Washers and torque on suppressors

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panzertruppe
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Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:20 am

Did a search on Gemtech Trek,

Got one coming to me in 6 looonnnnng mos. Got some good info and created some questions. I saw comments about using and NOT using washers, comments about torquing the can, even split ring washers.....????????

1). So, use or DON'T use washers if you do USE one, which is the preferred type.

2). If DON'T use washers, HOW MUCH do you torque the can to and how could you measure it?

3). There are split ring washers instead of peel and crush for an AR style hider? Where are they??? I understand using crush and peel washers for index reasons, but I'm gonna go with a non indexing hider and would LOVE to use a simple split ring type.

Thanks for input.

panzertruppe

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Bendersquint
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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 12:58 pm

panzertruppe wrote:Did a search on Gemtech Trek,

Got one coming to me in 6 looonnnnng mos. Got some good info and created some questions. I saw comments about using and NOT using washers, comments about torquing the can, even split ring washers.....????????

1). So, use or DON'T use washers if you do USE one, which is the preferred type.

2). If DON'T use washers, HOW MUCH do you torque the can to and how could you measure it?

3). There are split ring washers instead of peel and crush for an AR style hider? Where are they??? I understand using crush and peel washers for index reasons, but I'm gonna go with a non indexing hider and would LOVE to use a simple split ring type.

Thanks for input.

panzertruppe
You don't use washers period, it will cause misalignment of the suppressor and lead to nasty baffle strikes.

Screw the can on by hand thats it. No torque or anyting just as tight as your can by hand. If you do feel the need to make it tighter use a strap wrench. That said I never put any of my thread on cans on with more torque than my hand delivers. No sense in wearing parts unnecessarily.

If you need something to be that rock solid and have no fear from unscrewing the Trek would be the last thing to buy, a quality QA can would be more appropriate.

panzertruppe
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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 11, 2012 1:24 pm

Gotcha Bender,

Thanks... Roger on washers and hand tightening or strap wrench, I have these available. I do have a QD set up for my YHM Phantom. I did use a crush washer for the QD mount to the rifle. Should I remove this washer and direct thread the QD mount with proper torquing for the same reasons you mentioned for direct thread Trek? The shop I bought my Phantom from has a crush washer used with the QD mount, no problems(was this luck?).

Would a little red or blue thread lock on the Trek assist in keeping it on? I will make a habit of checking ALL cans and their tightness on all hosts, with or without QD mounts. This seems to be a GOOD habit based on input here form several people.

Hmm, I didn't know the Trek was this, "sloppy", easily loosened... I have a mill, could I tap and thread a lock type screw into the Trek back at its base? Could you? Would this help keep it in place? I have seen pics of someone here whom had his Trek pinned onto the host....

Thanks again,

panzertruppe

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:12 pm

panzertruppe wrote:Gotcha Bender,

Thanks... Roger on washers and hand tightening or strap wrench, I have these available. I do have a QD set up for my YHM Phantom. I did use a crush washer for the QD mount to the rifle. Should I remove this washer and direct thread the QD mount with proper torquing for the same reasons you mentioned for direct thread Trek? The shop I bought my Phantom from has a crush washer used with the QD mount, no problems(was this luck?).

Would a little red or blue thread lock on the Trek assist in keeping it on? I will make a habit of checking ALL cans and their tightness on all hosts, with or without QD mounts. This seems to be a GOOD habit based on input here form several people.

Hmm, I didn't know the Trek was this, "sloppy", easily loosened... I have a mill, could I tap and thread a lock type screw into the Trek back at its base? Could you? Would this help keep it in place? I have seen pics of someone here whom had his Trek pinned onto the host....

Thanks again,

panzertruppe
Get rid of that crush washer, if you feel that you have to use something on the QA mount then use a peel washer or Rocksett it on with no washers etc...

Don't worry about set screws or loctite or anything, use it as it is from Gemtech. If the Trek needed it then it would be included.

Even the best tolerance can will risk baffle strikes if unscrewed at all.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 11, 2012 4:37 pm

All rite,

The pattern is obvious now. However, how tight should I torque the QD mount so it works and doesnt start screwing off while the can is secure on the QD mount.....? I'm willing to bet more than hand tight... This question will solve the other QD mount issues, the ones on my FAL, AK, and M14...

Thnx again bender for your time and help...

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:46 pm

panzertruppe wrote:All rite,

The pattern is obvious now. However, how tight should I torque the QD mount so it works and doesnt start screwing off while the can is secure on the QD mount.....? I'm willing to bet more than hand tight... This question will solve the other QD mount issues, the ones on my FAL, AK, and M14...

Thnx again bender for your time and help...

panzertruppe
Use Rocksett when you install the mount, once it cures it ain't going nowhere and won't just unscrew unless that is what YOU are wanting to happen.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:28 pm

Rocksett it is...

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by T_Tactical » Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:19 pm

A QD mount should be properly torqued to 20-30 ft lbs and use Rocksett. Never use a crush washer but you can use peel washers to align a break mount.

Don't use a strap wrench for tightening a thread on can, just use your hand to tighten it.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:46 pm

T_Tactical wrote:A QD mount should be properly torqued to 20-30 ft lbs and use Rocksett. Never use a crush washer but you can use peel washers to align a break mount.

Don't use a strap wrench for tightening a thread on can, just use your hand to tighten it.
What is the basis on saying 20-30 ft lbs for a QD mount?

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by JasonM » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:12 pm

Bendersquint wrote:
T_Tactical wrote:A QD mount should be properly torqued to 20-30 ft lbs and use Rocksett. Never use a crush washer but you can use peel washers to align a break mount.

Don't use a strap wrench for tightening a thread on can, just use your hand to tighten it.
What is the basis on saying 20-30 ft lbs for a QD mount?
I have no idea- AAC specc's it at 20-30 ft/lbs.

Oh, and i'd use an actual shim set over a peel washer too.
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T_Tactical
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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by T_Tactical » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:33 pm

Bendersquint wrote:
T_Tactical wrote:A QD mount should be properly torqued to 20-30 ft lbs and use Rocksett. Never use a crush washer but you can use peel washers to align a break mount.

Don't use a strap wrench for tightening a thread on can, just use your hand to tighten it.
What is the basis on saying 20-30 ft lbs for a QD mount?
20-30 ft lbs is the proper torque you should apply to not only QD mounts but also flash hiders and breaks. Tighten it more than that and you could stretch the threads, tighten it less and it could come loose.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:33 pm

JasonM wrote:
Bendersquint wrote:
T_Tactical wrote:A QD mount should be properly torqued to 20-30 ft lbs and use Rocksett. Never use a crush washer but you can use peel washers to align a break mount.

Don't use a strap wrench for tightening a thread on can, just use your hand to tighten it.
What is the basis on saying 20-30 ft lbs for a QD mount?
I have no idea- AAC specc's it at 20-30 ft/lbs.

Oh, and i'd use an actual shim set over a peel washer too.
I would also go with shims over peel washers. I forgot you guys sold them separate from the silencers.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:38 pm

This should be fun,

There are no "flats" to put an open end crows foot on to "torque" it..... It's a can... Hmmmmm.

Shim sets available at Brownells and Midway I'm sure...

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:43 pm

panzertruppe wrote:This should be fun,

There are no "flats" to put an open end crows foot on to "torque" it..... It's a can... Hmmmmm.

Shim sets available at Brownells and Midway I'm sure...

panzertruppe
AAC sells shim kits on their website.

There are wrench flats on the YHM mounts.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:25 pm

Danka wieter Bender,

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Fri Aug 17, 2012 8:18 pm

OK,

Do I REALLY need the shims for the QD mount or are they only there for index reasons or a bit of spacing? And, do I need shims for a direct thread Trek?

The shoulder on the barrel is square or not square... A shim is a spacing and/or timing device, correct? I am not aversed with ODD timing on my YHM QD mounts, so why are the shims necessary? And again, are the shims necessary for the Trek...?

Rocksett and screw them on, QD mounts and Trek, without shims unless a spacer is critical, because the timing on my QD mounts is not....

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by Bendersquint » Fri Aug 17, 2012 8:25 pm

panzertruppe wrote:OK,

Do I REALLY need the shims for the QD mount or are they only there for index reasons or a bit of spacing? And, do I need shims for a direct thread Trek?

The shoulder on the barrel is square or not square... A shim is a spacing and/or timing device, correct? I am not aversed with ODD timing on my YHM QD mounts, so why are the shims necessary? And again, are the shims necessary for the Trek...?

Rocksett and screw them on, QD mounts and Trek, without shims unless a spacer is critical, because the timing on my QD mounts is not....

panzertruppe
You do not need anything that the manufacturer did not provide. Simple as that. Only exception is perhaps Loctite or Rocksett but the manual will say if you need that explicitly.

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Re: Washers and torque on suppressors

Post by panzertruppe » Sat Aug 18, 2012 2:37 pm

Thanx again bender,

You're like the Coyote(Looney Tunes), SUPRA GENIUS!

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