Hello, I have an Evo-9 from about 2007. I have been using it on a rifle with the fixed-insert in it, but now I want to put it back on my GLOCK. I can easily unscrew the rear end-cap that accesses the piston and spring, and I was also easily able to shake out the fixed spacer. However, I cannot seem to get the piston to budge, and I'm concerned that even though I can drop the spring in on top of it and replace the rear end-cap, that it won't function as a booster with the piston stuck.
I've tried spraying various solvents into it hoping that it was just an excessive amount of Carbon-fouling, but that doesn't to have made any difference.
How to get it unstuck? TIA
Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
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- chrismartin
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Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
Did you try using a barrel screwed on to the extension to help with leverage?
It's most likely carbon build up behind the piston. I found that "DUB WHEEL CLEANER" really helps with carbon build up, however, I don't know it's affects on Aluminum. I've only used it on steel silencer mounts.
It's most likely carbon build up behind the piston. I found that "DUB WHEEL CLEANER" really helps with carbon build up, however, I don't know it's affects on Aluminum. I've only used it on steel silencer mounts.
Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
I have, but I'll try again. And I'll see if I can squirt a little more of something in there. Just wondering if I was alone in this issue, and if other people had it, what they did to resolve it. Thanks for the reply.chrismartin wrote:Did you try using a barrel screwed on to the extension to help with leverage?
It's most likely carbon build up behind the piston. I found that "DUB WHEEL CLEANER" really helps with carbon build up, however, I don't know it's affects on Aluminum. I've only used it on steel silencer mounts.
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Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
Is the carbon built-up, a lot? Are you able to chip the majority off?
Have you tried some impact jarring, w/ a hardened punch?
Have you tried using a mini torch, to localize some heat, when trying to remove?
Have you tried lacquer thinner? I've used it on various engine components (disassembled) and it takes carbon deposits right off (after soaking).
Obviously, make sure it won't ruin any materials or finishes.
Can you disassemble the booster portion enough to get a gear puller on it?
My company sells a proprietary chemical which is marketed, specifically, to reduce and remove slag deposits inside of industrial boilers. Unfortunately, it works best at temps near 2400*F. Not sure you'll have a suppressor after that
Have you tried some impact jarring, w/ a hardened punch?
Have you tried using a mini torch, to localize some heat, when trying to remove?
Have you tried lacquer thinner? I've used it on various engine components (disassembled) and it takes carbon deposits right off (after soaking).
Obviously, make sure it won't ruin any materials or finishes.
Can you disassemble the booster portion enough to get a gear puller on it?
My company sells a proprietary chemical which is marketed, specifically, to reduce and remove slag deposits inside of industrial boilers. Unfortunately, it works best at temps near 2400*F. Not sure you'll have a suppressor after that
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- chrismartin
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Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
My Evo piston has gotten tight, but not locked in like that.TROOPER wrote: I have, but I'll try again. And I'll see if I can squirt a little more of something in there. Just wondering if I was alone in this issue, and if other people had it, what they did to resolve it. Thanks for the reply.
If you can get it out 1/4" or so (past the piston index pin thing), you can probably spin the piston and use it as a grinder to loosen up the carbon build up.
Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
Many apologies; it isn't the piston that's stuck, it's the fixed spacer. On the contrary, I can wiggle the piston a little bit, but the fixed-spacer seems tight in there, and is neither falling out freely, nor allowing the piston to move out. It's kind of good news, because it practically guarantees that it's a simple matter of fouling, carbon, grit, ash... call it what you will, but it's just tight in there.
I'm considering leaving the silencer submerged in a solvent to a depth of ~ 1.5 inches to see if I can do chemically what I can't do with physical force. Barring that, I'm having difficulty conceptualizing how I could use pliers in this situation. There seems to be nothing to grasp onto, plus the piston itself is in the way.
No matter. I'm confident that this is something I can get solved because I'm confident that the whole issue is fixed on the presence of accumulated crud as opposed to warped or deformed hardware.
I'm considering leaving the silencer submerged in a solvent to a depth of ~ 1.5 inches to see if I can do chemically what I can't do with physical force. Barring that, I'm having difficulty conceptualizing how I could use pliers in this situation. There seems to be nothing to grasp onto, plus the piston itself is in the way.
No matter. I'm confident that this is something I can get solved because I'm confident that the whole issue is fixed on the presence of accumulated crud as opposed to warped or deformed hardware.
Re: Evo-9, piston stuck - seeking help
All done.
There was a LOT of carbon in there. The ultimate combination which got this free was a three-part solution:
1 - solvent/lube. I used "Super Slick Slick Stuff", but I think "Liquid Wrench" or possibly even WD-40 would've worked fine. The only important quality of whatever is sprayed in there is that it get in, so 10W-30 motor oil probably wouldn't have worked.
2 - Time. Probably no real substitute for this. It just takes time for the lube/solvent to work. I suspect that if you wanted to cut out this ingredient, you'd need more of #3.
3 - Since the piston was in it, I was able to apply firm pulling pressure using a Lone Wolf threaded barrel that I had laying about. Bonus: I got a reminder of how weak my rear-delts are.
Hopefully if someone else gets in this position, they'll read this and be relatively squared away.
----- ETA -----
"Super Slick Slick Stuff" can be bought online, or off-the-shelf from Lowe's. I haven't seen it anywhere else besides Lowe's. I've been very satisfied with the lube from a general-use standpoint, although its use on firearms may be limited since it runs so easily (it's not a grease), and I don't know what kind of heat-tolerance it has.
There was a LOT of carbon in there. The ultimate combination which got this free was a three-part solution:
1 - solvent/lube. I used "Super Slick Slick Stuff", but I think "Liquid Wrench" or possibly even WD-40 would've worked fine. The only important quality of whatever is sprayed in there is that it get in, so 10W-30 motor oil probably wouldn't have worked.
2 - Time. Probably no real substitute for this. It just takes time for the lube/solvent to work. I suspect that if you wanted to cut out this ingredient, you'd need more of #3.
3 - Since the piston was in it, I was able to apply firm pulling pressure using a Lone Wolf threaded barrel that I had laying about. Bonus: I got a reminder of how weak my rear-delts are.
Hopefully if someone else gets in this position, they'll read this and be relatively squared away.
----- ETA -----
"Super Slick Slick Stuff" can be bought online, or off-the-shelf from Lowe's. I haven't seen it anywhere else besides Lowe's. I've been very satisfied with the lube from a general-use standpoint, although its use on firearms may be limited since it runs so easily (it's not a grease), and I don't know what kind of heat-tolerance it has.