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Yes, it can be legal to make a silencer. For everything Form-1, from silencer designs that are easily made, to filing forms with the BATF, to 3D modeling. Remember, you must have an approved BATF Form-1 to make a silencer. All NFA laws apply.

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0101silent
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Post by 0101silent »

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Last edited by 0101silent on Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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fishman
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by fishman »

Definitely #2. Less parts to induce tolerance stacking. Easy to disassemble. Easiest to make.
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293

5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
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twodollarbill
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by twodollarbill »

Here's the link to my Ruger MK build with K's
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=121918
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Capt. Link.
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by Capt. Link. »

Integrals are my thing but not the most easy to do.A 6.00 tube is ambitious but doable.

A .500 long breech section of barrel is turned and threaded for suppression tube support.
Turn the barrel to .375 ,thread & crown the muzzle.
Make a threaded muzzle cap that is a tight slip fit into the suppression tube.
Fit a sub sized tube between the muzzle cap and the breech section.
The barrel is held under tension between barrel shoulder and muzzle cap to maximize accuracy.The muzzle cap also supports the tube so must be cut with great care.

Small barrel ports close to the chamber are best, use a chronograph for best results.The coaxial tube is ported to balance gas flow between ports made fore and aft on that tube.

Use CCI mini mags and adjust ports to 900-950fps.Add coaxial tube and barrel muzzle cap,then suppression tube.Go to range with your choice of ammo and tighten muzzle cap until groups are smallest.A torque wrench can be used for reassembly once proper tension is found.

That should get you started on the right path w/ this build.

-CL
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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fishman
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by fishman »

CL, why do you recommend a muzzle cap as opposed to what's drawn in his second drawing?
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293

5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
0101silent
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by 0101silent »

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Last edited by 0101silent on Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
fastfire
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by fastfire »

0101silent wrote:I appreciate the responses.

twodollarbill: Thanks for posting your build. I've probably looked at your build thread about 50 times over the last few months. It is extremely helpful because it gives details of how you ported the barrel and the velocities of different cartridges because I don't have a chronograph.

Design #1 is how I imagine Elite Iron and TBA Suppressors build their Integrals. The design isn't ideal in my mind but they have satisfied customers and there must be a compelling reason they build integrals that way.

Design #2 seemed like the obvious best choice. Like fishman said, less parts, easy to disassemble, easy to make.

The excellent design that Capt. Link kindly suggested wouldn't be much more work than #2.

Expert Advice or Keep it Simple? It should be an easy choice but I am conflicted. I nearly started machining both #2 and #3 before posting and asking for advice. Either way I will follow Capt. Links advice and move the ports closer to the chamber. I will have to purchase a chronograph.

Is the barrel in Design #2 strong enough that it doesn't require tension? Does the expansion chamber have enough volume to make it quiet with a 6" to 7" tube?

By the way I carefully measured my safe and if I lay the pistol horizontally I have a maximum tube length of 6.25", diagonally 7 1/8".

I'd get a bigger safe.
crazyelece
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by crazyelece »

I noticed your in OH, if in the Cincy-Dayton area shoot me an email, I have a chono you can borrow if needed.

email is my user name at gmail.com
Sevo
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by Sevo »

CL

I am working on one of these as well. My question is why do you need outer tube? Could you still just use the inner by itself?

I am wanting to do exactly what you are describing where the Suppresor pulls barrel straight

How would you accomplish this with an AR? Just thread right to the barrel closest to the barrel but?

Let me know your thoughts

Thanks
Capt. Link. wrote:Integrals are my thing but not the most easy to do.A 6.00 tube is ambitious but doable.

A .500 long breech section of barrel is turned and threaded for suppression tube support.
Turn the barrel to .375 ,thread & crown the muzzle.
Make a threaded muzzle cap that is a tight slip fit into the suppression tube.
Fit a sub sized tube between the muzzle cap and the breech section.
The barrel is held under tension between barrel shoulder and muzzle cap to maximize accuracy.The muzzle cap also supports the tube so must be cut with great care.

Small barrel ports close to the chamber are best, use a chronograph for best results.The coaxial tube is ported to balance gas flow between ports made fore and aft on that tube.

Use CCI mini mags and adjust ports to 900-950fps.Add coaxial tube and barrel muzzle cap,then suppression tube.Go to range with your choice of ammo and tighten muzzle cap until groups are smallest.A torque wrench can be used for reassembly once proper tension is found.

That should get you started on the right path w/ this build.

-CL
07 FFL/O2 SOT
Www.armorersalliance.com
0101silent
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by 0101silent »

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Last edited by 0101silent on Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
0101silent
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by 0101silent »

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Last edited by 0101silent on Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
a_canadian
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Re: Integral Mark III Design Advice and Critique

Post by a_canadian »

God damn. Sorry to hear that man, really a scary thing to happen. I once had a big ol' chuck (think it was about 12" diameter, some WWII turret lathe) come apart on me during a run of hundreds of small aluminum parts, due to get FedEx'd out in just a few hours. Luckily the thing was intact, just seems someone forgot to do routine maintenance and it came loose, spraying the room with little ball bearings. I found every one I could (mostly digging in the aluminum swarf... oh what fun at 5 in the morning) and figured out how the thing went back together and managed to crank out the 400th part 15 minutes before the courier arrived. Amazed myself, as I really hadn't a clue how a lathe worked, I was just a jockey. Guess I was lucky things didn't go as badly as for you. Take care, and I hope you can find a way to get your integral done.
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