First Build

[Tracce]

Hello everyone, long time lurker, finally posting.

First off, I want to thank you all, especially those on this sub-board, for putting all the info out here for people like me who are interested in building NFA items. I credit you all with getting me on board building. I don't have any NFA items yet, but have a NFA trust and two approved Form 1's.

I plan to pick up a lathe in the near future and make chips before actually starting on the tube and baffles. I already have a small milling machine. My Form1's are for .308 and .458. I plan to use cone baffles, or possibly K baffles for the internals, and steel tube/end caps. I just have a couple of questions at this point that I wanted to toss out here.

First, I know that the blast baffle for the above calibers needs to be steel, but am not sure if the rest of the baffles can be made from aluminum. If so will the aluminum baffles last reasonably well, or should they all be steel?

Second, I want a QD option for these suppressors, but don't really like any of the options out there. Is there any reason that standard AR10 threads would not work, with a permanent ring on the barrel that has a plunger similar to that found on an AK front sight work? It would allow me to use a standard flash hider (with a small detent notch milled into it), but would secure the suppressor the barrel without allowing it to work itself loose.

Thank you all for your time and advice.

[Scared_of_zombies]

Hello everyone, long time lurker, finally posting.

First off, I want to thank you all, especially those on this sub-board, for putting all the info out here for people like me who are interested in building NFA items. I credit you all with getting me on board building. I don't have any NFA items yet, but have a NFA trust and two approved Form 1's.

I plan to pick up a lathe in the near future and make chips before actually starting on the tube and baffles. I already have a small milling machine. My Form1's are for .308 and .458. I plan to use cone baffles, or possibly K baffles for the internals, and steel tube/end caps. I just have a couple of questions at this point that I wanted to toss out here.

First, I know that the blast baffle for the above calibers needs to be steel, but am not sure if the rest of the baffles can be made from aluminum. If so will the aluminum baffles last reasonably well, or should they all be steel?

Second, I want a QD option for these suppressors, but don't really like any of the options out there. Is there any reason that standard AR10 threads would not work, with a permanent ring on the barrel that has a plunger similar to that found on an AK front sight work? It would allow me to use a standard flash hider (with a small detent notch milled into it), but would secure the suppressor the barrel without allowing it to work itself loose.

Thank you all for your time and advice.

I wouldn't recommend aluminum for rifle cans. Some builders have done it, but it will wear and fail much more quickly.

[Tracce]

Understood, I will go with full steel. Thank you.

[T-Rex]

Welcome to posting.

I would recommend separating your designs and creating a list of parameters.
What is your overall goal?
Length desires or requirements?
Size/OD constraints, need to see over for sights, etc?
Weight desires or requirements?
You've addressed threaded vs Welded.
You've addressed a desire for QD.
Rifle/pistol platform: semi, bolt, lever, etc?
Ammo to be used: subs, supers or a combo of both?

After listing these, you can begin a design.
Cones are better than Ks, in higher pressure conditions. A combo of both, cones first, can help with the "mainly subs with occasional super" catagory. All cones will work for both situations.

There are plenty of posts and members to speak for the credibility of metals. For higher pressure cartridges, a steel tube is best. Aluminum is up to the task as baffles, but is best placed after the first 2. Will AL last as long as 316 or Inconel? No, but it should not be used in place of. If you are making a can for rapid fire and mag dumps, stick to steel. If it will be used on a precision or slow fire platform, AL will suffice. If strength is an issue, over weight, I would stick with steel. I'm sure you cold get, nearly, a lifetime of use from a properly designed AL can. Remember, there is always Ti!

Now, get to drawing and post some prints.