Form 1 SBR confusion about engraving

[ThaDoubleJ]

I've searched all over. All the answers are different, and I'm stumped. I ordered a Spike's stripped lower, it'll be here tomorrow. I'd like to get it on paper as an SBR so I can build a .458 on it down the road. Half the internet says I must have it engraved, the other half says I don't have to. I'm not a manufacturer, I'm not going to sell it, I will move from this town someday, it will be on my trust. All I've learned for sure is that I must pick a caliber, multi is not OK. Can someone tell me the answer and point me to the webpage or whatever from the ATF that states the rules so I don't make a big mistake here?

[telero]

If you read the ATF form 5320.1 (Form 1 - Application to make and register a firearm), you'll see that your name and address (or your entities) goes in box 3b, "Applicant's name and address." Even if you are reusing another manufacturer's title 1 firearm, such as the Spikes lower, you are the maker of the Title 2 firearm, SBR in this case.

There is a difference between a manufacturer (licensed) and maker (unlicensed).

If you read 27 CFR 479.102 (http://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/27/479.102), you'll notice that part (a) says:
"You, as a manufacturer, importer, or maker of a firearm, must legibly identify the firearm as follows..."

So, since you are the maker listed on the Form 1 and identified as the applicant in box 3b, you must engrave the information required under the above rule. In the case of reusing another manufacturer's title 1 firearm, their serial number, caliber (if it's an allowed caliber for an NFA item, not multi), and model number. You will need to add your name and city/state where you make the firearm. If the caliber is listed on multi on the receiver, but your barrel has the caliber in a conspicuous place (not hidden from plain view) you shouldn't need to engrave a caliber on the lower.

One issue I've never seen come up is that as a maker or manufacturer you're not allowed to reuse a serial number. So if you've made a firearm as a maker in the past and end up with another manufacturer's firearm that somehow has the same serial number, you may have to choose a new serial number.

[ThaDoubleJ]

So am I the manufacturer, or my trust?

[telero]

Neither. Your trust is the maker.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Ok. I printed off the form from the ATF website today, I'll give it a good once over. Basically I'd need to engrave the lower with "Trust name" "City, State" and "Caliber" since the roll stamp on the barrel would be hidden under the handguards.

[telero]

Yep, that's about it.

If you're using a trust, may as well e-file. Really good thread about how to here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_17/41544 ... FORMS.html

[ThaDoubleJ]

Oh that page is awesome. I'll use that after I figure out this engraving thing, that was a step I didn't foresee.

[danb35]

You don't have to have the lower engraved before you file--some folks do, on the off chance that the engraver messes up, or the receiver gets lost in transit, but it isn't required. You may also want to engrave the barrel/upper, rather than the lower, with the caliber.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Do those fancy schmancy ejection port covers count as an engraved upper since they can't be removed without tools?

[RJT]

Dust cover is part of the upper. Engraving has to be on the lower receiver.

[telero]

Dust cover is part of the upper. Engraving has to be on the lower receiver.

Only the serial number has to be on the lower receiver. Other required markings can be on the barrel or slide. Would be interesting to know if the upper receiver would be a suitable alternative to a slide (since a traditional pistol slide and AR upper server essentially the same purpose), although I'm nearly certain the dust cover would not be acceptable.

[ThaDoubleJ]

I was just referring to the caliber on the ejection port cover.

Question #11: Can I just use a punch? Laser engraving is expensive as hell, more than the receiver as a matter of fact.

[telero]

As long as when you use the punch you get to .003" deep, which should be easy enough. "Impressing" the required information is allowed.

[O2HeN2]

I would, however, assemble it (with a long barrel) and go out and shoot it before sending in the form -- make sure it'll shoot. I've gotten one Spikes lower that had to be sent back for repair.

O2

[ThaDoubleJ]

I tried punching it with 1/8 punches. Depth was about .0000003". I'm going to harbor freight for a 1/16 set today.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Harbor freight doesn't have 1/16th punches, boo

[Bendersquint]

Why not just have it engraved and be done with it?

[ThaDoubleJ]

Indeed. Had it engraved with my Dremel just now. Doesn't look pretty, but it's legible, conspicuous, and into the metal. What a silly "law"

Thanks for the help everyone.

[Bendersquint]

Indeed. Had it engraved with my Dremel just now. Doesn't look pretty, but it's legible, conspicuous, and into the metal.

[ThaDoubleJ]

I know, I know. I'm doing three NFA items, Disneyland, and in the market for three cars. A corner had to get cut, and this was it. Well, this and the hotel in San Diego... And all three cars... lots of corners.

[telero]

Did you stamp out the letters with your stamp set and then go over them with a fine tip Dremel bit to get the required depth? Or just freehand it?

[ThaDoubleJ]

I wrote it with a pencil, erased, repeat about thirty times until I liked it, then used a thin diamond bit cylinder shape and cut with the edge at about setting two so it wouldn't get away from me.

[Modeler]

Indeed. Had it engraved with my Dremel just now. Doesn't look pretty, but it's legible, conspicuous, and into the metal.

Agreed