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[Capt. Link.]

Silver solder must be done with care.A oxyacetylene torch adjusted to a slight oxidizing flame will be needed.I use a pickling solution to clean the metal then a borax paste flux.Both pieces are tinned then reheated and joined.The trick is to get the metal as clean as possible so it will wet.The flame must not be directed onto the surfaces to be joined and the heat must be slowly and evenly applied.If the solder balls up and dose not flow its to hot and the metal must be re-cleaned fluxed and tinning tried again.You must have room for the solder to flow just don't let it screw up your alignment.

-CL

[sickasssig]

thats gonna be a cool little gun what is it a 10/22 and please show us the completed setup once finished good luck oh yeah and a little video to top it off

[0101silent]

Silver solder must be done with care.A oxyacetylene torch adjusted to a slight oxidizing flame will be needed.I use a pickling solution to clean the metal then a borax paste flux.Both pieces are tinned then reheated and joined.The trick is to get the metal as clean as possible so it will wet.The flame must not be directed onto the surfaces to be joined and the heat must be slowly and evenly applied.If the solder balls up and dose not flow its to hot and the metal must be re-cleaned fluxed and tinning tried again.You must have room for the solder to flow just don't let it screw up your alignment.

-CL

When I bought the solder I thought it would be as easy as soldering a pipe. It sounds like an art form. I don't have the equipment or experience.
I'll either take it to a shop to get it pinned and welded or use this project as an excuse to buy a welder. Thanks for the tip.

[silencer_kid]

Silver solder must be done with care.A oxyacetylene torch adjusted to a slight oxidizing flame will be needed.I use a pickling solution to clean the metal then a borax paste flux.Both pieces are tinned then reheated and joined.The trick is to get the metal as clean as possible so it will wet.The flame must not be directed onto the surfaces to be joined and the heat must be slowly and evenly applied.If the solder balls up and dose not flow its to hot and the metal must be re-cleaned fluxed and tinning tried again.You must have room for the solder to flow just don't let it screw up your alignment.

-CL

When I bought the solder I thought it would be as easy as soldering a pipe. It sounds like an art form. I don't have the equipment or experience.
I'll either take it to a shop to get it pinned and welded or use this project as an excuse to buy a welder. Thanks for the tip.

one of the tiny 120/240v miller tote TIG's would be nice. "soldering" in general is the same as doing copper sweat, but the technique and environment are factors for success when doing it at the higher temps w/ different metals. you might also try a jewelers torch using oxy-propane, i have used the tiny torch with oxy-propane to weld on some fence gate hinges because i could not get my miller mig or my esab tig out to the location (and i dont have std oxy welding/cutting torch). a trick to jewelers torch --> if you need more heat you can open up a tip with a drill bit. its always test/practice before bringing in the real piece, etc.

[Capt. Link.]

The skills of tig & mig would be easier to find at a local level.You can mail it to a 02/07 as well.
-CL

[Sevo]

It looks great! Do you mind posting more about the build? How you did the work?

I look forward to the video

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[Elkins45]

Ver clever using a predrilled barrel as your blank. I wondered how you managed to drill a straight hole that long until I read your post again. I wish you luck on your soldering.

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[Capt. Link.]

You should have lots of suppression.Looks great and looking forward to the field report.
-CL

[mr fixit]

You should have lots of suppression.Looks great and looking forward to the field report.
-CL

Capt, I wonder what you think of the 45 degree plunge cuts, versus the 90 degree of your own design as built by (I think) Enfield?
Is there an advantage to the 45* slant?

[Capt. Link.]

You should have lots of suppression.Looks great and looking forward to the field report.
-CL

Capt, I wonder what you think of the 45 degree plunge cuts, versus the 90 degree of your own design as built by (I think) Enfield?
Is there an advantage to the 45* slant?

You could do it with different porting and a gradual change from 90* to 45* to limit yaw.I would also change/modify the first few chambers or use a longer barrel and fewer chambers.You would be changing how the baffles work by slanting them so I can't say if it would be a improvement to this well working but low pressure monocore.
-CL
This is 577's build (viewtopic.php?f=10&t=112842&p=855602&hi ... re#p855602)

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[Elkins45]

That kind of inaccuracy sounds like baffle strikes. Take a look at your bore holes and see if you can see lead ruboff.

[Capt. Link.]

No problem PM sent.

[daviscustom]

Have you paid any attention to the bore since you shot it? I have had more then one brand new barrel lead up on me and accuracy quickly went crap.

[0101silent]

Have you paid any attention to the bore since you shot it? I have had more then one brand new barrel lead up on me and accuracy quickly went crap.

I cleaned the barrel after I did the pin and weld and I haven't cleaned it since then.
It is a KIDD barrel and it is lead lapped at the factory if that makes a difference.
After 50 rounds it was obvious that I wasn't getting any sort of group.
I checked my scope and mounts. They were secure. In hindsight I should have mounted a different scope to eliminate a source of error.
You are correct that cleaning the bore could have helped, it definitely wouldn't have hurt accuracy.

I continued to fire over 300 more rounds to test the function. It cycled perfectly but it never shot straight.
There were no obvious signs of baffle strikes, but that doesn't mean that it didn't happen.

[a_canadian]

It'd have to be fairly wildly warped for a baffle strike with a 0.30" bore. Either that or a very significantly asymmetrical crown or some serious damage to one edge of the crown. Though you've left a fairly short barrel, quite a few folks seem to have made integrals with 4" total barrel length without such accuracy problems, which is shorter than the 3.75" rifled portion you're using if I'm understanding that correctly - this means you've got at least 0.6" of chamber behind that, right?

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[a_canadian]

I very much doubt that drilling the bore larger than 0.30" is going to do anything besides reducing suppression efficiency. 0.30" on a .22" suppressor is excessively large as it is, with most commercial monocore or baffle systems having no larger than 0.28" from what I've seen here and elsewhere, and most having 0.265" bores. In my own experience with airgun suppression I've found no difficulty at all with stability even with an asymmetrical pattern (K baffles with all the ports lined up the same way - a similar mono-directional bias to what your slanted chambers delivers) and a 0.25" bore. No need to go larger than that on at least an 8" baffle stack if your alignment to the bore is good. Going to 1/2" bore is just killing almost all potential for noise suppression. May as well have an empty volume in that length of tube as the expansion space is the only remaining benefit with such a huge bore.

I use a 0.22" rod polished to fit neatly and easily into my barrels and rolled across thick glass in several directions to check for true as a runout gauge and if a suppressor endcap shows more than about a 0.01" bias I won't use it as getting too close on one side will definitely cause POI shift. In one case where I made about a 10" long can I did bore the second half of the baffle stack out to 0.27" just to be safe, but it probably wasn't necessary. For comparison, diabolo (waisted) pellets are much more susceptible to baffle-induced instability than .22lr bullets, especially considering the much lower rifling twist rate of airgun barrels.

[daviscustom]

I didn't read back through everything to see if you said.....but is the core and barrel tensioned inside your tube with the end cap? If the core is tweaked, I see no reason not to carefully try to straighten it....what do you have to loose? ....and if your core isn't tensioned in the tube, that may help too.

[Capt. Link.]

With the large number of chambers plus the volume you can bore the core out without much if any loss in suppression.A tight bore never helps accuracy and many baffle designs don't need one for suppression.
-CL

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