Maglite Suppressor?

[IslandTimes]

I have several factory suppressors already, but I'd like to build/form 1 a maglite-based suppressor and want to get a little more info. Seems like these work pretty well for .22LR, but how well would an aluminum-maglite tube-based suppressor work for 9mm? Would it hold up to continuous fire on a carbine, what would be the best freeze plug material to use?

Also, has anyone built one of these using the steel maglite-based tube? Any chance it would stand up to .223 or .308 fire?

I know this type of suppressor isn't the best or most effective, probably far from it, but with zero machine skills or equipment beyond a drill press, just seems like an interesting project to try.

[Shady]

best place to start is on sdtactical's web page it has most of the answers you seek and explained better than I can.

[rem_pss308]

I built one from a rechargeable Maglite about 2 years ago. the rechargeable is threaded on the inside on both ends. I had a friend make the end that screws onto the weapon. I used freeze plugs with a 1/2" spacer between them. I built it for 9mm with 1 1/2" blast chamber. the freeze plugs were shaped into m baffles with a ball bearing. it worked good for 9mm and sub sonic 300 BLK. sounded like a paint ball gun.
I shot one super sonic 300 blk thru it and it killed the freeze plugs and spacers. smashed them together and the can now rattles. it still shoots 9mm ok, with no baffle strikes. but I think you need something different for the high power. maybe no spacers or thicker tubing for the spacers. when I get my most recent forms back I plan to make one for 300 BLK supers using the steel tubing from sd tactical. will see how that works about March 2015

[IslandTimes]

I built one from a rechargeable Maglite about 2 years ago. the rechargeable is threaded on the inside on both ends. I had a friend make the end that screws onto the weapon. I used freeze plugs with a 1/2" spacer between them. I built it for 9mm with 1 1/2" blast chamber. the freeze plugs were shaped into m baffles with a ball bearing. it worked good for 9mm and sub sonic 300 BLK. sounded like a paint ball gun.
I shot one super sonic 300 blk thru it and it killed the freeze plugs and spacers. smashed them together and the can now rattles. it still shoots 9mm ok, with no baffle strikes. but I think you need something different for the high power. maybe no spacers or thicker tubing for the spacers. when I get my most recent forms back I plan to make one for 300 BLK supers using the steel tubing from sd tactical. will see how that works about March 2015

What material did you use for the spacers and baffles? From a lot of reading it seems like stainless steel baffles are the most durable, but are they much heavier than regular carbon/mild steel freeze-plug baffles would be? Do you temper/heat treat the SS freeze plugs, or is that only for the regular carbon steel ones?

I found some nice anodized end caps for both C and D sized maglites, but haven't had any luck tracking down stainless or regular steel endcaps, anyone have a source, or would this be something I would need custom done? Also, are there any sources for 7075 aluminum freeze plugs, preferably anodized?

I have two can ideas shaping up in my head right now. The first an all aluminum deal using the shorter 2 cell C or D maglite for 9mm and .22LR. Was thinking a SS freeze plug as the blast baffle, with the rest aluminum freeze plugs shaped into M baffles. Ideally I'd like this one to be serviceable.

My second idea is to use one of the steel maglite tubes with a SS sleeved blast chamber, and all M shaped SS baffles. SD Tactical looks to sell an adapter to mount on the Griffin muzzle devices, but I'm not sure if this is steel or aluminum. I imagine that aluminum wouldn't cut it for end caps on a .223/5.56 AR? Another idea with this one would be to use aluminum freeze plug baffles for the last 1/3 or 1/2 of the baffles, to save some weight on what will undoubtedly be a heavy suppressor.

Are there any problems I would run into with these two ideas?

[rem_pss308]

What material did you use for the spacers and baffles?I used stainless tubing for the spacer, and steel freeze plugs. Steel is formed way easier than stainless freeze plugs. I didn't heat temper them. From a lot of reading it seems like stainless steel baffles are the most durable, but are they much heavier than regular carbon/mild steel freeze-plug baffles would be?They are very close in weight. Do you temper/heat treat the SS freeze plugs, or is that only for the regular carbon steel ones?

I found some nice anodized end caps for both C and D sized maglites, but haven't had any luck tracking down stainless or regular steel endcaps, anyone have a source, or would this be something I would need custom done? Also, are there any sources for 7075 aluminum freeze plugs, preferably anodized? I have never seen aluminum freeze plugs

I have two can ideas shaping up in my head right now. The first an all aluminum deal using the shorter 2 cell C or D maglite for 9mm and .22LR. Was thinking a SS freeze plug as the blast baffle, with the rest aluminum freeze plugs shaped into M baffles. Ideally I'd like this one to be serviceable.Should be very quiet in .22, could be decent , but 3 cell , or rechargeable would be more efficient for 9mm.

My second idea is to use one of the steel maglite tubes with a SS sleeved blast chamber, and all M shaped SS baffles. SD Tactical looks to sell an adapter to mount on the Griffin muzzle devices, but I'm not sure if this is steel or aluminum. I imagine that aluminum wouldn't cut it for end caps on a .223/5.56 AR? Another idea with this one would be to use aluminum freeze plug baffles for the last 1/3 or 1/2 of the baffles, to save some weight on what will undoubtedly be a heavy suppressor.

[IslandTimes]

I appreciate all the help!

And I know, I keep asking questions, but I promise I've been doing extensive reading on here to try and answer some of them on my own.

Can someone evaluate the possible effectiveness of this design? Would it be decent for a .308 can, or would it be better dimensions for 5.56?

-8 3/8 inch SS tube
-1.35 inch ID
-Threaded steel endcaps, possibly rockset in place, as I can't weld. Would an aluminum endcap work for the far end of the suppressor?
-1.75 inch lined blast chamber
-2 back to back freeze plugs for the blast baffle, with holes drilled around the center hole
-8 M-shaped freeze plugs, with the last 6 trimmed to have 3 legs to cut down on weight

It would look something like this:
=__ ] [ { { { { { { { {

Have not decided if this will be direct thread, or thread onto a flash hider or brake.

[Historian]

I appreciate all the help!

And I know, I keep asking questions, but I promise I've been doing extensive reading on here to try and answer some of them on my own.

Can someone evaluate the possible effectiveness of this design? Would it be decent for a .308 can, or would it be better dimensions for 5.56?

-8 3/8 inch SS tube
-1.35 inch ID
-Threaded steel endcaps, possibly rockset in place, as I can't weld. Would an aluminum endcap work for the far end of the suppressor?
-1.75 inch lined blast chamber
-2 back to back freeze plugs for the blast baffle, with holes drilled around the center hole
-8 M-shaped freeze plugs, with the last 6 trimmed to have 3 legs to cut down on weight

It would look something like this:
=__ ] [ { { { { { { { {

Have not decided if this will be direct thread, or thread onto a flash hider or brake.

Three cone point set screws at 120º apart through cylinder into end caps something to consider
in this context.

<< http://www.midwestsocket.com/set-screws.htm >>

"Cone Point Set Screw - The cone point has a sharp conical point on one end.
It is used for the permanent setting of parts.
Because of the deep penetration of the cone point it offers the highest torsional and axial holding capability."

[tyler durden]

I'm really interested in this topic. I was thinking of building one for 7.62x39mm. I thought that if I build it with a large (maybe 2" long?) first chamber and a blast baffle made from a 3/8" or 1/4" thick stainless washer, then set the remaining baffles (SS freeze plugs) like this: |[][][][][], they should lend some support to each other. My main concern here is that it is durable enough for 7.62x39mm and still be a low cost Form 1 can. If cost gets much over $100, it starts to lose its attractiveness. Weight and suppression level are distant secondary concerns.

Has anyone made a flashlight based Form 1 silencer that has held up to standard 7.62x39mm or 300 Blackout?

[McLarenross]

Is the reason for using the maglite tube and freeze plug baffles cost savings or lack of machine tools? If cost savings, I think its gonna come out about the same versus using all stainless and machining the baffles. I have $125 in my fully machined and welded stainless steel 30 cal suppressor. So for me I just dont see a cost benefit as all the rechargeable maglites I see are over $100.

[IslandTimes]

For me, it's mostly the lack of machine tools and knowledge. I don't have any tools beyond a drill press, grinder, and bench vise, and don't know anyone who does. Normally, I would make a impulse buy and get a mini lathe and welder. In this case, however, I don't have any knowledge on the operations for either, have an acute fear of losing my fingers, have no room for anything else at the moment, and they are out of my impulse buy price range.

On the other hand, apogee has maglite steel tubes for $40, baffles are $1 each, and end caps can be had for about $30 each.

Would love to make one of these the right way, with the right tools, it's just not in the cards at the moment.

[doubloon]

$40 + $60 + $10 <= 1/3 the cost of a good commercial top performing can with a lifetime warranty

[IslandTimes]

$40 + $60 + $10 <= 1/3 the cost of a good commercial top performing can with a lifetime warranty

I already have 3 of those. This just seemed like a fun project, especially with only having to wait a month for e-form approval

[IslandTimes]

Well I went ahead and e-filed a form 1 in 5.56. Hopefully in a month I'll have the stamp in hand and be able to order parts and start getting this together! Depending on how successful it is, I'll either form 1 a 7.62 next, or a 9mm and call it quits for now.

[Shady]

and does that 125 include the hours of time spent learning to cut threads and do the work. Cost of tools. Cost of replacement tube for the several that will come out bad when you first start.

I am not knocking doing it yourself but if you dont think that for someone with 0 skill and 0 tools its a cost saving thing to just go the flashlight route you are kidding yourself. If you happen to have a shop with the tools and skills then ya a premade tube is silly. I bet you would be hard pressed to not have at least a grand in your first can and thats getting one of the cheep HF lathes. If you count time involved and broken stuff.

Is the reason for using the maglite tube and freeze plug baffles cost savings or lack of machine tools? If cost savings, I think its gonna come out about the same versus using all stainless and machining the baffles. I have $125 in my fully machined and welded stainless steel 30 cal suppressor. So for me I just dont see a cost benefit as all the rechargeable maglites I see are over $100.

[jlwilliams]

There is a steel fuel filter people use. I forget the number, but it's a NAPA Gold filter, Google "NAPA gold filter solvent trap" and it will come up. It's a steel tube with both ends treaded on the inside. the end caps that screw into it are threaded for a pipe thread. You can either put an adapter in or just use the tube and get new end caps made for it. There are people selling adapters in all the common sizes on ebay. It's pretty big. I think it's about 12" long and probably a good 1 1/2" thick. Too much for a pistol can but probably fine for an AR or whatever carbine you want to suppress.

I just did a search on ebay. It's a NAPA 4003 or WIX 24003 filter. Probably meant for some diesel application.

[McLarenross]

and does that 125 include the hours of time spent learning to cut threads and do the work. Cost of tools. Cost of replacement tube for the several that will come out bad when you first start.

I am not knocking doing it yourself but if you dont think that for someone with 0 skill and 0 tools its a cost saving thing to just go the flashlight route you are kidding yourself. If you happen to have a shop with the tools and skills then ya a premade tube is silly. I bet you would be hard pressed to not have at least a grand in your first can and thats getting one of the cheep HF lathes. If you count time involved and broken stuff.

Is the reason for using the maglite tube and freeze plug baffles cost savings or lack of machine tools? If cost savings, I think its gonna come out about the same versus using all stainless and machining the baffles. I have $125 in my fully machined and welded stainless steel 30 cal suppressor. So for me I just dont see a cost benefit as all the rechargeable maglites I see are over $100.

Hahaha. Not even close. No doubt that the time and tools cost me a lot of money, but that why I was asking. Is the motivation to built with a maglite tube due to the lack of machine tools or to save material costs. If I looked at this from a overall price of everything needed to build them stand point then my suppressors have cost me about $2000 each!! lol.