Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

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Glockerbill
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Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Glockerbill »

New to the site.
Ordering a suppressor next week for a Glock 19. Two questions:

- What thread should I get the standard ½-28 or the metric 3.5 x 1 LH. I understand standard is more popular I but have read the metric is superior for durability? Thoughts?

- The retailer I am ordering from cautioned me against attaching and reattaching the suppressor too often. He said it will wear down the threads. My vision of this suppressor originally has been to have a working CCW with threaded barrel protector cap that I would take on and off quite often for attaching and reattaching the suppressor. Is he right and the gun should be a dedicated suppressor weapon and I should leave it alone as much as possible?
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doubloon
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by doubloon »

It's a religious battle.

I prefer RH-1/2x26 to LH-13.5x1 especially if a booster is involved.

I have yet to see a LH thread booster or end cap, there may be some but I don't know about them. Unless you're careful this creates a problem where when you tighten the LH threads you're loosening the RH threads.

It's easy enough to train yourself to avoid the problem but when you hand your suppressor and host to someone who is unfamiliar with the idea of counter facing threads he might think he's doing you a favor when he tightens the suppressor lefty-tighty but doesn't realize he just gifted you a baffle strike because he inadvertently unscrewed the booster from the tube.

Other than that, if your suppressor can be disassembled for cleaning then RH-1/2x28 gives you the option of using it on 22lr in a pinch.

Durability varies with material. What materials are used in the construction of the suppressor you intend to purchase.

If the thread material on the suppressor is aluminum then you are likely looking at some black market flashlight suppressor and you should consider buying a real suppressor from a reputable dealer.
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Glockerbill
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Glockerbill »

Perhaps I was trying to solve a problem that did not exist, but I ended up ordering the metric version, as the threads are more course (not as fine) with less of a chance of stripping. Added benefit of fewer revolutions per inch when attaching, and an o-ring that some say lessons the chance for the suppressor loosening on its own. And if Glock ever comes out with its own threaded barrel, I will be able to use it. Thanks for responses.
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Killerapplesauce
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Killerapplesauce »

Glockerbill wrote:Perhaps I was trying to solve a problem that did not exist, but I ended up ordering the metric version, as the threads are more course (not as fine) with less of a chance of stripping. Added benefit of fewer revolutions per inch when attaching, and an o-ring that some say lessons the chance for the suppressor loosening on its own. And if Glock ever comes out with its own threaded barrel, I will be able to use it. Thanks for responses.
Glock makes a threaded barrel try a google search and you should be able to find one.
hardcase
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by hardcase »

doubloon wrote:It's a religious battle.

I prefer RH-1/2x26 to LH-13.5x1 especially if a booster is involved.

I have yet to see a LH thread booster or end cap, there may be some but I don't know about them. Unless you're careful this creates a problem where when you tighten the LH threads you're loosening the RH threads.

It's easy enough to train yourself to avoid the problem but when you hand your suppressor and host to someone who is unfamiliar with the idea of counter facing threads he might think he's doing you a favor when he tightens the suppressor lefty-tighty but doesn't realize he just gifted you a baffle strike because he inadvertently unscrewed the booster from the tube.

Other than that, if your suppressor can be disassembled for cleaning then RH-1/2x28 gives you the option of using it on 22lr in a pinch.

Durability varies with material. What materials are used in the construction of the suppressor you intend to purchase.

If the thread material on the suppressor is aluminum then you are likely looking at some black market flashlight suppressor and you should consider buying a real suppressor from a reputable dealer.
I bought a handgun with LH threaded barrel. I just assumed it was RH. A real PITA. I would say don't do it. Booster is RH and barrel is LH. Needs Locktite on one or both threads.
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Killerapplesauce
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Killerapplesauce »

I have the Glock 17 with a factory left hand threaded LH-13.5x1 barrel and a Ti Rant 9mm with a 1000 rounds threw it have never had a problem with the booster coming unscrewed or the piston either. I don't know about locktite a suppressor but wouldn't recommend it.
hardcase
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by hardcase »

Killerapplesauce wrote:I have the Glock 17 with a factory left hand threaded LH-13.5x1 barrel and a Ti Rant 9mm with a 1000 rounds threw it have never had a problem with the booster coming unscrewed or the piston either. I don't know about locktite a suppressor but wouldn't recommend it.
I should have been more specific. It is the blue 242 Loctite, not the red. Just a little dab on the side of the barrel thread to booster. I've used it many times and is not that hard to break the seal. As an alternative, I have used two wraps of Teflon tape being very careful not to get it on the mating surface where the booster makes contact with the torque shoulder of the barrel or in some cases the end of the barrel. Liberty doesn't recommend Teflon tape though. You do not want anything that causes the can to tilt at an angle. Teflon tape is a no go for mag dumps too. For the booster to can, hand tightening is enough without anything on the threads.

Heat causes the can to shoot loose from the barrel. It would pay you to check after 4-5 rounds to see if it is still tight.

I have an HK 45 LH that is especially troublesome.
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Joshua@CapitolArmory
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Joshua@CapitolArmory »

You can't buy Glock factory threaded barrels without the gun. They are out there but are FROM guns. There may be a few old leftover ones for sale in places, but it's NOT easy to come by.

I prefer M13 because most of my 9mm handguns are factory threaded Sigs, followed by Glock. So it doesn't make any sense to drop thousands of dollars on barrels to replace it all with 1/2x28. If I had a bunch of M&Ps or no factory glock barrels and didn't enjoy sig... then I would probably go 1/2x28.
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Killerapplesauce
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by Killerapplesauce »

Joshua@CapitolArmory wrote:You can't buy Glock factory threaded barrels without the gun. They are out there but are FROM guns. There may be a few old leftover ones for sale in places, but it's NOT easy to come by.

I prefer M13 because most of my 9mm handguns are factory threaded Sigs, followed by Glock. So it doesn't make any sense to drop thousands of dollars on barrels to replace it all with 1/2x28. If I had a bunch of M&Ps or no factory glock barrels and didn't enjoy sig... then I would probably go 1/2x28.
Funny I bought mine threw Silencerco I have also seen them for sale at other Glock Store websites but i could be wrong. http://palmettostatearmory.com/factory- ... 5x1lh.html this was a while ago.
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Re: Thread selection and attachment of Suppressor

Post by HansohnBrothers »

I prefer the M13.5 due to the O ring that helps keep the can from loosening.
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