22 freeze/expansion plug suppressor

[stick1]

Thanks Sub for all the info.

[sub-sonic]

I wonder where the "knee" in performance is in the sound reduction vs. length. I saw where a previous poster went with 10", I'd like to go with 8" or so. Any idea what the optimal length is for this type design?

for .22rf I think 6" is enough

[arta]

Sub, what is the recipe for the load you used in the last youtube video? Crazy quite!

[sub-sonic]

the load is 7.62x39 improved. see my post in handloading viewtopic.php?t=50353
R-P small primer brass
winchester primer
8 grains of trailboss pushing a 220 grain cast lead bullet @950 fps
I seat the bullet along way out so its only in the neck not the case

its basicaly the same load I use in all the movies
started with 7.3 grains and went to 8 and played around with seating depth
I also changed from 230 grain bullets to 220 grain bullets only because I cant get the 230's at this time.

[schmellba]

did you just heat till red hot and then drop the red hot baffle into water to heat treat?

or did you do some type of hardening?

I've heard of heating till red hot and then burying in crushed charcoal to increase the carbon in the steel, then do the heat and quench

I did a fair amount of research on the heat treating process when I built mine (used the same freeze plugs).

I heated them with a MAPP torch until they were just beyond red hot, but not quite orange hot. Quenched them for 10 seconds in motor oil, then let them cool to room temperature. This hardens the steel, but also makes it brittle.

After they cooled, I took a propane torch and heated them to roughly 400 degrees (you should see a blue line form and expand away from the heat source. Once that line hit the edge of the skirt, remove the heat). Once you hit the 400 degree mark, remove the heat and let it air cool back to room temperature. This toughens the steel. It's not as hard as when it was quenched, but significantly harder than before any treatment and much more flexible and tougher than post quenching.

I used a reflex design in mine. 1.75" OD x .065" wall pipe. 11" overall length, with about 5" of reflex. No science behind the design - I basically picked a lenght of reflex that I liked the way it looked. Single point mount (used a flash hider that I bored several additional holes in to direct gas backwards) and 4 baffles plus the end cap. Works extremely well - reduces a normal .223 load sound report down to roughly a .22 long rifle report. No hearing protection required when shooting, and I have found that I actually like the additional weight on the front end of the M4. I think overall weight was somewhere around 22 oz, so it's not the lightest out there, but it was cheap and it works great.

[IAC533]

they were all compresses before welding.

Could you explain further (or Pics) You had mentioned threaded rod and nuts, but OBVIOUSLY(?) you'd only be able to have a nut on the outside of the first and last baffleCorrect?

[sub-sonic]

they were all compresses before welding.

Could you explain further (or Pics) You had mentioned threaded rod and nuts, but OBVIOUSLY(?) you'd only be able to have a nut on the outside of the first and last baffleCorrect?

when I put the baffles and spacers in I make sure each one is seated properly before putting the next one in. when its all done I put a threaded rod through the whole unit. it has washers and nuts at the ends of the silencer. yes on the outside. then I tighten the nuts so the there is alot of pressure on the ends. then I give it a few taps with a mallet and weld both ends.
I have never had any loose baffles when using this method.

[IAC533]

Thanks. I'm starting construction phase of my form 1. Just a few more details to iron out. In fact I have a baffle question I'm gonna ask as soon as I find the damn camera!!

[libertyman777]

This is GTG.

[Moose57]

So, anyone built another suppressor like this? How'd it turn out?

Paul

[JBowen747]

im new to this forum and really like this post really great stuff!!! i would like explain how to properly do home heat treating ( even though everyone might have a different way to do it this is a really good way and gives you a rockwell hardness of 90 to 95 and yes i have tested on a hardness tester at work)because not only do you want to harden the metal but you want to anneal the metal to so its not brittle. heat the metal untill the part is a yellow/ orange color , and then dunk it in coolant ( i use a mix of water, table salt and dish washing liquid but you can use oil too just becareful ) now that your part is hardened clean off the scale that builds up with emery cloth or a scotchbright pad lightly try not to remove metal just the scale. and for the annealing process the way i do it gives you a very consistent annealing of the steel. Get a metal container of some kind that is 3" deep and 5 to 6" in dia ( it can be bigger if needed) and place your harded parts in the pan and fill with dot 3 brake fluid just over the top of the parts your annealing and add a very very small amout of lighter fluid or gas on top of the fluid so it can be lit easier. now dot 3 brake fluid burts at about 750 degrees the ideal temp for annealing of steel and it will take about 20 or 30 minutes to let the oil burn completely off. now please dont do this in your house it stinks and isnt very safe i do mine on concrete outside when its not very windy out and away from all flammable materials. you will be able to see that the metal has been heat treated very evenly and has a case colored look to it clean the scale off again as mentioned above and polish or add a paint or coating if you would like

[!!!]

what are you guys doing to thread your barrels? i got a 10/22 that has the iron sights on it how i do go about threading it to fit a can? also is a flash hinder or a compensator necessary? whats the best thread size and overall can length for a 10/22? sorry if these question seem stupid. thanks for input.

[jdm033056]

Along the lines of heat treating, if using Stainless Steel expansion plugs is heat treating needed...

[jlwilliams]

what are you guys doing to thread your barrels? i got a 10/22 that has the iron sights on it how i do go about threading it to fit a can? also is a flash hinder or a compensator necessary? whats the best thread size and overall can length for a 10/22? sorry if these question seem stupid. thanks for input.

There are so many threaded barrels available for the 10-22 that it may be simpler and maybe even cheaper to buy a threaded barrel than it is to have your barrel threaded. As far as the sights go, many people just shoot it scoped and skip the irons in part becasue it's an added expense to relocate the sight. As far as if you 'need' a flash hider, in the context of the can that the OP built a flash hider was used as the female threads in the can. You could build something similar to his with a different mounting system. Take what you need from this thread and combine it with ideas from elsewhewre to make what works for you. For example, I'm planning on filing a form 1 for an integral 10-22 over the winter and I may use the freeze plug baffles.

[!!!]

what are you guys doing to thread your barrels? i got a 10/22 that has the iron sights on it how i do go about threading it to fit a can? also is a flash hinder or a compensator necessary? whats the best thread size and overall can length for a 10/22? sorry if these question seem stupid. thanks for input.

There are so many threaded barrels available for the 10-22 that it may be simpler and maybe even cheaper to buy a threaded barrel than it is to have your barrel threaded. As far as the sights go, many people just shoot it scoped and skip the irons in part becasue it's an added expense to relocate the sight. As far as if you 'need' a flash hider, in the context of the can that the OP built a flash hider was used as the female threads in the can. You could build something similar to his with a different mounting system. Take what you need from this thread and combine it with ideas from elsewhewre to make what works for you. For example, I'm planning on filing a form 1 for an integral 10-22 over the winter and I may use the freeze plug baffles.

thanks for clearing that up for me. i will probably go the threaded barrel route looks about the simplest to go. i already have several different scopes to try out for 10/22. this is probably THE thread got motivated to do this.

[eseaton]

tag

[Sergeant]

So, anyone built another suppressor like this? How'd it turn out?

Paul

I have built a .308 can using this method. It has a 2 point mount giving a 4" expansion chamber in front of the blast baffle. Then 5 freeze plugs with 5/8" spacers between each. It is defiantly hearing safe but I don't have a production can to do a comparison. Later I built a clone using 4 steel stepped baffles. They have a different pitch to them but about the same noise reduction to the naked ear. It would be nice to compare them using sound equipment but they are hearing safe and that was my goal.
Steve

[sonicdmb]

I,ve built one for my .243 based on the T8 layout. 8 baffles with o-rings sealing to the barrel and a homemade 3 hole muzzle brake with 3 legs threaded to connect to the barrel. the baffles are pressed in then welded fully at the front and through 3 holes drilled through the tube at the rear. the first 7 baffles are 3 leg to save weight the last one left intact to avoid alignment problems for the welds. All baffle holes where reamed to size in place and the reamer used to hold the muzzle brake and baffles in line for welding. The result sounds like my .22lr without its moderator no muzzle flash less recoil and the extra weight is far outweighed (pardon the pun) by the benefits for lamping foxes. Although they might not agree.

[Moose57]

Sergeant and sonicdmb,

Care to elaborate more on your suppressors? Size, weight, what materials used, suppliers, etc? I'm especially interested in the 2 point mount you came up with Sergeant. And pictures would be awesome!

Paul

[jdm033056]

Sonic, are you shooing full loads or subsonic in your 243.

[sonicdmb]

Sonic, are you shooing full loads or subsonic in your 243.

I use full loads a 58 grain Hornady ballisic tip moly bullet over N140 this is for lamping foxes and off the shelf 100s for deer. I don't really have any need for subsonic rounds. I control foxes over three ajoining farms the suppressor gets rid of the flash and lets me see the result of my shot and lets me go round without ear plugs, it has let me shoot two foxes one after the other when without you'd leave them there are enough lamp shy foxes as it is.

[Ander254]

anyone bought the freeze/expansion plugs recently at napa? Looking for a part number for a deep cup 1 5/8 thanks


google-fu is on point this morning. 1961 Dodge Dart uses 1 5/8 freeze plugs

Napa Part SEP 3813041 for the Deep Cup Steel

[Joat]

Here is a site that covers heat treating, with some simple instructions.

http://www.hocktools.com/diyht.htm

Joat

Lurking for over 2 years without a post

[cuban11182]

So I'm looking at the exhaust tubing and find that 16 gauge 1 3/4 tubing is approximately 1.624 ID which should suffice for the 1 5/8 plugs. I've also found some DOM (drawn over mandrel) steel tubing that is 2" with a 1.624 ID and it's seemless. The 16 gauge walls are .065 thick and the DOM is .188.

I'm going to assume that the DOM is much sturdier and heavier, but is it overkill? Should I just go with the 16 gauge?

Also with the blast baffle, is it a better idea just to get a stainless 1 5/8 plug since I won't be welding it to the tube? I think the stainless would hold up to the blast much better than the hardened steel ones.

[KimberLover]

How about a picture of the insides?