Max suppressor weight for recoil booster

[Hannibalbarca]

So right now I bought a stainless steel tube with maglight d cell inner threads for the caps and some 17-4 stainless steel 60 degree cups for a suppressor build.
The tube is 7 inches long and weighs 13.5 oz and the total weight of the cups is 11 oz.
I plan on getting also stainless steel end caps and will probably weigh like 4 oz do the end cap and maybe upwards of 10 for the front(I want it extended for the recoil booster)
I want to use libertycans stainless steel melonite coated booster and my question is given how much it will all weigh, will it cycle reliably?
The weight will probably be 40 oz, maybe less.
The pistol I'll be using is a cz75 sp01 tactical urban grey edition
Also a Glock 20 and 21 in the future.
Both supers and subs. Mainly s&b 115 grain nato and ppu 158 grain sub sonic.
The weight does not include the holes drilled. I'm sure that will cut down on the weight by a couple of ounces.

[yondering]

The weight will probably be 40 oz, maybe less.

Is this a joke?

[Hannibalbarca]

The weight will probably be 40 oz, maybe less.

Is this a joke?

No.
The tube weighs 13.5 oz according to the site.
The cups each weigh 1.375 oz and I also have a spacer so again 1.375 oz.
The booster is like 6 for a stainless steel version.
No sure how much end cap will be but the front cap where the booster attaches will definitely weight quite a bit since I'd like to extended so that the booster doesn't really protrude into the suppressor and I can keep the same number of baffles.
All stainless steel by the way.
I could probably decrease it by some ounces by going with a titanium tube. The site states it's 4.75 oz but I doubt that since the stainless steel weighs 13.5 and titanium is only 1.78 times lighter.

[Fulmen]

You're not even in the right ballpark for a pistol can. Start by checking the weight of commercial cans, this will tell you how heavy you can go without getting into trouble.

[doubloon]

It's this exact same thread all over again. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=137936

Just make one of these and use it for everthing.

[Paco664]

wonder how good that would work on .22lr??

not very portable tho...

[yondering]

With a 40 oz pistol can, whether it cycles or not is the least of your worries. That weight is ridiculous, and about 4x more than a "middle of the road" commercial or form 1 can.

This doesn't even fit the category of erring on the side of durability "cause it's a lifetime purchase!" mantra, because nobody's going to want to use a 40 oz pistol can for a lifetime, or even more than a few shots. A 3 oz can that blows up after 100 rounds might be more functional.

You could have built a 338 Lapua can for less weight than that, and it would probably still be way overbuilt.

[Hannibalbarca]

With a 40 oz pistol can, whether it cycles or not is the least of your worries. That weight is ridiculous, and about 4x more than a "middle of the road" commercial or form 1 can.

This doesn't even fit the category of erring on the side of durability "cause it's a lifetime purchase!" mantra, because nobody's going to want to use a 40 oz pistol can for a lifetime, or even more than a few shots. A 3 oz can that blows up after 100 rounds might be more functional.

You could have built a 338 Lapua can for less weight than that, and it would probably still be way overbuilt.

I'll be buying some ti cups and a ti tube then. First cup will still be ss.

Also funny you should mention 338 Lapua because my magnum/50bmg can will probably weigh well over 100 oz.
2.75 ID and 16.5 inches long
4.5 inch spacer
22 baffles

[yondering]

Why do you want to build such heavy cans?

[Hannibalbarca]

Why do you want to build such heavy cans?

Because I like the idea of a suppressor that will last basically forever and most of the time I shoot at the bench so it doesn't really matter to me.
I also started lifting weights so in a couple of years
Once I really developed some muscle it really won't bother me that much.

Also for the 50 bmg suppressor, well its 50 bmg. Isn't it better to over build? And the massive volume and number of baffles will yield a lot of suppression, probably more than any other suppressor for 50 bmg on the market and at only 650 dollars.

[yondering]

Isn't it better to over build?

No, not to the level you are taking it. You can achieve pretty much infinite durability at about 1/4 the weight of what you're planning. There's a lot more to it than just lifting weights. For example, with that lead anchor of a pistol can, all that extra weight will wear out the booster much faster, if it even works at all.

I also suspect your weights are way off. 6 oz for a booster? Better look somewhere else.

[ar15eric]

Why do you want to build such heavy cans?

Because I like the idea of a suppressor that will last basically forever and most of the time I shoot at the bench so it doesn't really matter to me.
I also started lifting weights so in a couple of years
Once I really developed some muscle it really won't bother me that much.

Also for the 50 bmg suppressor, well its 50 bmg. Isn't it better to over build? And the massive volume and number of baffles will yield a lot of suppression, probably more than any other suppressor for 50 bmg on the market and at only 650 dollars.

You can't build a can that will last forever. At some point the blast baffle will be eroded away. The only thing you need to worry about is the tube as that is the only part that is non-replaceable under current NFA laws. After so many rounds the supressor will need a recore by an SOT, so just find a good balance between weight and durability.

[Hannibalbarca]

Isn't it better to over build?

No, not to the level you are taking it. You can achieve pretty much infinite durability at about 1/4 the weight of what you're planning. There's a lot more to it than just lifting weights. For example, with that lead anchor of a pistol can, all that extra weight will wear out the booster much faster, if it even works at all.

I also suspect your weights are way off. 6 oz for a booster? Better look somewhere else.

If I could get 17-4 steel for everything I would make the weight a lot less. I'll try an see if I can find a tube In 17-4 stainless in 3" diameter if I can.

[fishman]

Isn't it better to over build?

No, not to the level you are taking it. You can achieve pretty much infinite durability at about 1/4 the weight of what you're planning. There's a lot more to it than just lifting weights. For example, with that lead anchor of a pistol can, all that extra weight will wear out the booster much faster, if it even works at all.

I also suspect your weights are way off. 6 oz for a booster? Better look somewhere else.

If I could get 17-4 steel for everything I would make the weight a lot less. I'll try an see if I can find a tube In 17-4 stainless in 3" diameter if I can.

3" for the 50bmg can, or for the pistol can?
2" is ridiculous for a pistol can. 3" is just insane.

[Hannibalbarca]

No, not to the level you are taking it. You can achieve pretty much infinite durability at about 1/4 the weight of what you're planning. There's a lot more to it than just lifting weights. For example, with that lead anchor of a pistol can, all that extra weight will wear out the booster much faster, if it even works at all.

I also suspect your weights are way off. 6 oz for a booster? Better look somewhere else.

If I could get 17-4 steel for everything I would make the weight a lot less. I'll try an see if I can find a tube In 17-4 stainless in 3" diameter if I can.

3" for the 50bmg can, or for the pistol can?
2" is ridiculous for a pistol can. 3" is just insane.

No 3 is for the 50 bmg can. It's actually not just 50 bmg. 338 Lapua, 416 barret, 375 h&h magnum and even 458 socom or anything else really.
It's a two piece with the first piece being 10 long and the second 5.75 not including threads.
The 5.75 would be for the 458 socom, 10 for 416 or lower and the full length for 50 bmg.

I have thought about an extremely thick but very short 4"( add a little for booster) inch pistol can with a 2.5 OD for 45.
If if in the future I decide to do something like that that I'll probably do square shaped can. It would stick out half an inch over the top and another 2.5 inches down the bottom and be 1.75 inches wide and 4 long with a monocore baffle design. Would need to have something like a 3 lug mount so the orientation would be correct.
Might be a little more in length for different end caps and the larger end cap(this would be rectangular and would have a threaded portion for the real end cap) would be attached by way of nuts and bolts with the nut being on the outside so you can take out the mono core.
Titanium for main body and end caps with 17-4 for mono core.

Currently I have a 10.75 all ss, 7 all ss, and 7 titanium with blast baffle ss - all maglight d cell with ss caps for 458, 357 and 308, a c cell maglight aluminum galvanized carbon steel shaped freeze plug 22, a stainless steel integral/attachable 12g suppressor and the 50bmg magnum can in the works.
I have the materials for the maglight cans except for the caps and will have a machine shop make me the things I need for the other two and the caps for the maglight stuff.
All solvent traps, no holes. If the hpa passes before the year I'll make 6 Suppressors and save 1200 dollars.

[alordnapa]

I think you are all under-valuing the potential use of a 40 ounce bludgeon mounted on the end of your handgun for pistol whipping, this way, you don't get all the icky stuff sticking to the weapon, and if the suppressor is hot enough, it can even cauterize the tears you make in flesh. Its a whole new concept in integration of LEO field gear! Also, just think of the muscles you would develop in your hands and wrists with frequent practice; a .500 S&W would feel like a toy in your hands after that.