I am going to weld my next silencer onto a short 300 blackout barrel to make the barrel 16 inches long. The silencer tube will be welded to the rear cap and the front cap will be threaded. The rear cap will extend over the barrel a few mm so that the weld is a few mm behind the shoulder of the barrel threads, allowing the weld to be cut off should the need arise without destroying the muzzle threads or shoulder.

How much weld is enough? I would prefer 2 or 3 very small beads to prevent heat damage and make it possible to cut the silencer off without trashing the barrel.

Morgan wrote:, allowing the weld to be cut off should the need arise without destroying the muzzle threads or shoulder.

and make it possible to cut the silencer off without trashing the barrel.

If you're already thinking in terms of removal "just in case," then don't pin and weld in the first place. An integral would be a more appropriate setup. Be nice to cans

Didn't pay for sbr and don't want to deal with the hassle of it, thus the permanent attaching.

E-filing a form 1 on a trust is almost as fast as welding the silencer onto the barrel.

The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to
the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of
attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod
into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the
furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and
measured

kanook: thanks, but that says nothing about whether you are expected to weld the entire circumference or not.

one small tack is considered permanent.

If you look at the weld that holds the vepr 12 shotgun's folding stock open to make it importable its less than .375 of an inch and hardly any penetration. To fold it all you had to do is depress the folding button and give it a whack. And the atf considers that permanent or it would not be importable.

and to be clear I made it 922r compliant before I popped the weld.

Although with muzzle stuff I believe it may have to be pinned and welded.


actualy the yellow in the post above is clear full weld or pinned and welded

This was talked about in the past. Fed's can argue the "how easy" part. Is it legal if I can break the pinning in 30sec flat and remove the item? Is a micro tack using laser good enough?

rodpiper wrote:This was talked about in the past. Fed's can argue the "how easy" part. Is it legal if I can break the pinning in 30sec flat and remove the item? Is a micro tack using laser good enough?

The regs state the proper ways for it to be acceptable.