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tacticalsniper3
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need help choosing a knife

Post by tacticalsniper3 »

i need some help with choosing a knife for everyday carry. i was looking at a Gerber Torch I Tanto and was wondering if that would be a good knife to carry with me. or do anyone have any knives they would recommend.

and also could i get an opinion on the Ontario Knife Company Ka Bar
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Post by st33ve0 »

For EDC I carry an Al Mar SERE 2000 for utility use and a Spyderco Endura 4 for defense [never cut anything with it and I have a trainer for it]. I would definitely recommend either of them. Before I got these I carried a Gerber, but it all comes down to your price range. Ontario Knife Company Ka Bars are good to go, just stay away from the Spax :wink:
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Post by RX7-2nr »

ive carried a SOG Flash II for probably 3 years. it might not be as high-speed as a fancy strider or microtech, but it has always done everything ive ever needed it to do. i think it cost me about $50. the assisted opening is rediculously fast, and the one hand operation is convenient. i sharpen it with a Lansky, and it holds the edge great. its got a lock on it to stop the blade from opening in your pocket, but i never use the lock and the blade has never opened in my pocket. its also got a pocket clip which holds it firmly in place.

i once snagged the pocket clip on a seat belt and bent it, it broke when i tried to bent it back. i emailed SOG and they sent me a new clip free of charge.

Image
my USP, filthy from my holster filling partially with sand, and the SOG. yes, i know- i forgot to put the thread protector back on.

i got the half serrated drop point, but they make it with a few different points and blade/handle finishes, you can even get it with an aluminum handle as opposed to the standard zytel.
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Post by JohnInNH »

I carry a SMALL Al Mar Liner lock with a sharpened blade of 2.75" of VG10 Steel (my FAVORITE SS, with D2 at 60+ being my #1 non Damascus steel) or one of my small butterfly knives with a blade less than 3" (134CM)

I do not like AUS-8. I do not like the way it sharpens and holds an edge it is tough and resists chipping and snapping so is used in heavy work knives. ...

440 sucks I HATE 420HC (buck knife)

CPM-D2 at 60+ rc (will rust and stain but is WONDERFUL!)
also A-2 tool steel

A GOOD modern Damascus, are even better. A VG10 layered blade with a core of Coery X at 66-68rc :) It will hold an edge 2x longer than ATS-34 at 59-60rc, but the cheaper Damascus with a VG10 core at 59-61rc are excellent. I like Mike Norris Stainless Damascus 59-60rc. William Henry has some amazing Damascus blades.

Look for:

VG-10 59-61 rc
134-CM
ATS-134

Or for non stainless D2 is beautiful stuff.

I have a few customs and the VG10 steel impresses the hell out of me an like then better than ATS-34

I am very tempted to get the A.G. Russell Part #K87CW-S at $425 or the K87CW at $295 Both have the same Cowray 66-68 rc Damascus blade. The more expensive one has the Stag panels.


VG10 sharpens easily and stays sharp. I like to keep my knives hair popping sharp. A Hollow ground VG10 at 60rc will sharpen easily and it holds an edge.

My Al Mar is NOT hollow ground so it is a stronger edge but still sharpens fairly easily and holds an edge well.

I have a 3" butterfly knife with D2 steel & TI liners, and LOVE that. But some places frown on them... I collect them and have some very nice first production/limited runs.

You can find a GOOD blade for a reasonable price but look closely at the blade material Rockwell hardness and the locking system.

Most is personal preference. I like drop point or an almost straight blade. Any reverse curve is hard to sharpen. If you need to use a Lansky system find a blade that has flats for it to grip/mount that extent at least 1/2 way on the blade.

Get what you like but make sure you get a good blade material at a decent RC#. Don't use a 60rc+ knife as a pry bar. That's what a screwdriver is for. LOL

This is a pocket knife not a camp or hunting knife. Never underestimate the damage a 2.5" razor sharp blade can do. :shock:
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Post by chrismartin »

I have carried a Kershaw Leek since 2004. It's bee great. I just bought my second last month because Costco was running an online sale ($37 shipped for the stainless leek)

It has held an edge well, been very tough, fast to open and has worked for me for everything.
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Post by st33ve0 »

JohnInNH wrote:I carry a SMALL Al Mar Liner lock with a sharpened blade of 2.75" of VG10 Steel (my FAVORITE SS, with D2 at 60+ being my #1 non Damascus steel) or one of my small butterfly knives with a blade less than 3" (134CM)

I do not like AUS-8. I do not like the way it sharpens and holds an edge it is tough and resists chipping and snapping so is used in heavy work knives. ...

440 sucks I HATE 420HC (buck knife)

CPM-D2 at 60+ rc (will rust and stain but is WONDERFUL!)
also A-2 tool steel

A GOOD modern Damascus, are even better. A VG10 layered blade with a core of Coery X at 66-68rc :) It will hold an edge 2x longer than ATS-34 at 59-60rc, but the cheaper Damascus with a VG10 core at 59-61rc are excellent. I like Mike Norris Stainless Damascus 59-60rc. William Henry has some amazing Damascus blades.

Look for:

VG-10 59-61 rc
134-CM
ATS-134

Or for non stainless D2 is beautiful stuff.

I have a few customs and the VG10 steel impresses the hell out of me an like then better than ATS-34

I am very tempted to get the A.G. Russell Part #K87CW-S at $425 or the K87CW at $295 Both have the same Cowray 66-68 rc Damascus blade. The more expensive one has the Stag panels.


VG10 sharpens easily and stays sharp. I like to keep my knives hair popping sharp. A Hollow ground VG10 at 60rc will sharpen easily and it holds an edge.

My Al Mar is NOT hollow ground so it is a stronger edge but still sharpens fairly easily and holds an edge well.

I have a 3" butterfly knife with D2 steel & TI liners, and LOVE that. But some places frown on them... I collect them and have some very nice first production/limited runs.

You can find a GOOD blade for a reasonable price but look closely at the blade material Rockwell hardness and the locking system.

Most is personal preference. I like drop point or an almost straight blade. Any reverse curve is hard to sharpen. If you need to use a Lansky system find a blade that has flats for it to grip/mount that extent at least 1/2 way on the blade.

Get what you like but make sure you get a good blade material at a decent RC#. Don't use a 60rc+ knife as a pry bar. That's what a screwdriver is for. LOL

This is a pocket knife not a camp or hunting knife. Never underestimate the damage a 2.5" razor sharp blade can do. :shock:
Both of my carry knives are VG10 although my AutoSERE is S30V. The liners on my SERE 2000 are 440C...lol I would never carry a knife with the blade made from 440C. O1 will also hold up pretty well but my favorites are 154CM and D2.
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Post by tacticalsniper3 »

as of right now i carry a cheap chinese no name brand quick open knife, and it doesnt hold an edge to good but i mainly use it to cut plasticwraps and open packages. it used about 100 times a day and i usually put the edge back on it at night.

my dad recommended the kabar for hunting and camping which is what i was going to do. what are opinions on the Columbia River M16 Series knives?
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Post by stevejobs »

Out The Side: ProTech Godfather
Out The Front: Microtech Scarab

It doesn't get any better.
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Post by JcJ »

tacticalsniper3 wrote:what are opinions on the Columbia River M16 Series knives?
The cheap end of the m16's are marginally better than what you're carrying now, I can't speak for the higher end of the line.
I carry the $19.99 Wallyworld m16 because I cant seem to not lose my knife at least once a week and it's mostly used for opening boxes.
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Post by chrismartin »

tacticalsniper3 wrote:What are opinions on the Columbia River M16 Series knives?
I own the CRKT M16-13 Zytel, M1 and Point Guard.
Of these I like them in this order: Point Guard, M16, M1.
The M1 is very sturdy and smooth, my only complaint is that it has a very thick blade, which makes using it daily, as I do, difficult (cutting card board, etc.) I keep it in my laptop bag.
The M16 that I have is not smooth to open, the blade pivot screw is shoddy. I do like the size, but it's thick. It stays on my desk at work as a backup for when I can't find my PG or Leek.
The Point Guard (I don't think they make this one) is thin with a thinner blade than the M1A and VERY smooth.

I have combo (partially serrated) edges on the M1 and M16 and a drop point on the PG and my Leeks.

None of these are as good as my Leek's though as far as how I use them (daily carry, functional usage cutting boxes, opening things, etc.)
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Post by JohnInNH »

stevejobs wrote:Out The Side: ProTech Godfather
Out The Front: Microtech Scarab

It doesn't get any better.
My custom fell out of my pocket and hit my nurf bar on the truck... I Thought I heard something clink... did not see anything on the ground.... It bounced UNDER the truck.... Some person made out on THAT! I just about cried. I loved that little knife.

Cost almost as almost as much as my Evo-9. ;) I usually NEVER carry my Microtech's out of the house. But forgot I had it .... The pocket clip caught on my truck seat and it pulled it out of my back pocket. :-(

I can not justify the cost of another to replace it. I have a butterfly knife made by Microtech. One NIB, and another as a user. 154-cm and TI. A Mike Tuber "Tachyon" serial numbered.
http://www.balisongcollector.com/tachyon1.html

I am so used to the 3" butterfly knives (my personal favorites) the bigger ones feel huge and slow. My Monarch weighs a ton. It's a weapon CLOSED. LOL But has a beautiful thick hollow ground blade.

I "lost" my favorite and first 3" SS handled Balisong ... 15 years later my wife found it in the garden when turning over the soil .. I fell out of the belt case while I was mowing the field before she put the garden in.

I washed it and cleaned it .. some oil and it's like the day I lost it. I love it when things come back to you. :-)
Last edited by JohnInNH on Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by tacticalsniper3 »

i was looking at the Columbia River M16® -14SF Special Forces Knife Big Dog and the Desert Big Dog. my dad has a columbia river and he loves it. but i like heft in a knife, that way i know its there and if i have to slice through stuff i just glide it and it does the work.

one last thing, what would be a good sharpening system for under $50
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Post by steve7478 »

Have had my Desert Cruiser CRKT clipped in my pocket for over 3 years. I use it everyday for everything. Had to put a clean edge on it twice and it is about due for another. Still tight and smooth. Slight surface rust on the metal inserts in the handle otherwise good to go. Cheap and reliable.
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Post by MisterWilson »

Google "Chris Reeve Sebenza".

Or better yet, let me help.


But if you didn't want to spend that much, it's REALLY hard not to get your money's worth out of a Spyderco "Military"... or ANY Spyderco for that matter.
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Post by sweett »

I love my CRKT Hattsu folder it has a big handle and is heavy but it always works and keeps an edge.
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Post by RX7-2nr »

JohnInNH wrote:Cost almost as almost as much as my Evo-9. ;) I usually NEVER carry my Microtech's out of the house. But forgot I had it .... The pocket clip caught on my truck seat and it pulled it out of my back pocket. :-(
any knife that is expensive enough that i wouldnt want to take it out of the house isnt worth s--t to me. is it neat? yeah, but in the end a knife is a tool and is meant to be used.

thats like building a custom rifle, then not shooting it because you dont want to dirty the barrel. :roll:
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Post by steve7478 »

I agree that expensive pocket knifes are cool, but completely useless if they never leave the house.

I would freak out if my $400 pocket knife got scratched or the blade galled.

CRKT won me over. They are as tough as expensive blades but cheap enough to not be afraid to use it everyday. Plus I really like the knife, not just the price.
There is an 11 to 17 minute response time to a 911 call. You can either choose to put effective rounds on target, neutralizing the threat, or try to find a telephone. The person who killed you while you were dialing 911 will have enough time to cook a frozen pizza before the "Badged Historians" show up to draw the chalk line.
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Post by JohnInNH »

Some knives are for collecting...

I would not touch the edge of a William Henry $1,100 custom with a stone at it would devalue it. With a 50 piece limited run "piece of jewelery" it's a collector piece. not an EDC.

I like good tools which is why I look for the steel and rc # of the blade. I wanted a Bob Dosier small drop point D2.... back years ago and found a knife which was exactly like I wanted except it had 440C blade. I paid $45 for it instead of the $200+ which I should have done.

I still have it. It is a Browning. It is a PITA to sharpen and does not hold an edge. I use it to open pellet fuel bags and it sits on the mantelpiece over the pellet stove. It will hold an edge if I just cut the plastic bags :roll:

I later got a SV30 rc61,Ats-34 and other good blades realized the insane difference the blade material makes. Yep the Made in china thrift outlet $2.50 socket set works but it's not like good tools. I have cracked, broken, or had ratchets just freeze from there .. they are disposable. IMHO.

Now I am picky. I misplace my car keys more often than my pocket knife so I like to have one with a good blade material and a SAFE locking system. You can get a GOOD pocket knife for about $100 or less. If you are using it fro heavy work to me it's not a pocket knife but a belt pouch knife and AUS8 might be what you want.

I have an old Cold Steel recon TANTO which is thick strong, splits wood with a hammer sharpens fairly well (New ones are AUS8A) well and holds an edge.. opens cans etc. Some folders are good for heavy work...

2 different tools for different jobs If your EDC needs to cut metal pallet banding and open cans to me that's not for a EDC pocket knife but a heaver belt pouch knife. It's more about strength than a razor sharp edge... but a "working" edge that will hold up.

Use the right tool for the job.
Last edited by JohnInNH on Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by jlwilliams »

I carry the Benchmade 707, big enough yet not over the legal carry limit in my state. The 710 is more knife, and is avialable in more blade steels. The 707 is my favorite carry to date (biased opinion, but my honest opinion.)

Whatever knife you get in whatever price range, look into your local knife laws and carry the most you legally can, no more. If you carry a knife over the legal limit, and a cop notices it, he is likely to take it away. You could get arrested, but it's not likely unless there is some other chargeable thing going on. Once the cop takes it away, you now have no knife. Much easier to carry something that is going to be OK, that way you can ALWAYS have it. A 3" blade in pocket is more useful than a big blade that you left at home.

Besides, it would be wrong headed for me to advise someone to break the law.
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Post by JohnInNH »

jlwilliams wrote:I carry the Benchmade 707, big enough yet not over the legal carry limit in my state. The 710 is more knife, and is avialable in more blade steels. The 707 is my favorite carry to date (biased opinion, but my honest opinion.)

Whatever knife you get in whatever price range, look into your local knife laws and carry the most you legally can, no more. If you carry a knife over the legal limit, and a cop notices it, he is likely to take it away. You could get arrested, but it's not likely unless there is some other chargeable thing going on. Once the cop takes it away, you now have no knife. Much easier to carry something that is going to be OK, that way you can ALWAYS have it. A 3" blade in pocket is more useful than a big blade that you left at home.

Besides, it would be wrong headed for me to advise someone to break the law.
I try to stay under 3" My Al Mar is 2.75" A BM42 will get you in trouble in a LOT of places and they draw attention. A BM32 is smaller and much less noticeable especially if you open it without a lot of "flair" and showmanship, but still may be illegal.

It is also why unless you are in a state where you can carry a Microtech's it should stay in the house and probably in the safe so it won't grow legs or have kids "borrowing" it.

I suppose you could say your Microtech Scarab is not spring loaded and the thumb button generates the force to open it so it's really technically a "manual" opening knife... :roll: but a judge would see it as an OTF switch blade as would a jury. When it goes SNAP and instantly the blade appears. LOL

If you are LE or active Military or you state lets you carry one I would think 2x about an OTF microtech for saving your life. Crap can get into the handle and the blade can deploy fully but not "lock" requiring you to pull on the blade to get it to lock or even retract.

A piece of scotch tape/200 MPH tape just enough to cover the end and not wrap over the edges will help to prevent that. Test it to make sure it will deploy with it on.
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Post by Blaubart »

JohnInNH wrote:I try to stay under 3"...
Good advice. I did a little searching around and it seems that it's illegal to carry a knife with a blade longer than 2.5" in a federal building.

http://www.donath.org/Rants/StateKnifeLaws/
(Not sure how reputable that site is, but I'm too lazy to search for the federal law. The link the site provides for reference gives a DNS error.)
Possessing a knife in a federal facility is prohibited unless it is a pocket knife with blade under 2.5".
Maybe I need to leave my knife in the car next time I go to the post office... :roll:

Montana law is much easier to search. It states:
45-8-316. Carrying concealed weapons. (1) Every person who carries or bears concealed upon his person a dirk, dagger... sword cane... knife having a blade 4 inches long or longer, razor not including a safety razor, or other deadly weapon shall be punished by a fine... or imprisonment...
Which is a good thing, because I carry the exact same knife that RX7-2nr posted above. I measured the blade just now and it's 3.5".
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Post by tacticalsniper3 »

JohnInNH wrote:Some knives are for collecting...

I would not touch the edge of a William Henry $1,100 custom with a stone at it would devalue it. With a 50 piece limited run "piece of jewelery" it's a collector piece. not an EDC.

I like good tools which is why I look for the steel and rc # of the blade. I wanted a Bob Dosier small drop point D2.... back years ago and found a knife which was exactly like I wanted except it had 440C blade. I paid $45 for it instead of the $200+ which I should have done.

I still have it. It is a Browning. It is a PITA to sharpen and does not hold an edge. I use it to open pellet fuel bags and it sits on the mantelpiece over the pellet stove. It will hold an edge if I just cut the plastic bags :roll:

I later got a SV30 rc61,Ats-34 and other good blades realized the insane difference the blade material makes. Yep the Made in china thrift outlet $2.50 socket set works but it's not like good tools. I have cracked, broken, or had ratchets just freeze from there .. they are disposable. IMHO.

Now I am picky. I misplace my car keys more often than my pocket knife so I like to have one with a good blade material and a SAFE locking system. You can get a GOOD pocket knife for about $100 or less. If you are using it fro heavy work to me it's not a pocket knife but a belt pouch knife and AUS8 might be what you want.

I have an old Cold Steel recon TANTO which is thick strong, splits wood with a hammer sharpens fairly well (New ones are AUS8A) well and holds an edge.. opens cans etc. Some folders are good for heavy work...

2 different tools for different jobs If your EDC needs to cut metal pallet banding and open cans to me that's not for a EDC pocket knife but a heaver belt pouch knife. It's more about strength than a razor sharp edge... but a "working" edge that will hold up.

Use the right tool for the job.
thats the thing about me, i work at a loading dock and am constantly opening crates, whether it be metal bands or thick plastic bands. but i also work on the fire dept, so that same knife could be used to cut someone's shirt or to break a window, so i will always need that razor edge on it because i dont know when im going to have turn around and have to cut into someone jeans. so it always changes, thats why i need a heavy knife but also able to hold the razor edge.
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Post by Blaubart »

jlwilliams wrote:Once the cop takes it away, you now have no knife.
Plus the obvious resentment that comes when you realize that dick of a cop probably just took your knife home and added it to his tactical equipment inventory. :lol:

In a perfect world, we could carry whatever kind of knife we wanted to and using a knife to attack a person would be a crime. In a slightly less perfect world, that cop would inform you that carrying a knife with a blade over a certain length is against the law and if you want to keep it, carry it on your belt. But in this world where it's become us vs. them, they'll take it and depending on how much you respect their authority, they might or might not arrest you.

Sorry, I'm not meaning to engage in general cop bashing. I'm thinking of a particular cop that I met that actually tried to sell me illegal fireworks that he had confiscated from some teenagers... :roll:
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Post by st33ve0 »

tacticalsniper3 wrote:
JohnInNH wrote:Some knives are for collecting...

I would not touch the edge of a William Henry $1,100 custom with a stone at it would devalue it. With a 50 piece limited run "piece of jewelery" it's a collector piece. not an EDC.

I like good tools which is why I look for the steel and rc # of the blade. I wanted a Bob Dosier small drop point D2.... back years ago and found a knife which was exactly like I wanted except it had 440C blade. I paid $45 for it instead of the $200+ which I should have done.

I still have it. It is a Browning. It is a PITA to sharpen and does not hold an edge. I use it to open pellet fuel bags and it sits on the mantelpiece over the pellet stove. It will hold an edge if I just cut the plastic bags :roll:

I later got a SV30 rc61,Ats-34 and other good blades realized the insane difference the blade material makes. Yep the Made in china thrift outlet $2.50 socket set works but it's not like good tools. I have cracked, broken, or had ratchets just freeze from there .. they are disposable. IMHO.

Now I am picky. I misplace my car keys more often than my pocket knife so I like to have one with a good blade material and a SAFE locking system. You can get a GOOD pocket knife for about $100 or less. If you are using it fro heavy work to me it's not a pocket knife but a belt pouch knife and AUS8 might be what you want.

I have an old Cold Steel recon TANTO which is thick strong, splits wood with a hammer sharpens fairly well (New ones are AUS8A) well and holds an edge.. opens cans etc. Some folders are good for heavy work...

2 different tools for different jobs If your EDC needs to cut metal pallet banding and open cans to me that's not for a EDC pocket knife but a heaver belt pouch knife. It's more about strength than a razor sharp edge... but a "working" edge that will hold up.

Use the right tool for the job.
thats the thing about me, i work at a loading dock and am constantly opening crates, whether it be metal bands or thick plastic bands. but i also work on the fire dept, so that same knife could be used to cut someone's shirt or to break a window, so i will always need that razor edge on it because i dont know when im going to have turn around and have to cut into someone jeans. so it always changes, thats why i need a heavy knife but also able to hold the razor edge.
Do what Fairbairn did, get a double edge knife and notch the handle or otherwise have a way to keep track of the blade. Use one edge for emergencies like taking or saving lives and the other edge for everything else.
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Post by BWPerdue »

I usually EDC a Spyderco Delica or Dragonfly. Sometimes a small Ladybug.

A Victorinox swiss army knife is also a useful tool to have on you. They don't cost a lot, but are a good value.

ETA: A Case Sodbuster or Sodbuster Jr. also makes a good everyday working knife, although maybe more traditional than you're looking for.
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