Page 1 of 1

first silencer build or buy

Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:59 pm
by rbt5050
my first silencer, do I go with the solvent trap or just buy. it will be going on ar-10 243 or ruger rpr 6.5 .

Re: first silencer build or buy

Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2020 11:04 am
by Historian
'Squeaky voice from back of darkened auditorium' : first buy to
enjoy and avoid possible disappointment.

Great heavy duty long lasting cans; buy the BEST up front even if requires
saving, e.g., DeadAir, etc.

Then have fun second go around and machine in leisure.

"Hey squeaky voice, put a sock in it!" :) :)

Re: first silencer build or buy

Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2020 12:16 pm
by fishman
Buy one now and apply to build one now. You'll get your form 1 back before your form 4.

Re: first silencer build or buy

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2020 2:10 pm
by Gibs
If your priority is to have a proven design and don't mind the year plus long wait, then research and buy a commercial can. If you are looking for quick gratification and have access to some basic tools as well as some basic skills using said tools then go Form 1 build. Wait time for approval is approximately 30-ish days on your stamp. While waiting on the approval you can source and buy your parts. My current build will be complete from date of filing for tax stamp to being able to shoot my can at right around 90 days. YMMV

Re: first silencer build or buy

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 5:57 pm
by Historian
If you go the route of building your own can seriously
consider purchasing "Geissele* suppressor alignment rods."

It is eye opening when this was done on some .22 pistols
with 'home-brew' cans to discover that the can concentricity
was so way off that the rod was touching the exit rim. No
Pelosi!

'After action analysis' determined some of the following
culprits, aside from lack of talent and lathe/drill
press slop:

1. Example on .22 rimfire pistol with perfect
professional barrels.

When for example cutting a ½" x 28 TPI thread in end-cap the
initial hole was off center due to misalignment of
chuck in tail stock holding the drill.

2. Some of the holes were not concentric with
the lands/grooves, hole too large due to oversized drill
( e.g., using a 31/64th inch drill) used, resulting a noticeable wobble.

As length of can went from 5" up to 9.5" it was startling bad;
can reaching target before bullet.

3. Correct final drill for tapping is to use a sharpened
15/32" = .46875" , drill. This falls in the middle of the
accepted Min-Max in Machineries Handbook for ½" x 28 thread.
( Use Castrol Moly when tapping )

For example, start with ¼" drill; then 29/64"; then 15/32".

For those mathematically oriented the formula
for determining the correct drill for tapping
a hole:

Final-Drill-Size = Goal-Hole-Diameter - (.01299 x percent-of-fit-desired) / TPI.

Try it using Goal-Hole = .500"; TPI = 28; fit-percentage = 60

Ans, .4698" Machineries Handbook range.



* << https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkxf6Qr3bUw >>

<< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktwt-6J-Zro >>

Re: first silencer build or buy

Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:21 am
by webuser_123509420
If this bill goes through, and takes effect immediately, buy. If not, then you're looking at a likely 1 year wait time, with up to 2 years not being outside of the realm of possibility. So that's just a decision you have to make for yourself.