On the UK program "Wheelers & Dealers" Mike took a set of
rims to a shop to have them refurbished as cost new ones were
out of the question. The machinist was using diamond turning tools
on his lathe and the finish was superb. Would not have got that
from HSS or carbide tools.
Had not heard of diamond turning tools
before.
Channeling Toad in "Wind in the Willows" when I escape from
Badger I shall order one.
<< http://www.technodiamant.com/Synthetic_ ... nserts.htm >>
Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
- curtistactical
- Silent But Deadly
- Posts: 469
- Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:22 am
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
I work at a shop where we manufacture diamond cutting tools http://sp3cuttingtools.com/ . Diamond is only used to cut cut non-ferrous materials like aluminum. The diamond has a very non porous surface compared to carbide which keeps it from gaulding up and allows extremely high feeds and speeds. You can actually chip the cutting edge just by rubbing micrometers over it to check size so it is brittle.Historian wrote:On the UK program "Wheelers & Dealers" Mike took a set of
rims to a shop to have them refurbished as cost new ones were
out of the question. The machinist was using diamond turning tools
on his lathe and the finish was superb. Would not have got that
from HSS or carbide tools.
Had not heard of diamond turning tools
before.
Channeling Toad in "Wind in the Willows" when I escape from
Badger I shall order one.
<< http://www.technodiamant.com/Synthetic_ ... nserts.htm >>
Joe
Joseph Jones
Curtis Tactical
07/02
Curtis Tactical
07/02
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
Thank you Curtistactical for the clarification. Indeed the
wheels that were being restored were aluminum.
Many thanks for being the realistic 'Badger' to my "wow, new shiny tool,
must have" Toad. Saved money for future fun.
Oops, is that a new Bentley motor car ....
Best
wheels that were being restored were aluminum.
Many thanks for being the realistic 'Badger' to my "wow, new shiny tool,
must have" Toad. Saved money for future fun.
Oops, is that a new Bentley motor car ....
Best
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
We use to use a diamond tipped boring bar on glass filled Teflon parts. The diamond holds up well on abrasive materials.
Diamond and ceramic inserts do not like interrupted cuts / shock or impact loads unless technology has changed.
Diamond and ceramic inserts do not like interrupted cuts / shock or impact loads unless technology has changed.
Branded for life, in more ways than one
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
The biggest problem with diamond is that it really doesn't do well on ferreous materials. As I understand it this has to do with carbons solubility in iron, basically iron will erode diamond pretty quickly as the temperature rises.
-
- Silent Operator
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 4:05 pm
- Location: Lancaster County, PA
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
This. Diamond is the best thing out there for machining aluminum and other non-ferrous materials. It will break down almost immediately in steel.Fulmen wrote:The biggest problem with diamond is that it really doesn't do well on ferreous materials. As I understand it this has to do with carbons solubility in iron, basically iron will erode diamond pretty quickly as the temperature rises.
If you want a top-notch finish in steel, look at cermets. There can be some compatibility issues with some kinds of cermet and some kinds of stainless, but the right cermet used correctly can produce a near-mirror finish on steel, and quickly.
Andy Gamble
Binary Arms
07/02
Binary Arms
07/02
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
On the subject of Cermets:
Last year at a large flea / used marked there was a guy selling carbide drills that were ground to handle both stone and metal. He of course impressed people by drilling holes in everything from hard steel to bricks. A few stands over there is a guy selling used tools, endmills and carbide inserts. He sent a person over to get the hole in a large cermet insert opened up a bit
Last year at a large flea / used marked there was a guy selling carbide drills that were ground to handle both stone and metal. He of course impressed people by drilling holes in everything from hard steel to bricks. A few stands over there is a guy selling used tools, endmills and carbide inserts. He sent a person over to get the hole in a large cermet insert opened up a bit
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
Would you please elaborate ... do you mean to assert that the cermet insert was weak or strong.Fulmen wrote:On the subject of Cermets:
Last year at a large flea / used marked there was a guy selling carbide drills that were ground to handle both stone and metal. He of course impressed people by drilling holes in everything from hard steel to bricks. A few stands over there is a guy selling used tools, endmills and carbide inserts. He sent a person over to get the hole in a large cermet insert opened up a bit
Thanks.
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
<< https://www.secotools.com/CorpWeb/Downl ... eading.pdf >>
Inside this interesting compendium of cutters are Thread Cutting Data on the Number of Passes
and Infeed Depths for UN Threads or Metric:
E.x.: EXTERNAL:
for 28 TPI: .024/.007/.006/.004/.004/.003 inches
or 24 TPI: .028/.007/.007/.006/.005/.003 inches
INTERNAL:
for 28 TPI: .022/.007/.005/.004/.003/.003 inches
or 24 TPI: .025/.007/.006/.005/.004/.003 inches
Inside this interesting compendium of cutters are Thread Cutting Data on the Number of Passes
and Infeed Depths for UN Threads or Metric:
E.x.: EXTERNAL:
for 28 TPI: .024/.007/.006/.004/.004/.003 inches
or 24 TPI: .028/.007/.007/.006/.005/.003 inches
INTERNAL:
for 28 TPI: .022/.007/.005/.004/.003/.003 inches
or 24 TPI: .025/.007/.006/.005/.004/.003 inches
Re: Synthetic & Natural Diamond Turning Tools and Inserts
I just remembered it wasn't cermet, it was ceramic . You can't drill that with carbide, the insert came back good as new. I doubt the drill bit was any use afterwards.
Historian: That's pretty much how I do it as well. Not that I have any table or fixed number of passes, but I start out with up to half the depth and back off as I get close. This is something that you have to figure out by trial and error, it will depend on your lathe, the tooling, material and setup and probably the phase of the moon.
Historian: That's pretty much how I do it as well. Not that I have any table or fixed number of passes, but I start out with up to half the depth and back off as I get close. This is something that you have to figure out by trial and error, it will depend on your lathe, the tooling, material and setup and probably the phase of the moon.