed a 2MT ER40* 1" collet on my Atlas 618;

Placed in collet the recalcitrant ( euphemism of what I actually
called it while soaking in a brew of 50% transmission fluid
and 50% acetone outdoors );

Drew in with draw bar through head stock;

Engaged Bull Gear.

The 1" collet gripped deeply and evenly;

Wrapped a wet leather strip around can and then used 2 rubber strap wrenches
180º to each other to prevent twisting.

Easy Peezie.

Did not need to use my 4 foot pipe wrench after all.

* << https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/2mter40.JPG >>