Cleaning my .22 can

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SwampGator
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Post by SwampGator »

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Last edited by SwampGator on Sat Dec 30, 2023 11:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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RyanMerrick
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Post by RyanMerrick »

ok, thanks to all for all of your input. i wont get a chance to play with my silencer anyway for a while. i finally got accepted to the border patrol and have hade to move to texas from ohio. plus ill be in school at artisia new mexico for the next 4 months.
Curtis
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Post by Curtis »

Where in Texas did you get stationed?
RyanMerrick
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Post by RyanMerrick »

i am stationed in brackettville, but will proably be living in del rio.
Curtis
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Post by Curtis »

Cool....I live not to far away in Kerrville. I wakeboard at Lake Amistad, and am down that way fairly often. Let me know if you need a close class three guy or some place to shoot. We have both within 30Min of Kerrville. They will have a shoot house in pretty soon for L.E.
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coyote223
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Post by coyote223 »

Ron of Va wrote:I own 3 rimfire suppressors and they can all disassemble for cleaning. I also encountered problems with lead and powder residue cooking on the baffles. I was unable to find any solvent to remove it so I turned to a wire wheel and finally got it clean. I found it quite a chore.

My dealer suggested that I give it a spray of Breakfree CLP prior to each use. I found that the Breakfree vaporized during firing and seemed to coat the inside of the can. It not only made the can a little quieter, but it prevented the lead and powder from cooking on. The lead and powder seems to turn into a sludge that will wipe away with a paper towel. Granted, the lubricant will grab more stuff, but it won’t cook on to the baffles, and makes the cleaning process much easier.
I have attached a photo of some of the baffles to show you. To make the point, I show how the residue wipes off with a Q-tip. A one second spray is all it takes.

If I owned a new sealed 22 can, I would give it a squirt of Breakfree prior to each use and between each 25 rounds. This would keep the residue moist and after every 500-1000 rounds I would run a bottle brush through it and wash it out in a parts cleaner. If a parts cleaner wasn’t available I would use one of those things that looks like a turkey baster made for adding acid to a battery and flush it out in a pan of your favorite solvent that will dissolve powder residue.

Image
So is this O.K. to do with Aluminum baffles? I have a Stratus coming and want to keep it easy to clean, Thanks.
Ron of Va
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Post by Ron of Va »

Breakfree CLP is a synthetic based non-reactive lubricant. http://www.break-free.com/ It apppears to have been made for firearms. It will not hurt aluminum. I will say that it seems to have the same properties as the Gunzilla mentioned earlier.
Gunzilla $7 for 1.9 oz versus Breakfree CLP $10 for a 12 oz. aerosol can (from a gun show).
Remember that lead is in suspension as sludge inside the can. It is heavy, and will fall out of suspension when the sludge dissolves inside.. So when you flush it out, you will have to shake while you flush.
garry
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ultrasonic cleaner

Post by garry »

jonscott1983, could you describe your method for cleaning your pilot in the ultrasonic cleaner, as for as solution, lenght of time in the cleaner, etc.? I have aac sacarb I was thinking of cleaning in my ultasonic cleaner.
Thanks Garry
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bonebreak2000
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Post by bonebreak2000 »

FALCON 1 wrote:I have 3 .22cal cans.
I clean the baffle in 5 mins using Hoppes.No.9 and a toothbrush. I used Tractor grease in the tube as well as the baffle coating and presto I am all done in about 10 minutes.
Not sure what cans you have but AACs manual states not to use Hoppes as it attacks alluminum.

Garry the AAC manual also states to not use an ultrasonic cleaner on the can.

I am still looking for a way to clean the evo-9 and the pilot. Right now I have them both submegered in laquer thinner but it doesn't seem to be doing that much to them.....

Anyone have any suggestions for how to really clean these baffles? (evo-9 and the pilot)
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Scarface06
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Post by Scarface06 »

What about spraying some welding splatter guard in the can before shooting it. It comes in a spray can and works for keeping welding splatter from sticking to metal that you're trying to keep clean. If it works for molten steel in should work for carbon and lead. Then after shooting all day you should just be able to rinse the can out. And you can get that stuff at any welding supply place.
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jackal2001
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Post by jackal2001 »

Try gunzilla and let us know how it works. I just submitted my paperwork today for my Warlock, so it will be a while before I get it.
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OkieSnoop
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Pilot & Phoenix

Post by OkieSnoop »

Ok, let me jump into this forum please,
I just got both a pilot and a Phoenix intergral from AAC and now I'm reading about sludge and lead buildup in these things - Is there any GOOD way to adequately clean one of these things? I've heard Kroil, Lacquer thinner, and several other chemicals that are supposed to work.
Is there a foolproof (I'm the fool who bought them) to maintain them?
Since neither of them can be diassembled, I assume that flush and fill is the only way!?
I like the idea of the CLP Breakfree, good suff for guns anyway -
Be anxious to here from anyone -

Best to all -
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monkeytoys
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Post by monkeytoys »

shoot them and don't worry about cleaning them. i've tried the laquer thinner and ATF. I've finally decided to let them be. i only clean the piston and blast chamber of my evo9. i don't worry about cleaning the pilot anymore. I don't see any buildup in the blast baffle of the pilot and it's got around 4k thru it now.
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jackal2001
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Post by jackal2001 »

There is also something else I ran into which is called RB-17 but it sounds exactly like Gunzilla.

Or you can just follow the manufactures instructions and try cleaning about every 500 rounds and not worry about anthing else.
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MrPhotoGuyInc
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Post by MrPhotoGuyInc »

Yea got the gunzilla....not Impressed at ALL... save your MONEY :x
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jackal2001
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Post by jackal2001 »

thanks for the info
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OkieSnoop
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Post by OkieSnoop »

Ok, so from what I can gather there is no perfect solution or chemical to clean these sealed cans, right? best bet is to soak them in somthing - anything- that won't react with aluminum for awhile and blow them out with an air hose. Otherwise shoot it till it glows red, shut up and have fun :roll: :o
Ok, I can do that!
Anybody else want to chime in on a solution for getting the carbon out of these things?
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3101
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Post by 3101 »

OkieSnoop wrote:Ok, so from what I can gather there is no perfect solution or chemical to clean these sealed cans, right? best bet is to soak them in somthing - anything- that won't react with aluminum for awhile and blow them out with an air hose. Otherwise shoot it till it glows red, shut up and have fun :roll: :o
Ok, I can do that!
Anybody else want to chime in on a solution for getting the carbon out of these things?
Yes, you understand perfectly. shoot it til it is heavier than a boat anchor or louder than it is with it off, and be happy with it. I am....I rarely read these weekly "how do I clean my sealed can" threads anymore.
If you bought from a quality manufacturer, then shoot the damn thing and have fun..
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bonebreak2000
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Post by bonebreak2000 »

Im not as worried about lead as I am the carbon. I need to keep a few cans cleaned 1 rimfire the rest pistol/centerfire. What is the best thing to use to clean these baffles?
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Ben B.
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Post by Ben B. »

bonebreak2000 wrote: What is the best thing to use to clean these baffles?
Clean them by firing more .22 caliber ammunition. I prefer Lapua, because I got a free case. When you really start to worry about carbon, try running in a circle and flapping your hands in a spastic display of angst until the bad worries go away. Works for me every time.
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bonebreak2000
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Post by bonebreak2000 »

Ben B. wrote:
bonebreak2000 wrote: What is the best thing to use to clean these baffles?
Clean them by firing more .22 caliber ammunition. I prefer Lapua, because I got a free case. When you really start to worry about carbon, try running in a circle and flapping your hands in a spastic display of angst until the bad worries go away. Works for me every time.
Fire more .22 through a 9mm can? Thanks for the smartass remark.

Is there really no way to clean these cans out? If not why are we recommended to clean them once every 500 rounds? I submerged my .22 and 9mm can in thinner over the weekend. barely anything at all came out. I had to scrape the piston and spring for a good 20 minutes to get it clean. The baffels are just as bad I'm sure. Is there even a point to trying to clean sealed cans?
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monkeytoys
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Post by monkeytoys »

just shoot them and don't worry. i was worried at first, but now i don't worry anymore. i don't regret buying a sealed pilot anymore. i'm starting to read that take apart cans have problems also. they are hard to get apart, hard to get the baffles out, how to clean them once you get them apart..... i'll just shoot my pilot and not worry anymore.

as for centerfire rifle cans... shoot and forget
centerfire pistol cans.... on my evo9, i just clean the piston and expansion chamber & put oil on the o-ring.
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bonebreak2000
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Post by bonebreak2000 »

monkeytoys wrote:just shoot them and don't worry. i was worried at first, but now i don't worry anymore. i don't regret buying a sealed pilot anymore. i'm starting to read that take apart cans have problems also. they are hard to get apart, hard to get the baffles out, how to clean them once you get them apart..... i'll just shoot my pilot and not worry anymore.

as for centerfire rifle cans... shoot and forget
centerfire pistol cans.... on my evo9, i just clean the piston and expansion chamber & put oil on the o-ring.
Standard gun oil or like a silicon oil?
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OkieSnoop
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Post by OkieSnoop »

GeLeo
Yes, you understand perfectly. shoot it til it is heavier than a boat anchor or louder than it is with it off, and be happy with it. I am....I rarely read these weekly "how do I clean my sealed can" threads anymore.
If you bought from a quality manufacturer, then shoot the damn thing and have fun..[/quote]

Alright SWATdog - I've worked with guys like you before....(In the Marine Corp) Just use it till it breaks and requisition another one :roll:
Well, it worked then and it will work now! Thanks for the advice - really
And good luck to you in Georgia - try to stay out of the way of moving projectiles - suppressed or not - :)

OkieSnoop
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Ben B.
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Post by Ben B. »

If you are so concerned about carbon build up, the Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter is a product you should look at.

http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15sh ... eview.msnw

Certainly they are valid concerns in a booster, though you are wasting time worrying about the internals of a 9mm can. My smartass remark was definitely aimed at the angst over the .22 cans, which has been the result of valid input from FA .22 shooters and the well-executed marketing strategies from the take-apart sellers.

Ben
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