First build complete

[gmart122]

I've just completed my first silencer build. I've not tested it yet as I need to add it to my licence (UK). I've posted some pictures and would appreciate any feedback, I have a few questions:

In order to tackle the weight, I am considering cutting windows into the blast area spacer, shown in first picture. Is this likely to lead to gases escaping around the thread at the back of the tube? Currently, at no point does the gases come into direct contact with the outer tube.

In a similar vein, would saving weight by milling castellations into the rims of each of the baffle spacers cause issues with gases escaping around the baffles?

Are there any other ingenious ways of saving weight? Currently it weighs 780gr, the blast area spacer alone is nearly 100gr and I could make a large saving there.

Final question, is this thing likely to perform well?

Tube is 1.5mm (.065) wall 316L stainless, 200mm (8'') long, 38mm (1.5'') OD. End cap is 316 stainless and welded on. Baffles are 304 stainless. Wall thickness on baffles and spacer is 1.5mm (.065). 9mm clearance hole used throughout to accomodate my .308. Blast area is around 75mm (3'') long. Cones are 60 degree. Eight baffles in total, nine if you include the end cap itself.

[Capt. Link.]

It looks to be a fine build,as far a cutting weight out lightning the blast spacer is a good place.I hope it proves to be quiet for you.

[Enfield577]

Nice work.

I am no design expert on these but would suggest that you look at all the other designs on here - you should be able to see where you can save a bit of weight

[iron.maiden]

in this case , do not weld the end cap , if it's not as quiet as you expecting you have the possibility for any change .

[delta9mda]

in this case , do not weld the end cap , if it's not as quiet as you expecting you have the possibility for any change .

not legally in the USA

[madbear]

delta, you change the parts you have already built can't you?
like drill holes, cut scoops & turn off some of the metal.
madbear

[delta9mda]

bear, i dont know so im not going to answer incorrectly. ill ask someone and find out.

[Enfield577]

in this case , do not weld the end cap , if it's not as quiet as you expecting you have the possibility for any change .

not legally in the USA

Hey delta , looks like this chap is in the UK "I've not tested it yet as I need to add it to my licence (UK)." so he would most likely be good to change things.

I think they have to have the suppressor on a licence but no serial numbers or design details are required.

Cheers

[iron.maiden]

delta, you change the parts you have already built can't you?
like drill holes, cut scoops & turn off some of the metal.
madbear

this.

maybe you are bear... but sure you are not mad

[gmart122]

Hi all, Yes I am in the UK. Its just put on your licence as maker unknown, serial number unknown. The Police only recognise a small number of commercially available silencers. All else is listed unknown, even if it isn't unknown.

Before you can purchase or aquire a silencer, the Police have to approve it. Then it's listed only against the firearms specified. Therefore illegal to use on any other of your guns.

As far as my design goes, I can play with it until I am happy.

[Wyatt9k]

in this case , do not weld the end cap , if it's not as quiet as you expecting you have the possibility for any change .

not legally in the USA

Why not, I mean if I build my own legal suppressor and have threaded or welded endcaps and the suppressor sound doesnt meet my satisfaction, Im pretty sure you can destroy the old baffles and make new ones, I mean its not like ATF or the cops is going to be there with you while your making them, trying them out, if they dont work, destroy and make some different baffles..

[delta9mda]

in this case , do not weld the end cap , if it's not as quiet as you expecting you have the possibility for any change .

not legally in the USA

Why not, I mean if I build my own legal suppressor and have threaded or welded endcaps and the suppressor sound doesnt meet my satisfaction, Im pretty sure you can destroy the old baffles and make new ones, I mean its not like ATF or the cops is going to be there with you while your making them, trying them out, if they dont work, destroy and make some different baffles..

legally it is one time that is it. if you make or mod and dont say anything then who is to say/ know. not telling you to do it just saying.

[madbear]

i'm not an expert on this but i would think that while you are building your supperssor you can mod any of the parts. with papers in hand of course!
i guess the question would boil down to when is the thing finished.
i am sure you can't destory & rebuild parts but if you are the builder as long as you are working on getting it the way you want it i would think you should be able to mod the parts you already have.
kinda a grey area, is there a magical step that establishes that it's "finished"?
and what do ya mean i'm not mad, i'm crazy as hell
madbear

[ranb]

gmart122, I would make the blast baffle about .020" thick, it is only keeping the blast baffle away from the muzzle and not under much stress. The sides of the baffles can be about .040". I would go with .050" on the can also. Those 60 degree cones should do a good job I think.

Ranb

EDITED TO ADD; I meant to say the blast chamber spacer should be .020" thick, not the blast baffle.

[Bendersquint]

i'm not an expert on this but i would think that while you are building your supperssor you can mod any of the parts. with papers in hand of course!
i guess the question would boil down to when is the thing finished.
i am sure you can't destory & rebuild parts but if you are the builder as long as you are working on getting it the way you want it i would think you should be able to mod the parts you already have.
kinda a grey area, is there a magical step that establishes that it's "finished"?
and what do ya mean i'm not mad, i'm crazy as hell
madbear

You can modify any of your suppressors as in REMOVING more metal, as soon as you add any metal or replace a component or anything along those line you have crossed the line and are now manufacturing.

-B

[Bendersquint]

gmart122, I would make the blast baffle about .020" thick, it is only keeping the blast baffle away from the muzzle and not under much stress. The sides of the baffles can be about .040". I would go with .050" on the can also. Thsoe 60 degree cones should do a good job I think.

Ranb

Blas baffle of .02" thick? Holy crap thats thin! I hope you mistyped, it wouldn't take much to collapse it being that thin.

-B

[ranb]

Opps, you are right, I intended to write blast chamber spacer. Thanks. Make the blast chamber spacer only .020" as it is not under any compressive stress like the rest of the parts are.

I typically make my blast baffle twice as thick as the rest of the baffles. In this case I would go with a blast baffle that is about .080" and the rest of the baffles .040".

Ranb

[Bendersquint]

Opps, you are right, I intended to write blast chamber spacer. Thanks. Make the blast chamber spacer only .020" as it is not under any compressive stress like the rest of the parts are.

I typically make my blast baffle twice as thick as the rest of the baffles. In this case I would go with a blast baffle that is about .080" and the rest of the baffles .040".

Ranb

Phew much better!

-B

[delta9mda]

do yourself a favor and make the blast spacer the same wall thickness as the others ( at least).

[gmart122]

The baffle spacer is .060 thick just so it has maximum engagement at its ends with the blast baffle and end cap which are also .060 thick. I can take material from the middle of the spacer leaving the ends .060. I just felt happier leaving it .060 and cutting windows into it to lighten it. I don't like the thought of thin metal. My only consideration was that the windows might allow gas to escape around the thread at the rear of the can.

All baffles are the same design and thickness so they can be rotated at a later date if required. All bullet clearance holes are the same.

With a couple of simple mods the weight may be 700 grams, but it's still a lot for what is quite a small silencer. But when you consider the thing is double skinned of .065 its entire length you begin to understand. I suppose it's the price for a robust silencer.

Thanks for all replies.