I did this knife up a couple days ago. Just gauging interest to see how many people might be interested in one. I've always had an interest in knife making. I added the bottle opener for fun.
Rough dimensions:
OAL - 11.4"
Grip Length - 5.1"
Blade Length - 5.4"
Grip Thickness - .7"
Blade Thickness - .2"
Gauging Interest
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Gauging Interest
Last edited by paco ramirez on Sun May 15, 2011 4:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Gauging Interest
Why the thinner grind @ the base of the blade? Other than that, looks mean. Not a big fan of the tanto point myself - no belly for slashing/cutting tasks, kind of strictly a stabbing weapon.
"I regard virginity as a correctible perversity of no interest" - Lazarus Long (Time Enough for Love), Robert A. Heinlein
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- Silent But Deadly
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Re: Gauging Interest
Added that because from what I understand it retains an edge longer than a wider one. Just what I heard. Also for looks, but that's about it. I'll post some more revisions in a bit.jdj wrote:Why the thinner grind @ the base of the blade? Other than that, looks mean. Not a big fan of the tanto point myself - no belly for slashing/cutting tasks, kind of strictly a stabbing weapon.
Re: Gauging Interest
I like the overall design. You are aware you must give it a tacti-cool 'name' right? Marketing and all. But, nothing with Navy SEAL in it.
What blade material and heat treatment?
Includes a Kydex sheath?
What handle material?
What blade material and heat treatment?
Includes a Kydex sheath?
What handle material?
https://www.facebook.com/wickedweapons
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Re: Gauging Interest
The grip material is probably going to be G10. Either that, or canvas micarta. I'm relatively new to knives so I don't what what's cheapest or the most popular. The others I'll have to get back to you on. I wouldn't want to use a chintzy blade material. I figured for the naming I'd keep it simple. Basically each knife goes by this format: V(ersion)# R(evision)#
So for example on this first knife below it would be V1 R18 (Version 1, Revision 18). When I did R18 I was just trying out a number of different grinds to see how they looked and all. I don't care for R18 too much.
R18
R25
R27
So for example on this first knife below it would be V1 R18 (Version 1, Revision 18). When I did R18 I was just trying out a number of different grinds to see how they looked and all. I don't care for R18 too much.
R18
R25
R27
Re: Gauging Interest
Tanto blades are good for prying if you don't put the bowie relief by the tip. I hate the look, but I cannot deny their utility. I heart bowies.
I'm not interested in fixed blades. They're better than folders in every way but the laws against them are ridiculous and many. A fixed blade is a multitool. A folder is a knife. So the multitool is banned, because it is more useful to people. Nothing to do with public safety. Carrying a fixed blade is like carrying an illegal machine gun.
I'm not interested in fixed blades. They're better than folders in every way but the laws against them are ridiculous and many. A fixed blade is a multitool. A folder is a knife. So the multitool is banned, because it is more useful to people. Nothing to do with public safety. Carrying a fixed blade is like carrying an illegal machine gun.
Re: Gauging Interest
Very unique design. Speaking from experience, all those flats are going to be a nightmare to do freehand. As with most things, simple usually works best. From a design stand point, straight things don't fit well into a human hand. A slight arch or palm swell on the spine of the handle will make it feel much better. Just look at some of the new pistols on the market, like the S&W M&P or the HK45 and the HK P30. A 1911 feels good, but the HK45 feels amazing. It looks like you are taking alot away from the tip. Research the armor piercing tip that the Japanese used on some of there swords. I can't find a pic right now. If you look down from the top the tip will make a long diamond. Thin at the tip getting wider about .5" to 1" back and then back in and thinning out the whole top edge. It reduces weight, but keeps it strong. Also a true Tanto is a curve. What you have is the "American Tanto". A curve whether it is long or short is much more useful than the hard angles. As for steel, 1095 is awesome. It is what they use for the K-Bar. It is inexpensive, so it is great to practice with, but will make a great blade if you like your results. It is high carbon, so it will need to be oil quenched. There are heat treat places that will do that. I prefer G-10 over Micarta. G-10 is much easier to work and does not stink like Micarta when you grind it. I am not knocking your design, just trying to help with certain things I can see that might make a better mousetrap... If you would want to ask any questions, I can try and help with anything.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Some of my work. www.jkknives.com
Re: Gauging Interest
Flip the bottle opener around and put some jimping on the top so your thumb won't slide off. Not that I need to stab anything on a regular basis but if I do, I'd like to have as much purchase as possible, even if it's just opening a soup can.
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Re: Gauging Interest
Thanks for the assistance/tips guys. All criticism is welcomed. If I have any questions I'll let you know Jeremy, thanks. I'm redesigning the grip currently and will post back soon.