The world's most perfect 22 suppressor....pics

1928A1 · Post by **1928A1** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 11:39 am

caver101 wrote:I don't buy that excuse.

Neither do I. 99 people out of 100 will get it right if they have any instructions at all. 75 out of 100 will get it right with no instruction.

mpallett · Post by **mpallett** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:02 pm

1928A1 wrote:
caver101 wrote:I don't buy that excuse.
Neither do I. 99 people out of 100 will get it right if they have any instructions at all. 75 out of 100 will get it right with no instruction.

Never over estimate the intelligence of the American public.

caver101 · Post by **caver101** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:22 pm

rsilvers wrote:Well, I visited a huge NFA collector who had over 200 machineguns. He invited me to shoot his Greasegun with can. I opened it up, and had to show him that he put the baffles in backwards. He had no idea. You are overestimating that anyone can/will put the can together correctly.

Just because you have money does not make you smart.

I am with 1918 on this (did I just type that

)

Post by **silencertalk** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:30 pm

I did not say he had a lot of money. I said he had a lot of guns and is a total 'gun guy' and he put them in wrong.

This is why AAC is doing the Prodigy, to make a take-apart can which solves the problems of other take-apart cans.

caver101 · Post by **caver101** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:37 pm

200 MGs is a lot of money. Even if they were Mac's that is still over 1/2 million dollars.....in toys.

SilentMike · Post by **SilentMike** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:56 pm

Getting it back together properly is not so much the concern. Getting it apart after someone has exceed the recommended cleaning interval by 3x is the problem. The resulting damage and destruction of parts is why manufacturers seal cans. Take the Prodigy, for example. It has been engineered from the get-go to be as "user friendly" (idiot-resistant) as possible. That said, even with the modular, two-piece design of the Prodigy, if the right "user" exceeds the recommended cleaning interval, it will be difficult to get the can apart. By making the Prodigy so easy to pull apart into it's two components, we hope users will feel inclined to pull it apart (it comes apart with no tools) even if they are in the middle of a Saturday afternoon brick of .22's. By pulling it apart, even if you don't do a full cleaning, you will break apart the carbon and gunk that can easily weld baffles to the inside of the tube.

Mike/AAC

ElDuderino · Post by **ElDuderino** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:57 pm

Considering all the posts on this site about cleaning sealed .22 suppressors and how frustrated owners get with maintining them, I think it is time that more manufacturers realize that sealed aluminum suppressors are not the way to go. I think that given the chance to either disassemble their sealed can or shoot it until they have to send it off to the class II, most would pick the former. Once I bought my first sealed .22 can, I promised I would never buy another again unless I can take it apart. I am sure a lot if people feel this way.

monkeytoys · Post by **monkeytoys** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 1:35 pm

wreckdiver wrote:How much does AAC charge to rebuild a "filled up" Pilot? I bought the Pilot with the understanding that the lifetime warranty covered rebuilds for a nominal fee. If I do my part to maintain it, as long as it will fixed for a reaonable fee, who cares if it comes apart?

can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?

Freddy2 · Post by **Freddy2** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:00 pm

monkeytoys wrote:
wreckdiver wrote:How much does AAC charge to rebuild a "filled up" Pilot? I bought the Pilot with the understanding that the lifetime warranty covered rebuilds for a nominal fee. If I do my part to maintain it, as long as it will fixed for a reaonable fee, who cares if it comes apart?
can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?

A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.
AAC

cyclone72 · Post by **cyclone72** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:25 pm

FreddyAAC wrote:
monkeytoys wrote:
wreckdiver wrote:How much does AAC charge to rebuild a "filled up" Pilot? I bought the Pilot with the understanding that the lifetime warranty covered rebuilds for a nominal fee. If I do my part to maintain it, as long as it will fixed for a reaonable fee, who cares if it comes apart?
can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?
A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.
AAC

you guys are awesome.now if we coud just travel through time a couple of years when my Pilot would need the upgrade and Ill send it in

tallpaul · Post by **tallpaul** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:32 pm

caver101 wrote:200 MGs is a lot of money. Even if they were Mac's that is still over 1/2 million dollars.....in toys.

I doubt the collection was totally aquired in the last 10 years... it used to be cheap to get into and stay in the class three game. stens and macs were not 4000 and up then

I know I wish I woulda poped for a few more when I got into it back when.

wreckdiver · Post by **wreckdiver** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:00 pm

FreddyAAC wrote:
monkeytoys wrote:
wreckdiver wrote:How much does AAC charge to rebuild a "filled up" Pilot? I bought the Pilot with the understanding that the lifetime warranty covered rebuilds for a nominal fee. If I do my part to maintain it, as long as it will fixed for a reaonable fee, who cares if it comes apart?
can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?
A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.

AAC

What kind of turn around time is involved in a rebuild? $150 isn't bad, but certainly not cheap if it needs to be done every couple of years.

ArevaloSOCOM · Post by **ArevaloSOCOM** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:03 pm

150 bucks.

Wow.

I'm sure I'd pay it if it was built up enough......

cyclone72 · Post by **cyclone72** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:06 pm

wreckdiver wrote:
FreddyAAC wrote:
monkeytoys wrote: can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?
A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.

AAC
What kind of turn around time is involved in a rebuild? $150 isn't bad, but certainly not cheap if it needs to be done every couple of years.

FA will fill it up quicker,but if you SA it alot it will take a lot longer but that depends on how much you use it I used 2 years as a general guideline

chrismartin · Post by **chrismartin** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:32 pm

FreddyAAC wrote:
monkeytoys wrote:
wreckdiver wrote:How much does AAC charge to rebuild a "filled up" Pilot? I bought the Pilot with the understanding that the lifetime warranty covered rebuilds for a nominal fee. If I do my part to maintain it, as long as it will fixed for a reaonable fee, who cares if it comes apart?
can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?
A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.
AAC

Also, just FYI, from SWR:

SWR policy is that the Warlock will be rebuilt once for free [due to lead build up]. After that it will be rebuilt for a nominal fee, typically $75 per rebuild.

Rgray · Post by **Rgray** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:30 pm

1928A1 wrote:This guy I know decided that he needed to take apart a sealed up can and with the help of one of the best in the business, the already great AAC Pilot just became the world's most perfect 22 suppressor.

The Pilot you can take apart and clean!

No, its not mine, but I wish it was. He says its just as quiet and it can be cleaned by manual dissassembly.

Its has to be the world's most perfect 22 suppressor

wrench looks just like mine

Rgray · Post by **Rgray** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:39 pm

rsilvers wrote:Well, I visited a huge NFA collector who had over 200 machineguns. He invited me to shoot his Greasegun with can. I opened it up, and had to show him that he put the baffles in backwards. He had no idea. You are overestimating that anyone can/will put the can together correctly.

So why not put instructions with the can to show how it comes apart? Lots of people are very mechanically inclined and would have zero problems. The rest can either read or pay someone else to do it for them. Or buy a new can.

I would go a step further and say that maybe offer 2 versions. One that is user serviceable and one that is not. Bet you that you sell more of the one that is user serviceable.
Just my opinion...

ArevaloSOCOM · Post by **ArevaloSOCOM** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:44 pm

chrismartin wrote:
FreddyAAC wrote:
monkeytoys wrote: can anyone advise the cost to rebuild an AAC pilot?
A pilot rebuild which is needed as the result of lead build up will cost $150.

The above assumes that the excessive lead build up is not the result of full auto fire. If full auto fire is determined to be the reason for lead build up then the cost of repair is half of retail cost.

Freddy Thompson Jr.
AAC
Also, just FYI, from SWR:

SWR policy is that the Warlock will be rebuilt once for free [due to lead build up]. After that it will be rebuilt for a nominal fee, typically $75 per rebuild.

I knew about the "free" rebuild, but I didn't know it was only the first time.

Thanks.

The "free" rebuild" + the way it prefeormed for "silencertests2005" made me pick SWR for my .22lr can.

Sid Post · Post by **Sid Post** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:04 pm

This whole thread is very interesting. I guess its good that I can have my can modified to be user serviceable if I fill'er up with lead. On the other hand, since it's all stainless I can use more agressive cleaning then I could with aluminum.

Post by **silencertalk** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:08 pm

I have never filled a .22 can with lead. I don't shoot as much as 1928.

Tyris · Post by **Tyris** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:09 pm

How do you disolve the glue (loctite?) that secures the thread-mount to the can's body?

-T

Post by **silencertalk** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:14 pm

Heat the can to 500 degrees I think. I am just guessing, I am not sure what AAC does and what I said might destroy the can.

Tyris · Post by **Tyris** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:16 pm

Better question: 1928a1, how did your friend disolve the loctite on that can?

-T

1928A1 · Post by **1928A1** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:28 pm

Tyris · Post by **Tyris** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:35 pm

Thanks. I'll see if I can get the end cap notched if I ever have cleaning problems and notice a weight gain.

I've noted that each range session my .22 steel can gains about 10 grams.

It started life at 230g and ends up around 240g after a range session. After soaking in acetone and mineral spirits, freezing, and physical agitation I can get it back to 230g. So far, so good.

-T

The world's most perfect 22 suppressor....pics

Re: The world's most perfect 22 suppressor....pics