PB blaster?

shotgundrums · Post by **shotgundrums** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 3:35 pm

I've got a stuck endcap on my TAC65. Anyone ever used PB blaster for a relative situation?

jbabb · Post by **jbabb** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:47 pm

I have used PB Blaster to not much avail with a stuck Trident LCD

I put the take-down tool in a vice and hand-crank the suppressor when my Spectre gets too full

twzadms · Post by **twzadms** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:02 pm

Not great, have had more luck with kroil, but it is easier to get pb. Used to soak my evo in it but it did not really change things (did it as I always shoot that can wet)

pneumagger · Post by **pneumagger** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:06 pm

Try heating it up in an oven or hitting the outside of the tube with a torch.
The expansion of the tube should exceed the volumetric expansion of the endcap and loosen things up.

crowbuster · Post by **crowbuster** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:12 pm

Padded Vice Jaws from Sears are one of the best tools I ever bought. Magnets hold them in place on any vice. Red, soft, durable synthetic material with a vertical groove already formed in each side. Slip them in, line the groove on each side up, insert can, carefully tighten and .... the body of the can will not spin. They put almost 360 degrees of friction on the can. Just don't get carried away with the cranking.

midcountygunshop · Post by **midcountygunshop** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:42 pm

pneumagger wrote:Try heating it up in an oven or hitting the outside of the tube with a torch.
The expansion of the tube should exceed the volumetric expansion of the endcap and loosen things up.

Could do the trick, but be careful as it's not hard to take the heat treat out of aluminum. Then you could ruin your can. Take down tool held in vice and a strap wrench on the tube should get it.

shotgundrums · Post by **shotgundrums** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:46 pm

Thanks guys. Yeah, I tried putting the spanner in a vice and twisting it with a strapy. I also let the gun smith take a wack at it....nothing. The smith told me to get some Kroil. Mentioned he uses it to remove seized choke tubes... I saw PB blaster, and I've heard it a good one. I'm gonna let it sit for a week.

You mentioned heating it. I've got a heat gun that has a 700ish setting and then a 900-something. If I did heat it up, what temp would I have to heat it to get it back to original hardness? Hmmmm

Josh

Lathebuilder · Post by **Lathebuilder** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 1:38 pm

shotgundrums wrote:Thanks guys. Yeah, I tried putting the spanner in a vice and twisting it with a strapy. I also let the gun smith take a wack at it....nothing. The smith told me to get some Kroil. Mentioned he uses it to remove seized choke tubes... I saw PB blaster, and I've heard it a good one. I'm gonna let it sit for a week.

You mentioned heating it. I've got a heat gun that has a 700ish setting and then a 900-something. If I did heat it up, what temp would I have to heat it to get it back to original hardness? Hmmmm
Josh

I've tried PB Blaster as well with poor results. It seems to sit on the surface and look cool but does not penetrate the seams very well.

Buy a can of Kroil and get a can free direct from Kano Labs: call them at 800-311-3374 and ask for the Google Deal. Two king size aerosol cans shipped direct to you for $12. Worth every dollar.

I also use the straight liquid form for more delicate items I do not want to soak with the aerosol. The half pint cans are great and last a long time. I bought my first half pint can from a gunsmith years ago and I am still using it up. Bought two as a backup, may never get into the second can.

Just used it to unstick 1/4-20 rusty steel bolts in a threaded aluminum housing that has been sitting outside for literally 40 years. Prior to Kroiling it and waiting an hour I would have broken off the bolts before they let go.

On your other question: aluminum is not heat treated the way steel is. To anneal it completely it is heated and quenched. Speed of the quench is not as critical as steel.

Depending on the alloy (some only work harden), to get it "hard" again requires an artificial aging process at a particular elevated temperature and a controlled return to room temperature.

Nuclear · Post by **Nuclear** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:43 pm

Never tried Kroil, but PB Blaster works wonders on stuck auto bolts and nuts. Stinks a bit though. Haven't tried to use it to disassemble my suppressor, just greased the threads before I use it, no problems (except for when I used anti-seize - that crap didn't work).

silverbulletexpress · Post by **silverbulletexpress** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:05 pm

I think Kroil would be best for this. I have soaked stuff in ATF and had pretty good luck. Whatever take your time don't get in a rush a screw it up like I would.

shotgundrums · Post by **shotgundrums** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:07 pm

Cool thanks a lot guys

hairy78 · Post by **hairy78** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:27 pm

AggieRotorHead wrote:I have used PB Blaster to not much avail with a stuck Trident LCD

Had the same experience.

falfan · Post by **falfan** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 5:41 am

I cannot say how well kroil would work for cleaning a silencer, but I know kroil is the best penetrant I have ever used. I'm a millwright and use the stuff all of the time and have a couple gallons at the house, it works. We had a coupling stuck on a shaft, after heating coupling multiple times and trying to pull it off, we let the shaft hang upside down and soaked the coupling with kroil. The next morning we came in and the coupling was laying on the floor.

duey1267 · Post by **duey1267** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:21 pm

I got to say that KROIL is probably the best thing for this. It can be a real PITA to find at your local hardware store but if you call them direct they have great customer service/ Good Luck