Newbie forum 1 build questions for ar15 223/556 with force reset trigger.

[Loganjames492]

Just submitted finger prints on a silencer shop kiosk and payed for stamp for a forum 1 and 4. Waiting for approval so thought I'd try to learn as much as I can. My cousin owns a machine shop so he will be doing most the work. I'm wanting to build a suppressor for a ar15 with a force reset trigger. I'm about to buy a 14.5 inch mid length faxon barrel. Was wanting to build a quick attachment with muzzle brake to use as the blast chamber. I got on comp cams website and found 10° 4140 steel valve spring retainers that have black oxide for corrosion and are heat treated. Fail rate is 1700-2000 °f. (I won't be mag dumping mag after mag). Planning on using 223 caliber. Bolt is 158 Carpenter steel full auto capable. Now with that being said here are my questions.
1st question is would it be smart to go with midlength or go Carbine length? Was planning on buying and adjustable gas block as well for either one.
2nd. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use as spacers?
3rd. I've been doing the best research as I can and everyone's opinions are different for 223/556 some say more baffles while decreasing spaces toward front tip & but also hear less baffles more spacers.... since it'll have a frt what do you guys think? I've seen cut outs of professional builds and they varies with both options. I know 223 won't be movie quiet but I'd like to make it as quiet as I can. Which brings me to next ?
4th. Bore diameter. I read somewhere doing 30 cal diameter with 556 front cap reduces chance of baffle strike. (Like I said I'm new) so sorry if that was bad info. But let me know what you guys think when running with frt.
5th. Length... I'm very open to any length. Whatever makes it quiet and still be able to shoot accurately (sorta) at 100 yards.
I'll leave it there for now since I'm already asking so many questions. I know people will say "wait for your forum 4" but I know there's someone out there whose got expierence to where a built can will last longer. If you guys think the valve spring retainers are a bad idea I guess I could have my cousin make k baffles, but really wanted to use those because of how hot they can get. Thanks in advance!

[mr fixit]

Just submitted finger prints on a silencer shop kiosk and payed for stamp for a forum 1 and 4. Waiting for approval so thought I'd try to learn as much as I can. My cousin owns a machine shop so he will be doing most the work
First be aware on a form 1 you have to do the work or physically be present when the parts are being worked on. When you leave you have to take the parts with you, whether they are complete or not doesn't matter. You as the Form 1 builder must maintain control of the parts at all times.

I'm wanting to build a suppressor for a ar15 with a force reset trigger. I'm about to buy a 14.5 inch mid length faxon barrel. Was wanting to build a quick attachment with muzzle brake to use as the blast chamber. I got on comp cams website and found 10° 4140 steel valve spring retainers that have black oxide for corrosion and are heat treated. Fail rate is 1700-2000 °f. (I won't be mag dumping mag after mag)
Flat or almost flat (10*) baffles are not what you want for 5.56/.223. Cone baffles for supersonic high pressure rounds.

Planning on using 223 caliber. Bolt is 158 Carpenter steel full auto capable. Now with that being said here are my questions.
1st question is would it be smart to go with midlength or go Carbine length? Was planning on buying and adjustable gas block as well for either one.
With an adjustable gas block it shouldn't matter, you'll tune it either way.

2nd. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use as spacers?
You said your cousin had a machine shop. Assuming you do it legally (be there) have him make cone baffles with integral skirts.
You wont need spacers

3rd. I've been doing the best research as I can and everyone's opinions are different for 223/556 some say more baffles while decreasing spaces toward front tip & but also hear less baffles more spacers.... since it'll have a frt what do you guys think? I've seen cut outs of professional builds and they varies with both options. I know 223 won't be movie quiet but I'd like to make it as quiet as I can. Which brings me to next ?
The very best super duper ne plus ultra suppressor with the most suppression will make an AR15 sound like an unsuppressed .22 down range and will still be loud at the shooters ear. No matter what anyone says about their suppressor none of them are actually hearing safe. Many people say that but what they really mean is 'i dont mind the noise level" or "I feel comfortable shooting without additional hearing protection".
But truth is that it is still louder than the level of hearing safe. Having said that, a good recipe for a .556 can would be about 7" overall, about 7 60* cone baffles. The spacing is a matter of preference and whether you use static spacing or varied spacing it will likely make about as much differnce in sound as changing ammo or temperature will make sound wise. My preference is if you are going to do varied spacing have more space at the are end near the exit. Also clip the cones.

4th. Bore diameter. I read somewhere doing 30 cal diameter with 556 front cap reduces chance of baffle strike. (Like I said I'm new) so sorry if that was bad info. But let me know what you guys think when running with frt.
I have no idea what difference a trigger of any flavor will make regarding the bore diameter. general advice is .060" over bullet diameter of you can make quality parts and make sure threading on barrel is concentric to bore. Now, lots of people (myself included) will use a 30 caliber can on .556.

5th. Length... I'm very open to any length. Whatever makes it quiet and still be able to shoot accurately (sorta) at 100 yards.
See above

I'll leave it there for now since I'm already asking so many questions. I know people will say "wait for your forum 4" but I know there's someone out there whose got expierence to where a built can will last longer. If you guys think the valve spring retainers are a bad idea I guess I could have my cousin make k baffles, but really wanted to use those because of how hot they can get. Thanks in advance!
As stated above, Cones for supersonic rifles. K's are for pistols and .22, although cones are used for those as well.
Regarding material choices:

• Aluminum is only for subsonic and rimfire.
  Steel 4140/4130, when heat treated is great for rifles. it will corrode but the barrel is the same material.
  Stainless Steel - probably most popular. 17-4 is probably king for Form 1 builds.
  Titanium - Grade 5 for baffles, grade 9 for tubes. Best when lightweight is the desire.

[Loganjames492]

Thank you so much! Yes I won't have him machine anything until I get a approved stamp in hand. Thanks for putting in the time to reply. I'll take your advice forsure and not go flat but with cone!

[Capt. Link.]

Don't forget to feed the trolls on a snow day for the feds.

[mr fixit]

Don't forget to feed the trolls on a snow day for the feds.

You are probably right, he sent me a private message wanting me to help him pick out parts from some solvent trap site.