Aluminum for .223 Can

[Golf_1911]

Will the Aluminum 6061-T6 Round Tube with .065" wall strong enough to making Outer tube for .223 Can?

Can dimension would be 1.5" x 7" Long and use baffle design like Tac16.

[delta9mda]

im not a metallurgist but it give me a bad feeling thinking about this

[82nd airborne]

My sphincter would tighten considerably using aluminum of those dimensions for a .223 can.

[ghostdog662]

The tac16 baffle stack design and performance really stinks, especially when compared to modern battle designs or cans that aren't that much more money.

You sure as hell couldn't thread that tube for end caps. I thought we came to the conclusion like 10 threads ago about this subject ago that aluminum fails unpredictably and much better/safer materials available for not much more weight.

[Golf_1911]

How about Aluminum 7075-T6?

Just want the light weight .223 Can instead of Heavier .223 Can from SS or Steel.


For Baffle design does not conclude. So, may change to Cone Baffle by SS304.

[USMC03]

At the VERY least, use a SS blast baffle. Also a stainless tube insert for the blast chamber as well.

[57fairlane]

How about Aluminum 7075-T6?

Just want the light weight .223 Can instead of Heavier .223 Can from SS or Steel.


For Baffle design does not conclude. So, may change to Cone Baffle by SS304.

It isn't a coincidence that the vast majority of commercially available silencers for .223 are made of stainless . . . its because aluminum can't hold up.

If your thinking about only doing the blast baffle out of SS then essentially you are building a pistol can and will be using it on your .223 gun. Call up (or write) some manufacturers and get them to tell you how well an aluminum pistol can will hold up to .223

[Capt. Link.]

You could make a very light weight can out of S.S. or steel or a titanium alloy,what are your requirements how heavy is to heavy.A good can dose not need to be heavy just well made.

[PaulNoiseLess]

Hi,

I’m not going to enter into the SS vs. “Alien” battle once more.

Can you afford MonoCores ?, 3-Axis CNC Mill by chance ?

If so, I’m willing to Post a new design (brand new, just few days old …) for you. Mixes Alu-6061/T6 (Core and Caps) and SS-304L (Tube from OnlineMetals.com), 1.5x7.

Best,

Paul

[vz58]

Hi,

I’m not going to enter into the SS vs. “Alien” battle once more.

Can you afford MonoCores ?, 3-Axis CNC Mill by chance ?

If so, I’m willing to Post a new design (brand new, just few days old …) for you. Mixes Alu-6061/T6 (Core and Caps) and SS-304L (Tube from OnlineMetals.com), 1.5x7.

Best,

Paul

Paul, I'm 4 axis cnc , I'd like a look at your idea.

[PaulNoiseLess]

Hi,

It’s coming. Just need some sanity and tool paths check on the final model to produce Blue Prints and a portable 3D Model. I also have to check final volumes and strengths but that’s easy.

It’s new, quite new. The idea behind this one is to have an embedded (Machined in the Core) muzzle brake on a compact and lightweight .223RM Can. If it’s all made out of SS, Full Auto, but the idea is to mix Alu and SS to have a small and compact Can for Bolt action Rifles.

It’s got only 4 Baffles (3 ways each one) in the Core to keep it as short and small as possible. Not sure about performance but on the ++average for sure.

For those having CNC Mills, I’ll also make “square” Cores so it’s easier to program at CAM’s.

Best,

Paul

[PaulNoiseLess]

Hi,

This is how the new MonoCore looks like. Some specs:

Total Length: 7.75 inches
Tube OD: 1.5 inches
Materials: Tube and treads insert is SS 304-L, rest is 6061/T6
Volume: Total (13.7 inch3), Solid (6 inch3), Empty (7.7 inch3)
Total Weight: 425 grams (14.875 ounces)

It’s got only 4 Baffles but very efficient ones. Like slanted walls but with a 90º extra wall to create a 3rd chamber and strength the overall geometry. The Blast chamber is “muzzle brake” like (with 6 flutes) and last for 1.25 inches. Minimu internal walling is 1/12 inches and has been designed to be milled using a 1/4 ball end mill.

Baffles have been already tested several times but never combined with a “MB” like Blast.

I’ll produce Blue Prints and portable 3D CAD format tonite.

Best,

Paul

[vz58]

Do you think this will be quieter then a similar sized omega baffled can?

My problem is getting a bore drilled. How does every one else do it?

[PaulNoiseLess]

Hi,

How long can you actually drill ?, this one requires 5.75 inches if done in one shot. Otherwise, do one side then the other side. Blast bore is wider than the core itself.

I have not tested this one so i can’t tell you for sure. Just some info: More volume, smaller diameter on bore, lighten, shorter, MB based Blast, … don’t really know but looks like promising. Not for full auto or very short barrels unless one build everything in SS.

Best,

Paul

[57fairlane]

Do you think this will be quieter then a similar sized omega baffled can?

My problem is getting a bore drilled. How does every one else do it?

What I do is drill a whatever diameter hole you plan on using in stock vertically in a mill (I use our HAAS VF-2YT because it has thru-spindle coolant and our lathe's high pressure coolant just leaks out from the tool holder) then put the piece in the lathe, use a live center in one end and hold onto 1/2" or so and turn maybe 1/2-3/4" on the end with the center in it. Then flip around holding onto the end you just cut and repeat.

This way is pretty easy and I usually only end up with .002-.003 runout over 6 inches which is good enough for everything I've done.

Hi, This is how the new MonoCore looks like. Some specs:

You could also use a ball end (or traditional end mill) and create a M baffle in the backside of the front end cap and drill a hole or two into that last triangle shaped chamber.

[vz58]

I was thinking a 300 black/308 can addin one or two baffles (just copy the others) and a little longer. I can order an aircraft drill and get aboit 11" on the lathe with careful slow going. But omegas are known quiet.....

[Golf_1911]

Hi,

I’m not going to enter into the SS vs. “Alien” battle once more.

Can you afford MonoCores ?, 3-Axis CNC Mill by chance ?

If so, I’m willing to Post a new design (brand new, just few days old …) for you. Mixes Alu-6061/T6 (Core and Caps) and SS-304L (Tube from OnlineMetals.com), 1.5x7.

Best,

Paul

Yes please.

[PaulNoiseLess]

Hi,

OK, here we go:

Blue Prints (8 Pages, A3/300 dpi). Tolerances are set to zero (except for threading’s) so any one can setup it up depending on their machines, tools and skills. Bore is gentle at 0.275 inches.

I’m working now on PDF e-book, AutoCad 2010 and STEP, IGES and Inventor 2012 native parts and assemblies.

If someone needs/wants a special format, let me know and I’ll see what I can do.

Ctrl-Click on the icons to go to the Pic’s page. Once there, click again to get the highest resolution. Once the big one shows, just “save copy as …”

Best,

Paul

PAGE 1



PAGE 2



PAGE 3



PAGE 4



PAGE 5



PAGE 6



PAGE 7



PAGE 8

[calinb]

What I do is drill a whatever diameter hole you plan on using in stock vertically in a mill (I use our HAAS VF-2YT because it has thru-spindle coolant and our lathe's high pressure coolant just leaks out from the tool holder) then put the piece in the lathe, use a live center in one end and hold onto 1/2" or so and turn maybe 1/2-3/4" on the end with the center in it. Then flip around holding onto the end you just cut and repeat.

This way is pretty easy and I usually only end up with .002-.003 runout over 6 inches which is good enough for everything I've done.

What do you use for the initial drilling in the vertical mill, 57fairlane? A long drill bit? Do you spot it and then work up in length? Can a small diameter bit for a .22 or quarter bore caliber baffle run that straight over 6 inches? Is it better to setup twice and drill halfway from each end, regardless? How about finishing with a straight flute chuck reamer?

I'd appreciate any tips on drilling or milling the bore. Are there any special techniques that produce acceptable tolerances without EDM?