Expriences with accuracy after threading/mounting supressor

[BungieCord]

I have a .308 can that I use on ARs and an AK (all of which already were threaded, natch). I'm thinking about threading the barrels on some hunting rifles -- which have a more serious role than my mall ninja toys -- and mounting the can on them.

Those of you who've done it, do you generally find it has any impact on accuracy when you thread the barrel and mount a can? I ask because I figure it has to have some effect on barrel harmonics, and I'd hate to spoil the accuracy of either of the rifles I have in mind. Do you ever find you have to alter the load with a can versus without?

[700PSS]

Rifles with "sporting" type or tapered barrels, such as most hunting rifles, will tend to have greater POI shift than shorter, stiff/heavy/bull barrels. Adding the weight of the silencer will not harm your accuracy. It will likely tighten up your groups. It's just that the "whip" of longer, tapered barrels is more prominent and POI shift is the most noticeable issue. You may wish to cut such a barrel back to reduce that "whip" effect and offer a more solid platform.

One rifle on which I have used my AAC 762-SD is a Remington 700 ADL .243 w/22" barrel. It experiences a 3.5 MOA shift down, with the silencer attached. My other rifles typically have a < 1 MOA shift down. But they are all either shorter or heavier barrels. I could cut it back to about 17" to eliminate the greater portion of the POI shift, but it's primarily a light deer rifle that is used unsuppressed for the most part and I don't want to lose the extra velocity I get from the longer barrel.

[mgraham112]

I stuck my phantom 762qd on my browning 308 with an adapter for the boss threads. My poi shift with suppressor was 3.5 moa down and 1 moa right. Velocities were dead on with or without the suppressor and accuracy is the same out to 900 yd.

[BungieCord]

I'm not deterred by shift in POI so long as consistency isn't reduced. I figured hanging that extra weight out on the end of the barrel had to have some affect on harmonics.

Thanks for the help, fellas!

[Wrench_V10]

My CZ 452 gained accuracy. But it did it with a different load. I was really disappointed when I first got everything back and put together, the group size almost doubled. So I re-tested all the loads I had originally tested and found one that shot great. And it was one that did not shoot well before the shorting, threading, and suppressor. Obviously a rimfire is different then what your looking at, but if you have issues with it experiment with it.

[Hoop]

Be sure the smith who threads the barrels is reputable and does this on a regular basis. You do not want someone just chucking the barrels up in a lathe using a 3 jaw chuck and center on the muzzle and going to town on your barrel.

Ask questions about methods when threading the barrel. The best method is to indicate on the bore as you would when chambering a rifle barrel while holding it in special fixtures.

This way the bore is turning true in the lathe where the cutting is performed. A smith who regualrly installs muzzle brakes might get away with a 3 jaw chuck and center. However when you hang a 9" suppressor in front of the muzzle you want the bullet to pass perfectly centered through it.

[Wrench_V10]

I haven't used them myself, but my recommendation would be to go with Tornado Tech. I used Aquila for mine and was not happy. I had the action bedded while it was out to be shortened and threaded. He chipped my stock, left bedding compound on my barrel and the side of my stock, and did not touch up the bluing where the barrel was cut and threaded. I will not be shipping anything back to him.

[chp5]

Be sure the smith who threads the barrels is reputable and does this on a regular basis. You do not want someone just chucking the barrels up in a lathe using a 3 jaw chuck and center on the muzzle and going to town on your barrel.

Ask questions about methods when threading the barrel. The best method is to indicate on the bore as you would when chambering a rifle barrel while holding it in special fixtures.

This way the bore is turning true in the lathe where the cutting is performed. A smith who regualrly installs muzzle brakes might get away with a 3 jaw chuck and center. However when you hang a 9" suppressor in front of the muzzle you want the bullet to pass perfectly centered through it.

This is good advice. I had my regular smith thread a barrel and it was not concentric to the bore. Whoever does the threading must be intimately familiar with threading for cans.

[JohnInNH]

my Old Cyclone tightened my groups nicely.

My new Cyclone-k I am getting about .41 *5* shot groups at 100 yards and that is not with prepped brass or match primers. Factory primed Winchester brass. IMR 4064 powder and Nosler J4 168's

I have posted targets on the forum.

I just posted an accuracy review of my Evo-9 in the AAC forum. 5 shot groups that I can cover with a quarter at 18' 2 handed unsupported standing. G19 KKM barrel.

My Tactical rifles did not suffer a loss of accuracy after being threaded. You should have a thread protector If accuracy is paramount than a thread on silencer is my suggestion. My 260 Remington is still the .3 MOA gun it always has been.

I am nervous about threading my Gen 1 FNSPR as it is my most accurate rifle I own. But If I could get it threaded by a GOOD shop and the crown was not touched I would be OK doing it. I would have a steel thread protector made that matched the contour to insure no change in harmonics.

[Hoop]

my Old Cyclone tightened my groups nicely.


I am nervous about threading my Gen 1 FNSPR as it is my most accurate rifle I own. But If I could get it threaded by a GOOD shop and the crown was not touched I would be OK doing it. I would have a steel thread protector made that matched the contour to insure no change in harmonics.

There would be no reason to even touch the crown when threading the muzzle if done the way I described. It most likely has a chrome bore anyway.

I would say go for it and get the thread protector made so it matches the contour of the barrel.

[cdmillig]

the .22 silencer i got never had any poi diffs...however, the 9mm i got had a wicked 10" poi diff at 20 yrds...all i had to do was adjust the piston though and now it's like it's not on there at all.