Cleaning my .22 can

RyanMerrick · Post by **RyanMerrick** » Sat May 19, 2007 1:04 pm

Ok, what is the "most" effective way to clean the carbon buildup and some of the lead deposits from my outback2? I have put about 1000 rounds through it.

Sid Post · Post by **Sid Post** » Sat May 19, 2007 1:21 pm

Send it back to GemTech ....

Just kidding!

Seriously, have you considered getting an ultrasonic cleaner? You need to be careful with the mix in the tank but, I'm going to go that route. L&R has one at Midway for $400 but, I'm probably going to a little larger and get a Crest at ~$700 with the heat and lubricating tank.

RyanMerrick · Post by **RyanMerrick** » Sat May 19, 2007 2:37 pm

what about eds red? or kroil? will those work? anything else that i dont know about

Sid Post · Post by **Sid Post** » Sat May 19, 2007 3:13 pm

The lead build up is the hard part to remove. The normal carbon cutting stuff works, just make sure it doesn't eat aluminum.

SwampGator · Post by **SwampGator** » Sat May 19, 2007 3:18 pm

robino · Post by **robino** » Sun May 20, 2007 11:40 am

i thought leaving it in some solvent overnight was a good way to clean them...

how many rnds. before cleaning a can is recommended?

in other words, BEFORE lead deposits, how often should it be cleaned/soaked in solvent?

zach h · Post by **zach h** » Sun May 20, 2007 12:31 pm

kroil won't do much but remove some of the carbon and the loose stuff in the can. ATF might work as it has some pretty strong detergents and is safe for Al.

chili17 · Post by **chili17** » Sun May 20, 2007 12:52 pm

NOTHING will get the cooked on lead out exept for blasting or scraping. If you can't take the can apart use a oversize borebrush to clean the suppressor.

robino · Post by **robino** » Sun May 20, 2007 10:15 pm

so cleaning it often won't prevent cooked on lead?

how often is recommended as to not allow lead deposit?

Jonas · Post by **Jonas** » Mon May 21, 2007 1:05 am

IMHO you shouldn't worry about lead buildup until you've fired 10K+ rounds. There's not that much lead being peeled off each round.

Ron of Va · Post by **Ron of Va** » Mon May 21, 2007 4:52 am

I own 3 rimfire suppressors and they can all disassemble for cleaning. I also encountered problems with lead and powder residue cooking on the baffles. I was unable to find any solvent to remove it so I turned to a wire wheel and finally got it clean. I found it quite a chore.

My dealer suggested that I give it a spray of Breakfree CLP prior to each use. I found that the Breakfree vaporized during firing and seemed to coat the inside of the can. It not only made the can a little quieter, but it prevented the lead and powder from cooking on. The lead and powder seems to turn into a sludge that will wipe away with a paper towel. Granted, the lubricant will grab more stuff, but it won’t cook on to the baffles, and makes the cleaning process much easier.
I have attached a photo of some of the baffles to show you. To make the point, I show how the residue wipes off with a Q-tip. A one second spray is all it takes.

If I owned a new sealed 22 can, I would give it a squirt of Breakfree prior to each use and between each 25 rounds. This would keep the residue moist and after every 500-1000 rounds I would run a bottle brush through it and wash it out in a parts cleaner. If a parts cleaner wasn’t available I would use one of those things that looks like a turkey baster made for adding acid to a battery and flush it out in a pan of your favorite solvent that will dissolve powder residue.

robino · Post by **robino** » Mon May 21, 2007 1:19 pm

what's with all the washers...?

bgrayd · Post by **bgrayd** » Mon May 21, 2007 2:01 pm

I'm curious which one is pictured with that type of baffle?

Brett

Ron of Va · Post by **Ron of Va** » Mon May 21, 2007 2:33 pm

bgrayd wrote:I'm curious which one is pictured with that type of baffle?

Brett

The photo I posted shows the baffles from my John's Guns suppressor. It was supposed to show how a mix of Breakfree CLP, gunpowder residue, and lead do not cook on the baffles. It forms a kind of a sludge that can be wiped off. I assume that the lead could be washed out of the can, because it has not bonded. When lead melts onto the side of the baffle, it sticks like solder and is just as hard to scrape off. Breakfree prevents it from bonding.

MrPhotoGuyInc · Post by **MrPhotoGuyInc** » Tue May 22, 2007 10:09 pm

ultrasonic-cleaners on ebay dirt cheap

http://search.ebay.com/ultrasonic-cleaner

Sid Post · Post by **Sid Post** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:16 am

Gun specific ultrasonic cleaners have specific features in them that these cheap ones don't seem to have. Buyer beware on Ebay.

robino · Post by **robino** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:17 am

one of them $250 ones should suffice then?
the heated 2.5 gallon ones?

what kind of cleanser goes inside one?

jackal2001 · Post by **jackal2001** » Wed May 23, 2007 3:30 pm

SWR specifically states on the Warlock PDF that:

Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner on any aluminum suppressor. Doing so will damage the finish and attack the aluminum internals components.

The Warlock is not designed to be disassembled by the end user. At intervals of approximately 500 rounds it is recommended that the suppressor be submerged in WD-40® or Kroil®. Allow the suppressor to soak as long as possible. Once removed the suppressor should be left to drain thread end down. Compressed air may be used to blow out the remaining oil

I don't know about whatever can you have, but if I were you to call the manufacture and ask them about ultrasonic cleaners first.

RyanMerrick · Post by **RyanMerrick** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:17 pm

I called gemtech, and the man on the phone recomended a new product called Gunzilla. Its all natural and is made out of plants. He said that it is compleatly safe to use on an aluminum silencer. I apperantly disolves the powder and the wax residue on the bullets that gets layered in the can along with all of the lead. He described it as a sandwich of lube and lead that layers up in the can. If the solvent will disolve the wax, then wouldnt it take out the lead that is in between the layers.

MrPhotoGuyInc · Post by **MrPhotoGuyInc** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:27 pm

found some Gunzilla on ebay will order a bottle and see how it works..

Here a ebay link just got 4 bottles

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0122642101

jackal2001 · Post by **jackal2001** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:29 pm

Someone else recommended it when I was asking about just cleaning out leaded .22 barrels. They said it really works with a bore brush and that product.

I would give it a shot. You would probably have to soak it in it for a night.

MidwayUSA carries it.

jackal2001 · Post by **jackal2001** » Fri May 25, 2007 11:04 am

I just got this reply from gunzilla. I asked if it would eat aluminum, but this is the response I got.

Many thanks for your interest in Gunzilla "The world's best gun cleaner". Gunzilla will clean any metal surface. It also can remain on any metal surface for an indefinite period of time without harming the metal. Gunzilla does not attack metal it only cleans and protects metal. Also, Gunzilla does not evaporate so you only need to coat the area you want to clean.

Gunzilla will soften some household plastics if it is left on the surface in the liquid form for an extended period of time. Once Gunzilla is wiped dry the coating left behind will not harm any plastics including a plastic it might soften in the liquid form. We have not found any weapon polymer that Gunzilla harms.

Gunzilla can be used to clean o rings but there are some o rings that Gunzilla will swell if it is left on the o ring for an extended period of time in the liquid form. However once Gunzilla is wiped dry it will not harm any o ring.

Hopefully this information answers your questions and please feel free to contact us if you have any additional questions.

Sincerely,

Don Kettles

FALCON 1 · Post by **FALCON 1** » Fri May 25, 2007 10:52 pm

I have 3 .22cal cans. I got so fed up with the scraping issues that when my last 10/22 integral from David Saylors came with his monolithic baffle which is a one piece set up I asked him to do my external can as well as another Ruger MK11 from John's Gun the same way.

Clean up now consists of pulling the one piece system out of the tube with a special tool. I clean the baffle in 5 mins using Hoppes.No.9 and a toothbrush. I used Tractor grease in the tube as well as the baffle coating and presto I am all done in about 10 minutes.

Anyone wanting to contact David to re do their system email me for specifics at [email protected]

I almost got turned off due to the cleaning issues with the .22 cal but his system makes it a pleasure.

FALCON 1

barnes · Post by **barnes** » Sat May 26, 2007 8:49 pm

Ordered a .22 kit for a M-16 with a Surefire suppresor. Willl shoot alot of lead full auto. Should I get a different suppressor or are the cleaning methods described here sufficient to avoid excessive buildup in the sealed surefire? I want a suppressor to shoot extensive amounts of ammo through without cleaning every magazine.

Ben B. · Post by **Ben B.** » Sat May 26, 2007 9:03 pm

RyanMerrick wrote:Ok, what is the "most" effective way to clean the carbon buildup and some of the lead deposits from my outback2? I have put about 1000 rounds through it.

I'd suggest that you follow the directions in the GemTech pamphlet, which are similar to the SWR Warlock directions. Then, if I were you, I'd think about something else and stop worrying about it altogether. It's a non-issue unless you shot the 1,000 rounds in a week, and plan more of the same. If you bought it for a FA platform, I'd suggest that you plan on buying a high volume, disassemble-able can.

Cleaning my .22 can

Cleaning my .22 can

Yes, actually...

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Re: Cleaning my .22 can