baffle spacing??
baffle spacing??
on a .22 can with "flat washers" as baffles is there any rule of thumb as to how much space should between them?
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- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 2:23 pm
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- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 2:23 pm
As just about everything else in life its a trade off, you can space them half an inch apart, it would be more efficient but then you will have all that extra weight.canenvy wrote:would that be most efficient?Hush wrote:You could space them @ 1 inch intervals.
Actually if you want more efficiency I'd use stainless steel washers, they won't rust and SS is softer so you can shape them, even a slight funnel shape is better than just a flat washer, see the freezer plug thread where the fellow used a ball bearing and socket to shape the freezer plugs.
Actually for a .22 you can use 1x7 inch tube.
A really efficient design for a rifle would be 1x10 with baffle spaced every inch, you would only hear the firing pin strike and bullet impact with a bolt action rifle, the problem is it might be too big for a hand gun.
Demand stringent background and mental health checks on your politicians.
well i dont care about size just how it sounds. so i guess ill go 1.5x10 with a 1.0 spacing. what do you think?Hush wrote:As just about everything else in life its a trade off, you can space them half an inch apart, it would be more efficient but then you will have all that extra weight.canenvy wrote:would that be most efficient?Hush wrote:You could space them @ 1 inch intervals.
Actually if you want more efficiency I'd use stainless steel washers, they won't rust and SS is softer so you can shape them, even a slight funnel shape is better than just a flat washer, see the freezer plug thread where the fellow used a ball bearing and socket to shape the freezer plugs.
Actually for a .22 you can use 1x7 inch tube.
A really efficient design for a rifle would be 1x10 with baffle spaced every inch, you would only hear the firing pin strike and bullet impact with a bolt action rifle, the problem is it might be too big for a hand gun.
Well if you really want to go with a 1.5 inch diameter tube 7 or 8 inches should be fine, your making up in width for the length as far as volume goes if you catch my drift.
Plus with a wider can you might have to go with higher scope mounts to obtain a clear sight picture, on a pistol you won't be able to use the sights.
Plus with a wider can you might have to go with higher scope mounts to obtain a clear sight picture, on a pistol you won't be able to use the sights.
Demand stringent background and mental health checks on your politicians.
How do you intend to attach it to the muzzle? What application? Rifle? Pistol? If you're putting it on a 10/22 with bull barrel and don't have much in the way of tooling, you may be able to find tubing that is a tight slip fit over the barrel as your starting point and find washers to fit. In the latter application, assuming a roughly .920" ID, you could probably get by with about 6-7", measured forward from the muzzle, a primary expansion chamber of 1-1.5 inch and subsequent baffles spaced at .75" intervals. Using 1.5" OD tubing simply because it's free is false economy considering you have to pay $200 tax just for the privilege of building it...once. You DO have your Form 1 right? As Hush says, cup 'em if you can. Also, if this is your first attempt, go a bit larger with the baffle holes, 9/32-5/16. The slight reduction in suppresion is better than launching your $200 experiment into orbit because of a baffle strike.
"I'm from the government...I'm here to help."
you guys are right im paying 200 for the stamp i might aswell have the quietest can possible. i talked with a local machine shop and they said as long as i have my forum 1 in hand and there when they make it they will make me what ever i want. so here are the specs i made for a k baffle. let me know what you guys think.
im going to try the d-cell mag light as a tube its alot less then having the tube threaded.
im going to try the d-cell mag light as a tube its alot less then having the tube threaded.
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- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 2:23 pm
Looks good , I would make the flat face about twice as thick so you can make a concave in it with a small cone type hole in the front that way it makes for a bit more of a ramp with the mouse hole , I had some of the clowns at work run this desgine through some flow chart program and it realy help disrupt the gas flow.
kinda like this one but I dicked it up and cut a little to much out of the nose
kinda like this one but I dicked it up and cut a little to much out of the nose