If you go the route of building your own can seriously
consider purchasing "
Geissele* suppressor alignment rods."
It is eye opening when this was done on some .22 pistols
with 'home-brew' cans to discover that the can concentricity
was so way off that the rod was touching the exit rim. No
Pelosi!
'After action analysis' determined some of the following
culprits, aside from lack of talent and lathe/drill
press slop:
1. Example on .22 rimfire pistol with perfect
professional barrels.
When for example cutting a
½" x 28 TPI thread in end-cap the
initial hole was off center due to misalignment of
chuck in tail stock holding the drill.
2. Some of the holes were
not concentric with
the lands/grooves, hole too large due to oversized drill
( e.g., using a 31/64th inch drill) used, resulting a noticeable wobble.
As length of can went from 5" up to 9.5" it was startling bad;
can reaching target before bullet.
3. Correct final drill for tapping is to use a sharpened
15/32" = .46875" , drill. This falls in the middle of the
accepted Min-Max in
Machineries Handbook for ½" x 28 thread.
( Use Castrol Moly when tapping )
For example, start with ¼" drill; then 29/64"; then 15/32".
For those mathematically oriented the formula
for determining the correct drill for tapping
a hole:
Final-Drill-Size =
Goal-Hole-Diameter -
(.01299 x percent-of-fit-desired) / TPI.
Try it using
Goal-Hole =
.500";
TPI =
28;
fit-percentage =
60
Ans, .4698" Machineries Handbook range.
* <<
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkxf6Qr3bUw >>
<<
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