I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (again)
Moderators: mpallett, mr fixit, bakerjw, renegade
I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (again)
So I left my Thompson SG sitting in a ziplock with an inch or so of Purple Power cleaner/degreaser at the bottom of it (sprayed it to see what would happen to the carbon) for about two days and not only did it remove the Duracoat finish, but nuked the type III anodizing (looks like a splash anno'd paintball gun now) under the Duracoat and seriously eroded/etched/corroded the part that was actually soaking in the liquid. My own fault, it clearly warns of use on paint and aluminum on the bottle. Since the SG is so thick, no harm done, but I am betting that if I soaked my mite in there, it would be trashed.
It was an easy way to get the duracoat off though. Not one I'd recommend, but still. YMMV, but I wouldn't soak it. This was my first time using Purple Power, and it is an impressive cleaner/degreaser I must say.
(PICS PLACEHOLDER UNTIL TONIGHT)
It was an easy way to get the duracoat off though. Not one I'd recommend, but still. YMMV, but I wouldn't soak it. This was my first time using Purple Power, and it is an impressive cleaner/degreaser I must say.
(PICS PLACEHOLDER UNTIL TONIGHT)
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Interesting segue;
First, thanks for the warning.
Second, CLR... "Calcium, Lime, Rust" remover... I used that on the baffles of my AAC Element with incredible results. Ziplock bag plus 2 minutes of gentle agitation. The carbon came off quickly and easily. It was literally an issue of wiping them with a paper towel after this.
I have asked on this forum if that is an appropriate cleaner that is safe for the baffles, but no definitive answer was given.
CLR seems to be effective at removing crud, but whether it is safe for Aluminum... I do not know. It might be worth looking into for the sole reason that it is effective within minutes.
First, thanks for the warning.
Second, CLR... "Calcium, Lime, Rust" remover... I used that on the baffles of my AAC Element with incredible results. Ziplock bag plus 2 minutes of gentle agitation. The carbon came off quickly and easily. It was literally an issue of wiping them with a paper towel after this.
I have asked on this forum if that is an appropriate cleaner that is safe for the baffles, but no definitive answer was given.
CLR seems to be effective at removing crud, but whether it is safe for Aluminum... I do not know. It might be worth looking into for the sole reason that it is effective within minutes.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Great post. Thanks for the info. Looking forward to pictures.
-----
Ick
Ick
- eastern_hunter
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 966
- Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:34 pm
- Location: Charleston, WV
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Any basic (pH on the basic side of 7.0) material will eat aluminum. Makes Aluminum Hydroxide. Purple Power contains a base.
BAD thing to do to any aluminum part of a suppressor.
BAD thing to do to any aluminum part of a suppressor.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
what about this for cleaning aluminum: http://www.simplegreen.com/products_extreme_motor.php
- Bendersquint
- Industry Professional
- Posts: 11357
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:19 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
OP your can is fine you didn't kill the anodizing.
Purple Power and Simple Green will strip the dye and the dye only from the anodizing.
Purple Power and Simple Green will strip the dye and the dye only from the anodizing.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Bender is correct anodized layer remains intact it just has no color anymore. Sadly tho to reintroduce color back into the parts you will need to remove the anodized layer, re-anodize, color and reseal. Removing the anodized layer can be done with a caustic solution. Lye, easyoff oven cleaner works but you have to be carefull because lye will pit the parts if left to long. I prefer to use a comercial stripper designed for this, its much safer for the parts.
I have heard of people who claim to be able to recolor without re-anodizing they claim just going darker in color will work. I have not tried to recolor in that manner so I cant say if it works or not.
I have heard of people who claim to be able to recolor without re-anodizing they claim just going darker in color will work. I have not tried to recolor in that manner so I cant say if it works or not.
It's truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <---Mine..
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Oh, the anodizing is gone from the one side based on the corrosion alone! The rest of it you're right, by nuked I meant the splash anno look. I'm not worried about the anno, that's what duracoat/alumahyde/paint it for. I'm just going to sand down the corroded exterior until it is smoother, hit it with some black alumahyde (i think, maybe a gray), sand it down, and then hit it again with a nice thick coat. Should look just like original. Maybe do it in FDE, who knows.
I pretty much assumed that Purple Power was like Simple Green or the orange stuff, which I've used before on Al suppressors without issue. That was my bad, but no harm done. I figured I would post up in case anyone does a search. I could see a real thin tube like my mite taking a real beating though.
I pretty much assumed that Purple Power was like Simple Green or the orange stuff, which I've used before on Al suppressors without issue. That was my bad, but no harm done. I figured I would post up in case anyone does a search. I could see a real thin tube like my mite taking a real beating though.
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
- Bendersquint
- Industry Professional
- Posts: 11357
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:19 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
How do you know the anodizing is gone?jt526 wrote:Oh, the anodizing is gone from the one side based on the corrosion alone! The rest of it you're right, by nuked I meant the splash anno look. I'm not worried about the anno, that's what duracoat/alumahyde/paint it for. I'm just going to sand down the corroded exterior until it is smoother, hit it with some black alumahyde (i think, maybe a gray), sand it down, and then hit it again with a nice thick coat. Should look just like original. Maybe do it in FDE, who knows.
I pretty much assumed that Purple Power was like Simple Green or the orange stuff, which I've used before on Al suppressors without issue. That was my bad, but no harm done. I figured I would post up in case anyone does a search. I could see a real thin tube like my mite taking a real beating though.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
There is a way to tell if the anodized layer is gone but you cant tell by simply looking at it. You have to use an ohm meter to see. In the process of raising the oxide layer the part becomes non conductive meaning when you put a meter set on the Ohm scale it will read O.L or open. That doesn't mean grind the test leads into the metal you want to just touch it with the leads only the oxide layer prevents conduction the metal underneath is still very much conductive. When a part is anodized it not only raises a layer of oxide it also grows that layer into the metal. I would suggest cleaning any gunk off the area you suspect and test it with a meter. See pictures below this is an Aluminum engine head I anodized in black then re milled the sides for show the anodized part is non conductive while the re milled area is conductive.
Joe
Joe
It's truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <---Mine..
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Your Nitro engine? Nice posting there.
Member of the LSU, SWR, and RUGGED underground. Shame Silencerco!
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
I "heard" simple green is no the best for aluminum, I also use it on many things.jt526 wrote:Oh, the anodizing is gone from the one side based on the corrosion alone! The rest of it you're right, by nuked I meant the splash anno look. I'm not worried about the anno, that's what duracoat/alumahyde/paint it for. I'm just going to sand down the corroded exterior until it is smoother, hit it with some black alumahyde (i think, maybe a gray), sand it down, and then hit it again with a nice thick coat. Should look just like original. Maybe do it in FDE, who knows.
I pretty much assumed that Purple Power was like Simple Green or the orange stuff, which I've used before on Al suppressors without issue. That was my bad, but no harm done. I figured I would post up in case anyone does a search. I could see a real thin tube like my mite taking a real beating though.
To repaint your can try airbrushing light coat of Gun Kote then bake. (satin too shinny if wanting mat)
Member of the LSU, SWR, and RUGGED underground. Shame Silencerco!
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
All the chemicals are fine but IMHO nothing beats the soda blaster. Fast easy no damage.
"If you carry a gun, people call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what in the hell do I have to be paranoid about?"
Clint Smith
Clint Smith
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
As promised, here's pics. First one you can see the pitting. I scrubbed off the duracoat with a scotchbright. Took very little effort.
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
- Bendersquint
- Industry Professional
- Posts: 11357
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:19 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Why don't you have it reanodized?
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
No reason to, I think I'll just hit it with Alumahyde. I'll knock down the pitting a bit with a light sandpaper, then spray it in matte black.Bendersquint wrote:Why don't you have it reanodized?
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
- Bendersquint
- Industry Professional
- Posts: 11357
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:19 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
You realize what anodizing is right? It protects the metal and makes the surface more durable its not paint like any of the spray finished.jt526 wrote:No reason to, I think I'll just hit it with Alumahyde. I'll knock down the pitting a bit with a light sandpaper, then spray it in matte black.Bendersquint wrote:Why don't you have it reanodized?
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Yep, i know, the part that is eaten off is only on the outside of the tube where it was directly laying in the purple power. Shouldn't be an issue. I think it'll be fine with just a coating. I'd have to spray it anyway to cover the pitting, or bead blast the hell out of it, which might look quite nice actually.
Maybe next time i clean it i'll send off to an annodizer.
Maybe next time i clean it i'll send off to an annodizer.
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
- Bendersquint
- Industry Professional
- Posts: 11357
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:19 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
I would recommend that strongly, anodizing was put on the tube for a reason, would have been cheaper to paint it but nowhere near the protection.jt526 wrote:Yep, i know, the part that is eaten off is only on the outside of the tube where it was directly laying in the purple power. Shouldn't be an issue. I think it'll be fine with just a coating. I'd have to spray it anyway to cover the pitting, or bead blast the hell out of it, which might look quite nice actually.
Maybe next time i clean it i'll send off to an annodizer.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Bendersquint wrote:
How do you know the anodizing is gone?
Member of the LSU, SWR, and RUGGED underground. Shame Silencerco!
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
I'm going with the part that is exposed to oxygen (the pitted/corroded section on the lower 1/6th or so in the first pic) forms aluminum oxide when sitting on my kitchen counter, which I can then polish back off. If it was anodized, I shouldn't see any forming on the surface. I'll do the multimeter test once I have a chance, that looks cool. The annodizing looks to be gone on only about a 2 by 3 patch on the exterior. For the part that got eaten down to bare aluminum, just that smaller part at the bottom on pic 1, it is about an 1/8th of an inch thick there.Emilio wrote:Bendersquint wrote:
How do you know the anodizing is gone?
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
Looks pretty bad but you may still be ok. I suspect its type III anodized and that leaves a good oxide layer in and out of the metals surface. .001 Min, most are typical .003 and even as much as .004 The meter test is probably the best test known I am going to see whats in purple power I didnt thing there was anything caustic in that stuff I use it to clean RC parts all the time mostly spray and wipe because I know it will leach the color from the parts you can sometimes see it on the rag is you let the stuff sit to long on the part so quick wipe and go is all I do. Anodizing is much tuffer then paint I suspect you will be doint touch ups quite a bit. I cant touch it because i dont have to proper paperwork or I would reanodize it for you free of charge Bender does have the needed papers and I have seen his work its very good.
Joe
Joe
It's truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <---Mine..
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
It was duracoated by the manufacturer in the first place, I appreciate the offer though! Now it is just a question of semi-gloss HK black or some other color.
Anodizing looks a lot like Type III, same gray-green color I am familiar with (but I am colorblind).
Thanks again for the offer, mostly posted anyone searching would see it. I could really see it doing a number on a mite or other thin aluminum tube, and trust me, if I had this stuff when trying to take down my mite I'd have used it. I've soaked that thing in everything under the sun to break it loose!
Anodizing looks a lot like Type III, same gray-green color I am familiar with (but I am colorblind).
Thanks again for the offer, mostly posted anyone searching would see it. I could really see it doing a number on a mite or other thin aluminum tube, and trust me, if I had this stuff when trying to take down my mite I'd have used it. I've soaked that thing in everything under the sun to break it loose!
Stupid, stupid NFA items.
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
I'm personaly a fan of flat black Just mean looking IMO. I have been doing type II anodizing for many years I'm looking into type III just not sure I want to go to any added trouble when type II is nearly as good for most applications. I also prefer the choice of colors especially with RC parts and some parts for my motorcycle. Duracoat is a good finish I have done a bit of work with that. Powder coat another option for you. I bought the kit that Harbor frieght sells didn't reall ecpect much from it but its actually pretty damn good. At any rate Good luck whit whatever you choose to do.
Joe
Joe
It's truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <---Mine..
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
Re: I wouldn't soak aluminum suppressors in Purple Power (ag
How does matte black do in the powder coat? For 75 bucks I can't see not giving that a try. Have you done aluminum with it? Thanks for the heads up there, I've got a few things I wouldn't mind powder coating.epicdoom wrote:I'm personaly a fan of flat black Just mean looking IMO. I have been doing type II anodizing for many years I'm looking into type III just not sure I want to go to any added trouble when type II is nearly as good for most applications. I also prefer the choice of colors especially with RC parts and some parts for my motorcycle. Duracoat is a good finish I have done a bit of work with that. Powder coat another option for you. I bought the kit that Harbor frieght sells didn't reall ecpect much from it but its actually pretty damn good. At any rate Good luck whit whatever you choose to do.
Joe
Stupid, stupid NFA items.