DOT 5 brake fluid/silicone oil questions

[mbogo]

I just picked up my YHM Turbo 556 suppressor- it is 17-4 PH stainless steel, with an Inconel blast baffle.

Having read threads on cleaning cans/keeping them clean, I have questions regarding the use of DOT 5 brake fluid:

1) Prior to the first use, do you just plug one end of the can and fill it with the DOT 5 brake fluid, then let it drain out?
1a) Or, once filled, do you plug the other end and shake it?
1b) Do you let it sit for a while, then empty it?

2) Once treated, how long do you wait before firing rounds through the suppressor (drying period)?

3) After firing rounds, is there a preferred cleaning method?

4) Do subsequent treatments with DOT 5 help, or is it just the first one that helps?

5) Finally (I think), is there a p[referred brand of DOT 5 brake fluii, or will any name brand product do?

Thanks,
mbogo

[doubloon]

If you're only going to use it for centerfire ammo then it's not necessary and I doubt any benefit gleaned from coating the inside of the can will p̶r̶o̶b̶a̶b̶l̶y̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶p̶e̶d̶ ̶o̶f̶f̶ ̶a̶f̶t̶e̶r̶ last beyond the first few rounds of 5.56/.223

Someone else may have an opinion on the long term benefit of treating the inside of a rifle can with silicone.

If you plan to shoot 22lr through it then I'd imagine you'd benefit from coating it before each time you shoot 22

For 22 I retreat every time I clean my 22 can but just to be clear it's high-temp silicone oil that matters and it doesn't matter if it comes from brake fluid.

edited, I typed that wrong

[ECCO Machine]

The heat of centerfire rifle rounds is going to vaporize brake fluid, even DOT 5, in short order. Moreover, there's really no need to clean a centerfire rifle can that's used on a centerfire rifle. The carbon deposits are self-limiting due to that same heat and pressure. That's why we can get away with fully welded, fully sealed cans.

.22 LR is another story. They do get filthy, more with lead than carbon, and it would be nigh impossible to get a .22 can up to 500°F without full auto and large magazines.

[mbogo]

Thank you for your replies.

I've got a Q El Camino in process right now, which has stainless steel baffles (and a titanium tube). With that in mind:
`
1) Prior to the first use, do you just plug one end of the can and fill it with the DOT 5 brake fluid, then let it drain out?
1a) Or, once filled, do you plug the other end and shake it?
1b) Do you let it sit for a while, then empty it?

2) Once treated, how long do you wait before firing rounds through the suppressor (drying period)?

3) Finally (I think), is there a preferred brand of DOT 5 brake fluid, or will any name brand product do?

mbogo

[doubloon]

If it's a sealed can it won't matter much.

The high temp silicone oil does not prevent build up it just makes it easier to clean when you take it apart.

For take down cans just treat the baffles like you would with CLP or Rem Oil, wipe it on and let it dry. Take it apart, clean it and do it again.

You don't really have to let it dry, I shoot mine the same day.

3-in-1 oil is good to 500 degrees, a small bottle will last a while for treating baffles.

Any high temp brake fluid will do, look for high temp silicone 500 degrees on the label.

500 ml (16 oz)of high temp brake fluid is $40, 3 oz of 3-in-1 is $6 ... 5 x 6 is $30 ... slightly cheaper than brake fluid

you can get 12 3 oz bottles of 3-in-1 for $28 on Amazon ... 36 oz

[mbogo]

thank you. The Q El Camino disassembles; I will use it with .22LR, .17 HMR, and .22 Magnum. (and a 5.7x28 when I get one).

mboo

[STL/N.E.R.D.S.]

If you dis-asemble the can and heat the components to around 250 +/- then immerse in the silicone, it may assist in the duration of the treatment..

[mbogo]

Is that to promote adhesion or pentration into the micro-pores of the steel?

mbogo

[doubloon]

I'm not sure I'd call them pores, irregularities in the surface certainly but I doubt anything as uniformly distributed or shaped like "pores".

I believe the concept is called silicone contamination where silicone present on the surface of the metal interferes with other adhesions and bonds.

I've tried both heating the baffles in the oven and not and it doesn't seem to make much difference but I didn't shoot 1200 rounds either. It may help I just haven't been able to prove it.

The article at the link below is where a lot of this came from, this is where the heating to 250 degrees is mentioned.

There's really not a lot to overthink on this one, just put the oil on it and shoot it.

Picture and very specific instructions inside to answer all your questions.

Read this =====>>>> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 9c60HjfRxn

[mbogo]

Thank you very much!

mbogo