Suppressor thread oil or lubricant - What is best?

[5th_Amendment]

I just received 3 suppressors and am curious what kind of oil or lubricant to use on the threads or internals? I am not interested in sound suppression, but merely what will not cook off, burn, stick or cause issues when heated to 800 degrees or more during use as I hear suppressors are apt to do.

I don't think my suppressor models matter, but just to put it out there: Silencerco Hybrid; Omega 9K; Warlock II.

Appreciate your thoughts. I've had to get help already since I think I forgot to lube a thread and it (really) stuck when only hand tight. I'm looking to be proactive and head off future "fun."

As a side note, I've heard that coating the internals of the Warlock might reduce foul language ... er ... fouling and make cleaning easier.

[mars]

Since you're new to the suppressor game, I'll help you out. You're wanting to keep your suppressor from getting stuck once threaded unto your barrel. No No No! The consensus around here is that a lot of cans come loose when shooting, especially when threads are lubed. You do not want to be shooting and have your can become loose. You are asking for baffle strikes or a can that gets blown up. What you want to do is get a little dab of blue loctite and put it on your threads, then put your can on it. This will keep your can from loosening when shooting. You're welcome.



/sarcasm

Ok I had to go there since you don't know how to use the search feature. White lithium grease is your answer.

[5th_Amendment]

As I said before, I'm not looking for sound suppression. Is white lithium grease good for threads too? I've heard it smokes when heated which tells me it's not a good choice for threads.

Yes, I'm aware that suppressors can come loose and cause baffle strikes. However, my thread pitch adapter for my CZ was screwed into my Hybrid and was in so tight (hand tight) I couldn't get it out. So, I almost turned my do everything suppresor into a single use can. Not optimal.

I bought a general oil (I have a pending divorce so most of my gear/supplies are in storage) but noted when I came home that the recommended operating temp was listed in very tiny print as -75F to +510F. Hm. I would assume, therefore, at +800F the oil would degrade or burn. Bad. Looking to leverage the wisdom of everyone here and avoid issues.

[doubloon]

I would leverage the wisdom of mars.

I use this, careful not to get any under the shoulder.



If you are unable to twist it off by hand I recommend one of these.



Skip the lube.

[Historian]

For baffles to make cleaning easy it has been recommended
warming tube and baffles and coating with ATF DOT 5 Silicone
fluid.

Previous posts here reference the easy of cleaning .22 dirty crudded baffles
with ease.

Best.

p.s., Dab of Permatex Anti-Seize on high temp threads
prevents galling and does not increase unwinding. For
point of reference, used on 1970 280SL steel threaded spark plugs
on Al Block and to this day the threads are pristine.

[fishman]

For baffles to make cleaning easy it has been recommended
warming tube and baffles and coating with ATF DOT 5 Silicone
fluid.

Previous posts here reference the easy of cleaning .22 dirty crudded baffles
with ease.

Best.

p.s., Dab of Permatex Anti-Seize on high temp threads
prevents galling and does not increase unwinding. For
point of reference, used on 1970 280SL steel threaded spark plugs
on Al Block and to this day the threads are pristine.

Remember, torque specs change when using antiseize.

[doubloon]

...
Remember, torque specs change when using antiseize.

Not that I believe it would impact me because I only hand tighten but what about torque when using pipe tape?

[Historian]

...
Remember, torque specs change when using antiseize.

Not that I believe it would impact me because I only hand tighten but what about torque when using pipe tape?

+1

As usual astute information.

Never heard of well machined can unthreading itself with
just firm tightening.

And one would be measuring torque in inch-pounds -- hopefully -- not foot-pounds.

Can extrapolate from torquing plugs and bolts on cars. MB recommended
lubing spark plugs before torquing into head ... never dry -- as the friction would give a
false reading. Otherwise an unhappy replacement of threads in head due to galling.

Thinking about it, anyone have actual an example of quality can unthreading itself?

Over the last 40 years there have been reported a few poorly made cans that 'launched
themselves' down range due to poor machining.

Old 1950's Institute Machine Shop sign: "Don't Force It! Use A Bigger Sledge Hammer".

[fishman]

...
Remember, torque specs change when using antiseize.

Not that I believe it would impact me because I only hand tighten but what about torque when using pipe tape?

And one would be measuring torque in inch-pounds -- hopefully -- not foot-pounds.

Why on earth would it matter what unit of torque one uses?

[doubloon]

...
Why on earth would it matter what unit of torque one uses?

Maybe because it would be cheaper?

Most of the wrenches I know of that go from <5-N ft.lbs are in the neighborhood of $200. I don't know that it would be necessary to go over 60 inch.lbs on a suppressor.

[Historian]

...
Why on earth would it matter what unit of torque one uses?

Maybe because it would be cheaper?

Most of the wrenches I know of that go from <5-N ft.lbs are in the neighborhood of $200. I don't know that it would be necessary to go over 60 inch.lbs on a suppressor.

+2!

Even more important when mounting a scope on a piece or rifle.
Unless of course it is Chi-Com Glass ....

Got mine from Midway*. I will not use my Snap-On Troque wrench on
any can.




* "Wheeler Engineering Digital FAT (Firearms Accurizing Torque)
Torque Wrench Screwdriver"

[starlingstalker]

My Spectre 2 and Sparrow both get extended drum dumps from 8 of the original metal 177 round drums to a pair of the Lexan 275 rounds at a time from the AM 180 and the best thing so far for the threads is the Versachem copper anti seize from O Reillys Auto Supply. Wore out the cans and completely gunked up the receiver before a clean up with 2K + rounds at the 4th of July shoot last month. But the cans threaded on and off and came apart without any fuss.
Looking at the label of the Versachem that it's rated to an optimistic 1800 degrees so it helps, especially with internal infrared readings at 500+ for a dinky 22 dump with Stingers. Also the lead spatter doesn't weld to the 17-4 stainless so much. A dollar bundle of pointed shish kebab bamboo sticks from walmart cleans threads, baffles and sharp corners of the lead krud nicely without scratches. But the searing heat can and does dry it out. To a gummy powder. So I'm really generous and sloppy coating all the internals and generous with the inside can threads before it goes back together.
So with the rationale that I wouldn't dare change spark plugs in a Ford Triton without anti seize on the plugs that with dissimilar metals especially aluminum- galling will occur without it to some degree. Steel included. And significant consequences.
Barrels mostly would and COULD turn into a BIG EMBEDDED spark plug locked into a can. But my can threads are still good as new. And seriously toasted. And roasted.
Add a snug set hand tight and ready for the next drum.
So, for me, I keep the grease worms generously fed with copper anti-seize and they are happy.... and so am !.
starlingstalker