All through the mail, superb service from the guys at Silencershop here in TX. Got to love a stocking dealer who lives in my State. It still took 10 months, though.

I bought this particular can because of its serviceability. I plan on eventually dumping mega-rounds through it via my .22 belt fed MG project.

First impressions... smaller than I pictured. VERY well crafted. The stack, from a manual machinist's POV, is a thing of beauty. The webbing is thin, very thin, and I'd be terrified to try and mill something like this myself from SS. It's almost like it was cast or EDM'd.

I'm a picture Ho. I know most everyone here is too. I'll take some pics and do a comparison with the only other commercial .22 can I have, a Bowers CAC-22 that sits almost permanently on my Savage rimfire - the ultimate tree rat slayer.

But before the pretty pictures, I have a question...

As I said, my only other commercial can is the CAC-22, and every barrel I threaded in the lathe, with the exception of some adapters for handguns like the Mosquito, I threaded so as to fit the CAC-22 snugly. I know it's the shoulder of the barrel that registers the can, but I like firm threads.

I tried threading the Sparrow onto my Savage, and it was a no-go, way too tight. Same with another barrel on a Ruger MK2. My options are to run a quality 1/2" x 28 tap through the sparrow to clean it up/loosen it a bit, or use an adjustable die on the barrels to remove a tiny bit more metal. Not sure which to do; I'm leaning towards using the die on my barrels. Opinions?

Some pics:


Nice belt pouch came with the can:


Apparently, there were some finish issues earlier. I can see no flaw in this particular suppressor, pictured here next to the CAC-22. It is shorter and slightly wider than the CAC.


Some additional images:

And of course, the good part... how it disassembles for cleaning:







I know there's nothing new here, but pictures are always fun, and of course, I'm psyched. It should screw right on to my Mosquito adapter, since both the can and the adapter are 100% commercial. I'll report back on the infamous first round pop issue and give some impressions on it.

So far, I'm very happy with everything I've seen.

I fired a handful of rounds through the Sparrow and the CAC-22 using a Sig Mosquito. Took video of it as well.

First impression - very nice. The FRP from a handgun at least is there, but I wouldn't call it objectionable. The CAC-22 also had some FRP, not quite as loud as the Sparrow. Subsequent shots had the Sparrow suppressing better than the CAC.

I'll see if the vids are worth a s--t or not, and see if I can't post them.

It's a winner so far.

Baffled wrote: I tried threading the Sparrow onto my Savage, and it was a no-go, way too tight. Same with another barrel on a Ruger MK2. My options are to run a quality 1/2" x 28 tap through the sparrow to clean it up/loosen it a bit, or use an adjustable die on the barrels to remove a tiny bit more metal. Not sure which to do; I'm leaning towards using the die on my barrels. Opinions?

What is your pitch diameter on the barrel? If you threaded it to proper spec ANY .22lr can should fit no issue.

The CAC-22 spec which is a pretty loose fit.

This is why you thread to spec not to a can in particular.

I would NOT think of running a die through the mount!

Once you get it all figured out you need to get it melonited!

Congrats! Just curious, what was the stamp approved date on the F4?

A light spritz of water will kill the FRP. A real fine mist is best, I use an eyeglass spray cleaner bottle, others use a nasal spray bottle. You don't need to use much, not even enough to make a mess.

No need on rifles, no FRP there.

Baffled wrote:My options are to run a quality 1/2" x 28 tap through the sparrow to clean it up/loosen it a bit, or use an adjustable die on the barrels to remove a tiny bit more metal

Best rule of thumb - Always cut on the cheapest part.

Corollary - Don't cut on the part with a warranty. Especially if it takes a year to ship

Yeah, I was 90% sure that I'd be working the barrels rather than the can. I know it is always best to work to a spec rather than "part A fits part B" but the CAC threads were just a bit loose for my taste.

An adjustable die should be able to do the job in a few minutes. I've often used a die after a single point lathe thread job is 95% cut, and it works fine since the lathe cut is properly concentric; the die simply shaves a bit and also cleans any burr.

As far as the FRP, it is not objectionable to me. Pest control I always do with my Savage .22. The handguns are just for plinking fun, so FRP = no big deal. I thought about engineering an insert to perhaps eliminate some of it, but that would be a no-no, or $200 and a F1. But really, for those shopping for a nice .22 can, don't let FRP dissuade you unless your application is very specialized.

A light spritz of water will kill the FRP. A real fine mist is best, I use an eyeglass spray cleaner bottle, others use a nasal spray bottle. You don't need to use much, not even enough to make a mess.

One of those Afrin "pump" misters would be ideal, thanks.

Congrats! Just curious, what was the stamp approved date on the F4?

Approved 13 Sep 13. I was notified of the approval on about 2 Oct, so that is when the dealer got it, I'm guessing.

I'll take a look at the vids I shot, and if I post them, it'll be here as an mp4 file rather than YouTube... I don't put NFA stuff there.

Was expecting the FRP issue (on a Ruger SR22 pistol) when my Sparrow arrived recently. But thankfully, no FRP exists with the SR22. Still can't explain why... i'm usually not that lucky.

Follow up - The Sparrow performs superbly on a bolt gun, in this case, my Savage MK2. I'm very happy with it. I can now use my CAC-22 (A very HQ, heavy duty SS can, but sealed) on lower volume platforms. The Sparrow will go on .22LR machine guns.

Question on the O-ring mounted in the 1/2" - 28 threads - I understand it's supposed to keep the bbl threads clean, and ideally, one doesn't want barrel threads hanging out free into the blast area... otherwise, they get coated with crud and can damage the Sparrow threads when dismounting. Is the o-ring supposed to actually get threaded on a turn, or is it supposed to "crown" the very end, and not get threaded on?

I am used to making precision spacers, because not all my barrels, nor all my suppressors, have the same thread length.

Baffled wrote: Question on the O-ring mounted in the 1/2" - 28 threads - I understand it's supposed to keep the bbl threads clean, and ideally, one doesn't want barrel threads hanging out free into the blast area... otherwise, they get coated with crud and can damage the Sparrow threads when dismounting. Is the o-ring supposed to actually get threaded on a turn, or is it supposed to "crown" the very end, and not get threaded on?

For barrels threaded the normal 1/2x28 x 0.400", yes the o-ring helps keep the barrel threads cleaner.

For barrels specifically threaded for a Sparrow with o-ring engagement 1/2x28 x 0.476", the o-ring provides extra grip to prevent loosening while shooting.

I think the Spectre and Warlock also have the internal o-ring feature.

Baffled wrote:And of course, the good part... how it disassembles for cleaning:







I know there's nothing new here, but pictures are always fun, and of course, I'm psyched. It should screw right on to my Mosquito adapter, since both the can and the adapter are 100% commercial. I'll report back on the infamous first round pop issue and give some impressions on it.

So far, I'm very happy with everything I've seen.

Yes! Nicely done photos.

Qual-It-Teeee!

Would expect nothing less from them.

Question for Mr. B.:

Could from your experience conceive if an inverted snorkel/cone on the inside of the front end cap
create an appreciable added sound reduction as the reduced gases
would have extra longer path to travel after the projectile has exited?

A Democrat, I mean hermaphrodite final K Baffle?

Historian wrote: Question for Mr. B.:
Could from your experience conceive if an inverted snorkel/cone on the inside of the front end cap
create an appreciable added sound reduction as the reduced gases
would have extra longer path to travel after the projectile has exited?

Yes it does help but would be very difficult to machine in a monocore like the Sparrow.

Bendersquint wrote:

Historian wrote: Question for Mr. B.:
Could from your experience conceive if an inverted snorkel/cone on the inside of the front end cap
create an appreciable added sound reduction as the reduced gases
would have extra longer path to travel after the projectile has exited?

Yes it does help but would be very difficult to machine in a monocore like the Sparrow.

I thought that this might be the case.

As for the solution one does not need to alter the monocore in anyway,
just place the base of a cone frustum*in the last cell and the end cap,
with the base against the front end cap. One would easily just slip in.


* << http://www.vias.org/calculus/06_applica ... 04_01.html >>

<< http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/49187 ... image.html >>

<< http://photo.stackexchange.com/question ... -lens-hood >>. etc.

For a F1 can, it would be simple to engineer a monocore with maybe 1 or 2 inserts at strategic locations. If it were legal, I'd play with something in the blast area of this can to try and reduce FRP a bit. But it's not worth $200 to me.

MSRP?

cyclone72 wrote:MSRP?

http://www.silencershop.com/

On my barrels with threads that were just a tiny bit too fat - took a new 1/2" x 28 die, opened it up with the adjusting screw, let it start loose, then tightened just a squeak, and cleaned the threads. What came off the die was fuzz like 0000000000 steel wool, and that was all it took for the sparrow to fit perfectly.

Stupid me, though - all my firearms except a couple of handguns require a spacer, as I had turned them too long.

Baffled wrote: Stupid me, though - all my firearms except a couple of handguns require a spacer, as I had turned them too long.

Throw it in your lathe and turn it down to appropriate lengths....

Bendersquint wrote:

Baffled wrote: Stupid me, though - all my firearms except a couple of handguns require a spacer, as I had turned them too long.

Throw it in your lathe and turn it down to appropriate lengths....

I need to get off my dead ass and do just that.