i am sure this has been asked before but i can't find the answer. i have several commercial cans and several have a baffel with a dater hole.
my question is? why do different manufactures place the baffel with the dater hole in different positions inside?
for instance, my aac pilot has a dater hole on the blast baffel, but my quest has the dater hole in the 4th baffel.
my logic seems to lead me to believe that the dater hole would have the greatest effect when used in the blast baffel. i realize that there must
be a lot more to it then there seems. i would like to know if the hole really has much effect and if it really matters where the baffel with the hole
is placed. for that matter why not use more then 1 baffel with dater holes? thank you for your time and knowledge.

please. anybody?

I have never seen or heard of a baffle with the Dater hole being located in any position other then as blast baffel. I did read that one guy had his can come with two baffles that had Daters holes, but perhaps that was an error while being assembled at 02.

I would venture to guess that the Dater baffle location in your Quest was an assembly error.

Everything I have read says as blast baffle only to help reduce pressure quickly. Why not on others, probably serves no benefit. I have seen pictures of some cans (none Gemtech) that had the hole in older models of one can but was dispensed with in the newer run of the same model. Some say the hole works while others say no.

the cleaning instructions for the quest say the dater hole must be in the 4th baffel.
it was one of those things that stick in my mind that makes me look for an answer,
thanks

volkstech wrote:the cleaning instructions for the quest say the dater hole must be in the 4th baffel.
it was one of those things that stick in my mind that makes me look for an answer,
thanks

You will have to call Craig and ask him why thats the case, every Quest I have seen has the DATER hole in the blast baffle like its supposed to be.

If there are 8 baffles in the quest one may theorize that the dater hole in the 4th baffle is used to reduce resonance characteristics. But I don't have an exact answer for you sorry man.

ChimeraPrecision wrote:If there are 8 baffles in the quest one may theorize that the dater hole in the 4th baffle is used to reduce resonance characteristics. But I don't have an exact answer for you sorry man.

Theory works on napkins only, don't try to analyze it till we see what Craig has to say.

Put it this way.....there is a reason why ALL manufacturers put the dater hole in the first baffle, well just about all manufacturers.

this is the assembly instructions.

REASSEMBLY
A small amount of "Never Seize" or "No Seize" (which is used on automobile exhaust manifold bolts and is available at any auto parts store) on the endcap OD threads, will facilitate future disassembly. To assemble, screw the rear cap (1/2x28 hole in it) onto the tube first, paying attention to orient the lettering on the tube correctly. Use the driver tool that is still in the vice to hand tighten the rear cap as tightly as you can get it by hand. DO NOT use the strap wrench or any other tools. Insert the baffles from the front of the can with the flat surface first and the cone second (the bullet goes through the flat part of the baffle first), spiraling the baffles every 90 degrees as you put them in. The baffle with the drilled hole in its face should be the fourth baffle to go into the tube. Screw on the front cap and use the same driver in the vice to HAND torque it. You should have tight baffle compression between the caps and there should be between 0.000 and 0.004 gap between the tube and the front cap (about the thickness of a piece of paper). If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to HAND torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.

volkstech wrote:this is the assembly instructions.

REASSEMBLY
A small amount of "Never Seize" or "No Seize" (which is used on automobile exhaust manifold bolts and is available at any auto parts store) on the endcap OD threads, will facilitate future disassembly. To assemble, screw the rear cap (1/2x28 hole in it) onto the tube first, paying attention to orient the lettering on the tube correctly. Use the driver tool that is still in the vice to hand tighten the rear cap as tightly as you can get it by hand. DO NOT use the strap wrench or any other tools. Insert the baffles from the front of the can with the flat surface first and the cone second (the bullet goes through the flat part of the baffle first), spiraling the baffles every 90 degrees as you put them in. The baffle with the drilled hole in its face should be the fourth baffle to go into the tube. Screw on the front cap and use the same driver in the vice to HAND torque it. You should have tight baffle compression between the caps and there should be between 0.000 and 0.004 gap between the tube and the front cap (about the thickness of a piece of paper). If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to HAND torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.

I would love to see his research to determine the location of the dater hole. It goes against everything the rest of the industry knows.

i sent craig an email with the question. i will post his answer.

I wonder if that's not a spellcheck/autocorrect error--fourth when it meant to say first?

I don't recall seeing a dater hole in any of my 22lr suppressors.

No need or no benefit?

doubloon wrote:I don't recall seeing a dater hole in any of my 22lr suppressors.

No need or no benefit?

What suppressors?

Two Spectres, one old and one new.

doubloon wrote:Two Spectres, one old and one new.

Dater holes are specific to K baffles.

Dangit ... I missed that somewhere in the discussion.

I was just looking at my Quest and had the same question ... why the 4th position ?...

Would love to find out if it was an error or is there a valid reason for the the 4th position ??

Quest is not a BAD suppressor,but it could be a LOT better (FRP,inconsistencies in sound)

The only thing I can think of (and having not ever seen a quest) is back when I was developing a k-baffle on a 5.7 the design I started with was a little thin and the guy making them wanted to do them out of 304.

The first set all deformed but surprisingly enough the absolute worst deformation and collapse occurred on baffle #4 of 6. Still don't really understand it. No machining errors . . . I increased the thickness in front face and it did it again. The face that was bent the most was #4. Finally increased the corner radius between the front face and the cone and it stopped. There might actually be something to the #4 thing?

My baffles were .730" long and the tube carried 6.

Interesting

with slow semi-auto and just a .22LR I wouldn't think it would matter
I moved it to the 1st position (blast baffle) and it seemed quieter to me,in fact , a LOT quieter

my only other experience with silencers was with an integral on a Ruger 77/22 and a neighbors experiments with washers and wipes
(which was by far quieter than anything I have heard from commercially made ones,although probably not as accurate)

Almost 100% sure I will be sending it in for a re-build (the Silencer Store) for $225
(I asked others and never got any answers,so this looks like a good option)