FNG here with another new gu question on cans.. looking to sshoot corrosive 5.45 7n6

[IrieRider]

So I need a serviceable can, I plan to threat to the barrel on the 24mm front sight.

I have a liberty cosmic and mystic x in route, but would like dedicated supressors for 30cal and 545/556 I'd like to know the best couple options to look at for serviceable and in the best materials for longevity as its a semi auto. Dont mind if it QD or direct, I prefer Ti as its lighter and stronger overall than steel, and these days not much more $$ especially when we pay the damn tax.


thank you

FNG

[Bendersquint]

So I need a serviceable can, I plan to threat to the barrel on the 24mm front sight.

I have a liberty cosmic and mystic x in route, but would like dedicated supressors for 30cal and 545/556 I'd like to know the best couple options to look at for serviceable and in the best materials for longevity as its a semi auto. Dont mind if it QD or direct, I prefer Ti as its lighter and stronger overall than steel, and these days not much more $$ especially when we pay the damn tax.


thank you

FNG

Why does it have to be serviceable?

There really is no need for a serviceable rifle can....thats why its not a common option.

[doubloon]

Truth.

It is possible to wash corrosive salts out of the can without disassembly.

[Bendersquint]

Truth.

It is possible to wash corrosive salts out of the can without disassembly.

Just running water, and dry it out and done.

[savagetactical]

I would avoid titanium for a semi-auto carbine that you will run hard to moderate like a AK74 or 16" AR Carbine. Titanium is strong, but it degrades really fast when it gets hot. You can get away with a titanium tube made with conventional baffle materials (i.e. AAC Tirant and Silencerco Omega) for high use/high heat applications but a can with titanium baffles will literally start sending sparks of titanium out the front if it gets hot really fast. That's why you only see full titanium cans designed for Precision Bolt Action guns. Many of the new 30 cal made by Rugged, Dead Air, and Silencerco are really tuff and still under 20 oz. They would be your best bet.

[whiterussian1974]

It is possible to wash corrosive salts out of the can without disassembly.

Just running water, and dry it out and done.

Wouldn't coating it w oil b/f use and after cleaning be helpful at creating a protective coating?
I read that DOT 5 brake fluid was good. Is this true? Any downsides? Will it store well over months or yrs?

[Bendersquint]

It is possible to wash corrosive salts out of the can without disassembly.

Just running water, and dry it out and done.

Wouldn't coating it w oil b/f use and after cleaning be helpful at creating a protective coating?
I read that DOT 5 brake fluid was good. Is this true? Any downsides? Will it store well over months or yrs?

No it won't provide a complete protective coating unless you coated the entire baffle with it.

It would also smoke and burn like crazy when you shot it again.....just shoot it, rinse the bad salts out and drive on.

[doubloon]

What he said.

If you're feeling especially ambitious use some soap.

[Crash_pro]

Personally i wouldn't shoot that out of any of my silencers... I have an Adams Arms 5.45 upper and i shot a bunch of the corrosive stuff while doing some tactical rifle drills. When i got home i gave it a nice bath in warm soapy water in my bathtub, I was sure to clean it very well. Oiled it up and put it away. Came back a few months later and had bluish/green crap all over it! Thought the Nitride coating was supposed to resist all forms of corrosion. Anyways... after that i put the corrosive stuff away for a SHTF situation and I'll pay a little extra for the Silver Bear.

With that said i have Saker 7.62 and Saker K and i love them too much to shoot corrosive through them especially on a silencer you can't take apart and get into every nook and cranny.

[paragon50]

Would a little "Salt-X" help?



.

[Historian]

Really hot soapy water!

Shake, not stirred.

Rinse twice with hot water.

Let evaporate - hair dryer or heat lamp.

Above based on having shot many,many rounds of 'corrosive'*
.303 through my 1945 Long Branch sniper rifle ( took few days
to clean the cosmoline from this pristine unfired unit for first use).

Used Garand cleaning rod with patches as pistons drawing boiling
soapy water up and down.

Finished with patch and teflon oil.

Barrel shiny and new as first day.

* "Corrosive" is a misnomer. The powder is not corrosive. The
residue is Hygroscopic - absorbs water for folks in Rio Linda - and
must be washed away.

"Corrosive ammunition is ammunition that uses a primer
that has chemicals that when ignited leave a residue of corrosive salts.
Most often these primers have potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate
which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride
or sodium chloride" - Shooters Log