410 shotgun supressor building advice wanted

[mob]

Has anyone here built a .410 supressed shotgun as I wanting to know if I should do a ported barrel that goes thru the supressor or should I do an end mount supressor. I've got a single shot Rossi 410 and a mossberg 500 in 410 so I can go either way. I've seen a few examples overseas that hushpower makes and it seems to be both designs.

Here's a link to the hushpower stuff
http://www.saddleryandgunroom.co.uk/Gun ... hpower.htm

[one-eyed Jack]

I built a 20 ga single ported which is very effective. get your mailing info to me and I'll send you the specs. Jack. jack@clpworld hq.com.

[ghostdog662]

I built a 20 ga single ported which is very effective. get your mailing info to me and I'll send you the specs. Jack. jack@clpworld hq.com.

Share the wealth (here).

[mob]

I did find this by looking up the email

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulle ... 44184.html

[twodollarbill]

You need to find the forward point that your wad expands after exiting the barrel
and make your build shorter than that.
I always thought that unless you are a mfr and can legally experiment, building a shotgun suppressor
would be hit or miss.

[one-eyed Jack]

Mob, thanks for posting this. I have a hard time doing this with this computer. I am an 07 with SOT. I did add a short coil spring at the front end to hold the packings tight against each other. Jack.

[Bendersquint]

Mob, thanks for posting this. I have a hard time doing this with this computer. I am an 07 with SOT. I did add a short coil spring at the front end to hold the packings tight against each other. Jack.

You should not have a spring in there, you are looking at some serious damage with that spring.

A correctly fitted endcap solves the need for a spring.

[Historian]

Has anyone here built a .410 supressed shotgun as I wanting to know if I should do a ported barrel that goes thru the supressor or should I do an end mount supressor. I've got a single shot Rossi 410 and a mossberg 500 in 410 so I can go either way. I've seen a few examples overseas that hushpower makes and it seems to be both designs.

Here's a link to the hushpower stuff
http://www.saddleryandgunroom.co.uk/Gun ... hpower.htm

Thank you for this new information on the ingenuity of our cousins across the Pond.
The same folks who invented Radar, The WW II Spitfire, Calculus, Enigma Computer,
warm beer, etc.

It is a conundrum that one can develop cans there but the loony leftists
have banned firearms. Guess they do no have our magnificent Second Amendment
among other things.

Such clever engineering on the attachment. Guess RedJacket was not involved.

[one-eyed Jack]

Mob, thanks for posting this. I have a hard time doing this with this computer. I am an 07 with SOT. I did add a short coil spring at the front end to hold the packings tight against each other. Jack.

You should not have a spring in there, you are looking at some serious damage with that spring.

A correctly fitted endcap solves the need for a spring.

Bender, the spring is at the very front behind the endcap to hold the different packings together to avoid gaps. I've learned that almost nothing happens after the first 12 inches. If I were to build another, I would cut the barrel to 18" to keep the weight down. How could the spring pose a problem? Jack.

[Bendersquint]

What do you mean "Nothing happens after the first 12 inches.

Is the spring at the exit endcap or closer to the shooter.

When I hear ENDCAP I think END of the silencer.

[one-eyed Jack]

What do you mean "Nothing happens after the first 12 inches.

Is the spring at the exit endcap or closer to the shooter.

When I hear ENDCAP I think END of the silencer.

Bender, thanks for your interest in this suppressor. Sometimes I tend to use some very non technical terms. The compression spring is behind the front end cap where hardly anything "happens" meaning that after experimenting with various packing mat'ls for many years I find that the mat'ls after 12" or so show little evidence of being subjected to the hot gasses. The st st screening at the breach end takes most of the "heat", which is to be expected and the coarse alum. screen after that takes a lot less. The finer alum. screening at the end tends to stay looking almost like new. If I were to do it all over, I would start with smaller holes at the breech end and work up in size to better "spead out" the cooling of the gasses over a longer distance. Jack.