Cerakote on a Suppresor

[c_bass16]

Ok, so I did up my YHM Phantom QD in some desert sand cerakote and LOVE IT, awesome finish, very durable and the engraving on the YHM can still shows up plain as day.

My question is, how do you go about painting a suppressor that does not have deep enough grooves? Checked out my Trident9 at my dealers a while back, and it is clearly laser etched, but not with a deep enough cut that paint wouldnt completely cover it.

I have seen a GemtechHVT that was re-done in black cerakote and you can barely see the factory marks under neityh, but I dont want to spend the $$ to get it done, and have it end up illegal. I'm not trying to hide or cover the info, I just want the can to match the gun and gear.

thoughts?

[WIDOWMAKER]

I’m having the same concerns; want to Cerakote an AAC .45 EVO and AAC Tirant45 but the laser etching looks too shallow for the process and I don’t want to obscure the SN on the can just in case I’m stopped by LE and they need to verify SN match with ATF Form 4. I don’t need that kind of trouble and need to save my money for more weapons anyway. Individual doing Cerakote has told me that he’s Cerakoted AAC cans in the past with laser etching and it was not an issue but I don’t want him to touch the can if there’s a risk of obscuring the SN on it. I’m still skeptical or maybe it’s just my ignorance with the Cerakote technique? I’ve also seen a GEMTECH can Cerakoted in Flat Dark Earth and SN is clearly visible as well. By the way, cost quoted for Cerakote on both cans = $100.00/$50.00 each can. Is this a RIP? Thanks in advance for any advice.

“Emotions are a nuisance during business hours, and all his hours are business hours.”-Anonymous

[mike_0120]

$50 a can is the same price I paid.

Hi-Heat Cerakote.

[c_bass16]

thats a fair price i'd say but consider this.

a portable compressor for $60-$80
a brush and hose for $30
one container of cerakote for <$40 (that will do 2 suppressors and AT LEAST another rifle and pistol)

Doing a suppressor by yourself is a lot easier than doing a rifle and IMO, it's good practice. Like I said, I have already done my YHM Phantom, so the DOI plan is not a bad option at all.

AND YET, all of this is to no avail, since I dont want to take the chance covering or blasting off my serial number.

[Wahnsinn]

How shallow is the etching? Won't take any wax in it if you rub over, then dig the wax out later?

Or maybe melt some wax and use a thin brush to paint the necessary lettering?

[c_bass16]

i thought about that, but it's literally like the traditional laser etch. It's more of white letters burned onto a black surface. Might be some texture, but no depth to the etching at all.

[c_bass16]

Still no thoughts eh? Would it be ok to go over it and if there are visibility issues, laser engrave the exact info back on?

Any BATFE lurkers wanna advise?

[poizzin]

cut very clean piece of painters tape over the serial number area spray and remove. you will have a small black box with perfect serial number in it.

[Chondro]

I can't find either the post here now or the link..I had the same question and someone had given the link to a modelers type clay..just rub that in the serial number first then spray and then use a dental pic to remove the clay..Even had very bright neon colors to make it easier to see..It was suggested practicing first..so it appears to have a small learning curve..

[c_bass16]

cut very clean piece of painters tape over the serial number area spray and remove. you will have a small black box with perfect serial number in it.

thats absolutely NOT what I want to do...however, It may be what I need to do. I will probably remove it and give it a very light dusting sot the black box isn't quite as bolt and yet the SN will still show through with striking clarity.

hopefully someone else will have some input, but I will just use this as my best bet. the whole thing with putty or clay or wax or whatever just doesnt seem precise enough fo me. these markings can barely be felt with your fingers.

Might just have to call up SWR and see what they have to say.

[Bowen1911]

use gunkote or durabake. they work really well and don't seem to take up any thickness. as long as you prep it well, it turns out awesome

[c_bass16]

I've used all three and cerakote is clearly the superior, in my opinion and to industry stats.

I've got a fairly good idea for the whole thing, I will post up some pics when it's done.

[Chondro]

Here's the link..have to spray one and was looking for something else and came across it..
http://www.bindersart.com/store/product ... -GRN-YLLW/

[Jer]

This may be a very stupid suggestion, legally because I simply don't know - but why not take the can to a trophy shop and have them deepen the engraving marks - that way when it is painted, the markings will always show up?

Sorry about the necro on the thread - but I'm curious.

[doubloon]

Depending on the wall thickness and what constitutes "deepen" you could be setting yourself up for rupture or fragmentation.

If you want the engraving on your suppressor enhanced I would suggest seeking out a SOT experienced in the manufacture and modification of suppressors. One that will tell you it's an OK idea or not and capable of explaining the difference.

[joe0121]

thats a fair price i'd say but consider this.

a portable compressor for $60-$80
a brush and hose for $30
one container of cerakote for <$40 (that will do 2 suppressors and AT LEAST another rifle and pistol)

Doing a suppressor by yourself is a lot easier than doing a rifle and IMO, it's good practice. Like I said, I have already done my YHM Phantom, so the DOI plan is not a bad option at all.

AND YET, all of this is to no avail, since I don't want to take the chance covering or blasting off my serial number.

Do you have experience with cerakote? The part need to be sand blasted, soaked in acetone and heated to 300 degree to gas off any remaining contaminates. 50 bucks is cheap for a quality cerakote job as even for a small object like a suppressor will take in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours of labor even with the air cure high temp stuff.


I am tooling up now to do cerakote for myself and to do it correctly and using mostly home built tools the initial cost is in excess of $500 bucks.

[doubloon]

If you try to use the oven in your house it kinda pisses off your wife and you may not get the consistent heat source you're looking for.

[joe0121]

If you try to use the oven in your house it kinda pisses off your wife and you may not get the consistent heat source you're looking for.

LOL no kidding. I bought a couple cheap toaster ovens for small parts but I need to get a temp probe to verify their thermostats. I also need to get a decent respirator.

[Emilio]

$50 a can?

I use a air brush and can coat anything lightly marked. Spray cans you at the cans mercy and much waste.

Have a large convection toaster oven in the garage ($15 like new/ clean) can even find them free on CL, can find realish airbrush on sale at HF for $10-$15

If you do more than 2-3 things get airbrush and learn to use it! So handy on many things ( even car tu and plastics.)

[Emilio]

use gunkote or durabake. they work really well and don't seem to take up any thickness. as long as you prep it well, it turns out awesome

Yes, GK works great on cans, the easiest to use ( with air brush) very strong when done right. Can pour extra back, no thick hardener , cheap!. One of my favorites to work with.

Have done things with just a degrease ( no aluminum oxide or bead blast) and held up great and look like glass.