New to Handload

[jerry2003]

Hey guys i have some questions about hand loading my own ammo i know some of these questions might be stupid but I'm barely learning i want to load the basic 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP any help would be wonderful. Thanks

How can i load my own ammo that is less than 1000fps or even 950fps?

Which loader should i use? NOTE: I've heard a lot of people use the xl 650

Which is a good book or dvd that would get me started handloading?

[Abiqua]

Hey guys i have some questions about hand loading my own ammo i know some of these questions might be stupid but I'm barely learning i want to load the basic 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP any help would be wonderful. Thanks

How can i load my own ammo that is less than 1000fps or even 950fps?

Which loader should i use? NOTE: I've heard a lot of people use the xl 650

Which is a good book or dvd that would get me started handloading?

Heavy bullet loads like 147 or 158 grain 9mm are subsonic, as is 230 grain 45ACP.

Before you decide on which progressive press to get, figure out if you want to start with a progressive. After that you'll get plenty of advice on which mfr and model to go with. My advice is to find some experienced reloaders in your area and spend some time with them loading on different equipment and see what you like. Before I bought my 650 I took a reloading class that had one on the bench and I got some hands on first.

[Bendersquint]

Hey guys i have some questions about hand loading my own ammo i know some of these questions might be stupid but I'm barely learning i want to load the basic 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP any help would be wonderful. Thanks

How can i load my own ammo that is less than 1000fps or even 950fps?

Which loader should i use? NOTE: I've heard a lot of people use the xl 650

Which is a good book or dvd that would get me started handloading?

I would start with a single stage press till you learn what you are doing. Then move up to a 550 or a 650.

Buy a set of quality reloading manuals like those from Hornady, Lyman and Hodgdon. They will tell you a number of different loads.

Handloading is very rewarding if done properly.

[jerry2003]

Hey guys i have some questions about hand loading my own ammo i know some of these questions might be stupid but I'm barely learning i want to load the basic 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP any help would be wonderful. Thanks

How can i load my own ammo that is less than 1000fps or even 950fps?

Which loader should i use? NOTE: I've heard a lot of people use the xl 650

Which is a good book or dvd that would get me started handloading?

Heavy bullet loads like 147 or 158 grain 9mm are subsonic, as is 230 grain 45ACP.

Before you decide on which progressive press to get, figure out if you want to start with a progressive. After that you'll get plenty of advice on which mfr and model to go with. My advice is to find some experienced reloaders in your area and spend some time with them loading on different equipment and see what you like. Before I bought my 650 I took a reloading class that had one on the bench and I got some hands on first.

ohh ok so is the bullet that makes it subsonic thanks a lot for the help

[Ramius]

How many rounds do you expect to reload per session/month? XL650 with all the bells and whistles adds up quickly. It does a great job, but if you are looking at loading only 300 - 500 rounds/month it is overkill.

Start with "ABC's of Reloading" or a few reloading manuals. It will give you an idea of what is involved.

You can pick a powder that works in all three calibers (9mm/40/45ACP) and save a bit of headache.

[doubloon]

How many rounds do you expect to reload per session/month? XL650 with all the bells and whistles adds up quickly. ...

This.

Some quick and sketchy math.

I can get 147gr 9mm dropped on my doorstep for $0.28/rnd all day long

If you can get free brass you can maybe reload them for about $0.14/round yourself.

But the reality is you have to get brass from somewhere, either live ammo you bought and collected or once fired bulk brass. Using once fired stuff you're closer to $0.18 your first load but you'll get some of that cost back each time you use that brass again so maybe an average of $0.16/round for the life of the case.

You are saving about $0.12/round from the drop ship cost.

The cheapest single stage press kit I know of out there is the Lee kit for about $100 without dies, figure $30 for a set of dies. So you need to load a little over 1000 rounds to break even. Start saving pennies on your 2nd thousand.

A Dillon 650 with dies is around $600 ... 5000 rounds to break even, start saving pennies on your 6th thousand.

If you shoot a lot and a lot of calibers you can save some money.

[jerry2003]

i plan to shoot about 1,000 per month of 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP

i regret not saving the brass ive shot in the past but i guess ill buy about 1000 round of ammo of each calibre and save the brass.

i never knew that the bullet is what makes the ammo quieter thanks for all the help guys

I have about 500 rounds of 158gr Fiocchi so im planing on saving the brass for the 9mm reloads,

Does anyone know were i could buy bulk 158gr bullets?

How many times can i use the brass to reload until its no good??

[dbrown]

I started with a progressive and had 0 experience before starting. If cost isn't a big factor then I'd still go with a progressive. It is a good deal faster once you know what you're doing. If I was in your shoes, I would not want to load 1,000 9mm, 40, and 45 every month on a single stage. Dillons are supposedly great but I have no experience on one. I use a hornady LNL and it works well.

Re brass life...it depends. You just have to look at the brass to determine that. With my 308 subs I really didn't look at the brass until the 5th load. Probably not the smartest thing to do but they show no wear.

[doubloon]

I started with a progressive and had 0 experience before starting. If cost isn't a big factor then I'd still go with a progressive. ...

+1

Some progressives can be run single stage if you want so why waste money on throw away equipment?

You can get 1000 brass cases for about $30 I think.

Pistol rounds are relatively low pressure I've heard of people to reload their pistol brass until it splits or they lose them.

[Ramius]

That is going to be your call then. I buy 25,000 primers at a time and 32 lbs of powder (Powdervalley.com), that's the maximum you can get shipped under one HAZMAT charge.

With my Dillon 650, I will sit down and load 3-5k rounds of handgun in an afternoon. I can load handgun at a comfortable pace of about 800 rounds/hour.

To streamline things you will need to buy multiple toolheads, dies, I got accessories like large and small primer filling stations, low powder sensor, feed trays, etc, so your overall cost is going to be closer to $1200 for the press.

I buy bullets by the case => 8 cases of bullets from Montanagoldbullet.com (each case of 115gr 9mm is 4000 bullets).

So my total cost for reloading works out to something ridiculous like $2.25 for 338LM, $0.35 for 308 Match, $0.08 for 223, $0.10 for 40, $0.12 for 45, etc.

The thing is you will need to factor in the value of your time. There are situations when I just can't spare the hours to reload. If I can get someone to spring for the ammo, I have more free time

[Hush]

Hey guys i have some questions about hand loading my own ammo i know some of these questions might be stupid but I'm barely learning i want to load the basic 9mm, 40s&w, 45ACP any help would be wonderful. Thanks

How can i load my own ammo that is less than 1000fps or even 950fps?

Which loader should i use? NOTE: I've heard a lot of people use the xl 650

Which is a good book or dvd that would get me started handloading?

I would start with a single stage press till you learn what you are doing. Then move up to a 550 or a 650.

Buy a set of quality reloading manuals like those from Hornady, Lyman and Hodgdon. They will tell you a number of different loads.

Handloading is very rewarding if done properly.

Ditto. I would also add that you should pick up an electronic powder scale, they are relatively inexpensive today and easier to use then a beam scale which can be misread.

[Bendersquint]

I would start with a single stage press till you learn what you are doing. Then move up to a 550 or a 650.

Buy a set of quality reloading manuals like those from Hornady, Lyman and Hodgdon. They will tell you a number of different loads.

Handloading is very rewarding if done properly.

Ditto. I would also add that you should pick up an electronic powder scale, they are relatively inexpensive today and easier to use then a beam scale which can be misread.

I disagree, he should start with and have on hand a beam scale but can rapidly upgrade to an electronic one.

Gotta understand the basics before you get all technically savvy. I use an electronic 95% of the time but have the beam as a verification. There is alot of things that can affect the digital scale.

[jerry2003]

Thanks guys for all the help I'm getting to learn more and more about reloading but I don't really learn until I actually try it.

I see ammo that is 147 gr that is 960fps and on a different brand that is 147 gr is 990 fps why is that???

[doubloon]

Thanks guys for all the help I'm getting to learn more and more about reloading but I don't really learn until I actually try it.

I see ammo that is 147 gr that is 960fps and on a different brand that is 147 gr is 990 fps why is that???

Because it's not JUST the bullet.

The powder, the charge, the rifling, the twist and the length all play a role in muzzle velocity.

While it may be true as a general rule when playing with 9mm and 45ACP that 147gr and 230gr respectively will predominantly remain subsonic to -B-'s point a double charge could (best case) make a supersonic load. It would be impossible to double charge some powders in a 9mm case but I believe there are a few that make it easy.

Most people who have cut their teeth on reloading the hard way have ended up pulling bullets out of 1000, 2000, 5000 rounds maybe more because they completely screwed up on a progressive press without an appreciation for the basics.

I'm not saying it isn't possible to successfully start reloading life on a progressive press because people do it all the time. I'm just recommending to look for a progressive press that can be run single stage.

[Bendersquint]

Thanks guys for all the help I'm getting to learn more and more about reloading but I don't really learn until I actually try it.

I see ammo that is 147 gr that is 960fps and on a different brand that is 147 gr is 990 fps why is that???

Because it's not JUST the bullet.

The powder, the charge, the rifling, the twist and the length all play a role in muzzle velocity.

While it may be true as a general rule when playing with 9mm and 45ACP that 147gr and 230gr respectively will predominantly remain subsonic to -B-'s point a double charge could (best case) make a supersonic load. It would be impossible to double charge some powders in a 9mm case but I believe there are a few that make it easy.

Most people who have cut their teeth on reloading the hard way have ended up pulling bullets out of 1000, 2000, 5000 rounds maybe more because they completely screwed up on a progressive press without an appreciation for the basics.

I'm not saying it isn't possible to successfully start reloading life on a progressive press because people do it all the time. I'm just recommending to look for a progressive press that can be run single stage.

To expand on Doubloon's post.....the brand and type of bullet can determine the speed as well, even how clean the barrel is.

The OP needs to know exactly what each operation does. That way when its missed r doesn't happen right in the progressive he can recognize it and correct it instead of picking pieces of Glock slide from his face because he has a kaboom, hypothetical but it IS the level of seriousness this needs to be taken. I started life with a Hornady Single Stage. I graduated to a 550B, looking for a 650XL now. The single stage now processes all my rifle brass that I load on the 550B so still using what I started with!

[Todd Is]

Bullet weight really has nothing to do with being subsonic, especially if you roll your own. IE, a 90 grain slug from a 9mm can be reduced to slingshot velocity if one so desires. Ammo mfg's hafto abide by strict velocity to weight ratios to maintain proper functioning of said weapons.

In my Lee manual, (page 94) under squib loads, it says charges as small as one grain of Bullseye can be used. Might I add, you 'need' to get your own manual and go by it, not what is said on the internet. Only certain powders you can get by with doing that.

I can attest that getting a bullet stuck in a bore is not much fun, but to me, the idea of customizing your own loads/velocities is what reloading is all about.

Another thing, it doesn't matter if x is 970 fps and y is 990 fps. Even meticulous reloading - exact powder charges, same primers, wall thickness, etc etc, your velocity from a finished batch is going to have some spread. And probably more than 20fps

[Bendersquint]

If you are going to experiment AT ALL with changing documented loads you need a chronograph watch the speeds and watch for danger signs as you reduce.

[jerry2003]

Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.


Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45

[Bendersquint]

Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.

Do y'all know a good DVD or book that could teach the basics of reloading and about the velocity, powder, brass, ect.???

Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45

Most reloading manuals have instructions in it. When I started I started with the Hornady Single Stage Lock and Load kit, included every single thing you need to get started minus dies and shell holder. The Hornady Reloading Manual that I buy every year has a large section on how to do it. I learned with that manual and nothing more(before Al Gore's internet became what it is today).

Lots of trial and praying for little errors and lots and lots of pulled bullets!

Good luck, be safe and don't hesitate to ask questions!

[doubloon]

If you are going to experiment AT ALL with changing documented loads you need a chronograph watch the speeds and watch for danger signs as you reduce.

+1

[doubloon]

Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.

Do y'all know a good DVD or book that could teach the basics of reloading and about the velocity, powder, brass, ect.???

Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45

Yep, it's a steep learning curve but not extremely tall.

Don't know about DVDs but plenty of reputable equipment vendors provide online resources.

Here's an example of what RCBS provides

http://www.rcbs.com/guide/#basics

http://www.rcbs.com/guide/#videos

[Abiqua]

Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.


Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45

There's no saving any money, you just get to shoot more.

[Bendersquint]

Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.


Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45

There's no saving any money, you just get to shoot more.

Very true, when i started it was to save money and have it be cheaper, that didn't happen AT ALL. I don't save money, it probably costs me more now!

[dbrown]

[quote="Bendersquint"][quote="Abiqua"][quote="jerry2003"]Thanks guys for the info but it's alot to take in but it seems like fun and very interesting the art of reloading that why I wanted to start doing it also to save $$$ at the same time.


Basically I want to load my own ammo so I could shoot it on my osprey 45 that I'm waiting from ATF so I want to be a pro by time I get my osprey 45[/quote]

There's no saving any money, you just get to shoot more.[/quote]

Very true, when i started it was to save money and have it be cheaper, that didn't happen AT ALL. I don't save money, it probably costs me more now![/quote]

This.

Get a progressive and read some. One of the most helpful things for me was watching a YouTube video of a guy reloading 45acp on his hornady lock n load progressive. That video sold me on why I should go with a progressive over a single stage.

[Bendersquint]

[

This.

Get a progressive and read some. One of the most helpful things for me was watching a YouTube video of a guy reloading 45acp on his hornady lock n load progressive. That video sold me on why I should go with a progressive over a single stage.

THe probability of producing unsafe ammo is phenomenally higher when you start with a progressive rather than learning on a single stage and upgrading even a few months later. Not like single stages are expensive, you can get a Hornady setup for around $300 I believe and a Less for even cheaper.

Much safer to learn slow then speed up rather then starting fast, seen way to many duds and overcharges at the range due to not taking your time to learn what you are doing and hurrying to get as much loaded as possible.