*UPDATE: ITS OUT***Round stuck inside 308 can, what now?!

[Blaubart]

...there is one magnetic part perhaps on the round stuck within, that perhaps, just perhaps, with a small telescopic magnet and some careful juggling prove the solution.

I wasn't even thinking of the primer. Good point.

I suppose much would depend on what kind of metals are used in the silencer. Some stainless is ferrous and some is ferric. Ferrous metals are not attracted to magnets. Even if it's ferric, you might still find a way to get a magnet in there without getting hung up on the baffles.

[drycan]

Round is made of copper/brass which are not magnetic.

This is a $400 can i dont think it would be wise to invest into hundreds of dollars of cameras/electro magnets/robots which in the end wont do anything.

Local smith will bore the baffles for $150 and with that we will have way more clerance, will see what dave at liverty says. Can is welded on end, just needs to be cut open and pressed out. Out of all the crazy ideas this seems to be the only one that will work in the real world.

[drycan]

between 5 people trying to get this thing out we probably have 40 hours invested into it, if i try all the ideas on this thread it will take me another 100 hours at which point i could build my own can. F*ck it time to cut.

[Libertarian_Geek]

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7073426.pdf

[Greg Kulbick]

Have we still not heard how it got in there? No pics? WTF?

[Trex]

Ok, it would appear that the primer is not of the magnetic variety, unfortunate. The commercial primers here are generally of the steel variety and can be picked up with a large magnet on a stick, saves bending over when collecting the brass back for reloading.

The suggestion was a telescopic pick up magnet because should be able to feed it through the baffles, a magnet on a string just would stick to the suppressor.

come in various diameters and lengths, some even have a hinge near the head.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Professional-Telesc ... 2559f9801d

The last thing I would want to do is enlarge the baffle holes, may as well fling the silencer away!

Figure out which pair of baffles it lies between, drill a hole 10mm or so, extract cartridge through hole. Depending on suppressor wall thickness, tap the tube wall with a fine thread and install a round head/cap socket/bolt, weld if felt required. Or just weld in plug.

Prior to doing that install the silencer on most used firearm and try to ensure that socket head cap/bolt is on the bottom so less noticeable.

Before doing the above I would spend a couple of weeks investigating other possible methods, you may yet get lucky...



edit to add: am thinking the above may not be a good idea, with your luck when drilling you may hit the slanted baffle, if going that route best take it to the smith who has a borescope, so he can check the baffle alignment and which chamber the cartridge is in prior to mill/drill. Liberty sounds a good option as well.

[drycan]

The diagram shows 3 baffles there are actually 4 baffles plus the blast baffle.

Nothing in the round is magnetic i dont see how discussing magnets further helps...

as for pics, you want to see a old scratched up 308 can?

[wi75]

vote for string and superglue again. ie dip the end of your string in super glue. Drop it down to the .380 rd and let it sit on top of it and dry for 20min. Then pull it out and use some sort of really long skinny needle from the other end to help motivate it to move in the proper path.

[drycan]

waterhose method left me soaking wet, no go..

melting point of copper/brass is right around 2000f and chromoly is 2600 its too risky to heat the can to that i think...

i dont think superglue will work as the round is black and soaked with carbon/lead from rattling around i doubt anything will stick to it long enough.

i wish i would have cut the dam thing open from the getgo

[urban assault]

Give the suppressor to a three year-old kid and tell him there is a "magic marble" hiding inside, but sternly warn him he's not allowed to play with it... then leave the room.

He'll have it out in less than a minute, guaranteed!



-urban

[Trex]

I mentioned the magnet again because apparently your not the only one that has been in this situation!!!

Maybe of use to others.

Of course I could just STFU.....

[drycan]

Also from a bit of research nitric acid will dissolve the whole thing within 10 minutes BUT i cant seem to find any info on what it will do to chromoly. Any chemists (real ones please) on the board?

[SRM]

Also from a bit of research nitric acid will dissolve the whole thing within 10 minutes BUT i cant seem to find any info on what it will do to chromoly. Any chemists (real ones please) on the board?

It wont do the can any favors. It will pit the steel.
I`d give it to a three year old and the marble thing!

[Fastflt1]

Give the suppressor to a three year-old kid and tell him there is a "magic marble" hiding inside, but sternly warn him he's not allowed to play with it... then leave the room.

He'll have it out in less than a minute, guaranteed!



-urban

+1 That's funny.

[jackson]

just google rubiks cube.there is a three year old girl that solved the puzzle in 114 seconds.maybe her mother will let you borrow her.

[WasDustyJacket]

I skipped from page 1 to the end, so someone may have already mentioned it.

Take the round out the FRONT.

Don't the bore holes get larger as you go rear to front?

I like the aquariom pump/air hose idea. Use some grease for a good seal. Or maybe superglue on the end of a rod (be careful not to touch a baffle)

[SwampGator]

Detonate the primer, make that SOB two smaller pieces.

Put it in the oven, that should do it.

Probably won't be enough force to damage the can any more than cutting it in half.

ETA, I see this has been proposed. The brass will likely expand a bit, or blossom out. still, it may make it easier to force the shards/bent brass out with a dowel rod.

good luck

[Hush]

It’s about right in the middle of the can ,2 baffles away from the back/thread end.

If your sure of its placement in the can and nothing else worked get a dremel and cut a window in the can wall and weld it shut after its out, it won't look pretty but it will still work.

[doubloon]

It’s about right in the middle of the can ,2 baffles away from the back/thread end.

If your sure of its placement in the can and nothing else worked get a dremel and cut a window in the can wall and weld it shut after its out, it won't look pretty but it will still work.

the "Hush Hole II"

I wouldn't worry about superglue on a baffle, that s--t should burn right off with some use. If it sticks to the wrong place cut it and try again.

I would think some alcohol or contact cleaner could get enough grime off the primer for some superglue to stick but the "Hush Hole II" might make it a conversation piece.

[GlocksInMySocks]

turn it into a desk lamp

[Tram]

Take a dowel and put a dab of hot glue on one end, ease it into the can and let the glue touch the round and slowly ease it out..

If you get glue on anything "important" you can soak it in alcohol and the hot glue will let go and you should be able to get any excess glue out..

[urban assault]

Take a dowel and put a dab of hot glue on one end, ease it into the can and let the glue touch the round and slowly ease it out..

If you get glue on anything "important" you can soak it in alcohol and the hot glue will let go and you should be able to get any excess glue out..

I'm sorry my brother, but did you fall down the stupid stairs and hit ever single step?



How is he supposed to get this dowel with the rapidly cooling blob of hot glue on the end thru the baffle stack without A, smearing it off on one of the baffles, or B, once it somehow gets there intact contact the cartridge given that it is still laying trapped behind the baffle wall? And then withdraw it at a perfectly straight angle too?

See why this doesn't make much sense now.

I am starting to agree that the easiest way to do this is just use a drill with a hole bit, pull the cartridge out, and have a decent welder use the steel piece from the hole bit to fill the hole up.

It can be done well enough that only the OP would know what happened.

-urban

[David Hineline]

EDM

Just like AAC does the final bore with EDM, get the cartridge in the bore push through the edm, repeat as needed until you burn away all of the cartridge.

[doubloon]

I vote for EDM!

Slice that thing like a bologna and let the pieces fall through. EDM has the be the ultimate risk/reward solution proposed so far.

[starlingstalker]

My earlier post had the assumption that the round was out of the bore such that the round was not visible with a colonoscopy look around indicated. If it is wedged in the bore, cinch the can down rock steady vertically in a vise on a table below a drill press and chuck up a 8 to 12 inch high end cobalt Greenlee or Bosh 3/16'' to 1/4'' drill bit that is commonly used for through wall drilling from depot or lowes. The OD of the bit could be varied for a bit of flexibility or lack thereof and the RPMs tweaked for best digging. Some of those specialty bits are 8' long for vertical wall drilling and cable fishing but depending how far below it, is just measure, buy a new sharp bit and punch through and fishhook the hole with an undersized sharpend round piece of barstock internally to retrieve.
Already been there, major done that w/ 9mm wedged in a seating die but if the round detonates at least it will rupture without brass support, mild pressures hopefully to be self contained to a degree. So safety glasses and the best heavy insulated Lincoln welders welders gloves that I handle my parrots with to clip with are a sure thing. Skinny straight kelly hemostats would fish out ragged shards of brass/lead and such or they could be dipped. And GOOD luck. starlingstalker