has anyone ever bought a nielson device from gemtech or any other company and successfully used it on a homebuilt can?i found a couple for sale and was thinking that it might be worth a shot to use on a glock or some such other pistol.

macgyver6868 wrote:has anyone ever bought a nielson device from gemtech or any other company and successfully used it on a homebuilt can?i found a couple for sale and was thinking that it might be worth a shot to use on a glock or some such other pistol.

It could be done. I considered doing it... but my can will be 1.5" OD and most modules are 1-3/8" or 1-1/4" OD and the step would look goofy.

So I ended up designing a standard booster design. It's just a hollow tube-like piston with a spring around it. Add in a retaining ring as the suppressor rear end cap and your good to go.

What kind of spring is ideal for a nielson device?

You are going to have to test different ones to find the one that works best. Just try and get as many pictures of different neilson devices and get an idea what you need. I know the Evo and the Trident have completely diffent springs. John has pictures of each on www.Silencerresearch.com look at the 9mm tests.

there are several on gunbroker.you could just buy one and study it.

Pneumagger,

Those omega baffles looks to be excessively thick.

macgyver6868 wrote:has anyone ever bought a nielson device from gemtech or any other company and successfully used it on a homebuilt can?i found a couple for sale and was thinking that it might be worth a shot to use on a glock or some such other pistol.

AWC makes/made a Nielsen device for attachment on their Abraxas cans which is totally independent of any speciall threading into the body of the suppressor. Mine is threded 1/2x28 male where it screws into the can and 1/2x28 female where it mates to the barrel. I found it on gunbroker when an SOT in CT went out of business. He said it was a leftover from when he sold a bunch of titanium Abraxas cans. IIRC, even though it is not a "silencer component", AWC will not sell you one unless you have one of their Abraxas cans.

Both mpallett and rsilvers have tried this AWC booster on a Glock with a a couple of nonboostered cans and it worked fine. I have used it with my SRT Matrix can and it has yet to give me any problems.

jandbj wrote:AWC makes/made a Nielsen device for attachment on their Abraxas cans which is totally independent of any speciall threading into the body of the suppressor. Mine is threded 1/2x28 male where it screws into the can and 1/2x28 female where it mates to the barrel. I found it on gunbroker when an SOT in CT went out of business. He said it was a leftover from when he sold a bunch of titanium Abraxas cans. IIRC, even though it is not a "silencer component", AWC will not sell you one unless you have one of their Abraxas cans.

How about this: if I play around with a few designs and make a booster or two to try out before getting my Form 1 approved, would I be screwed?

I think so. any part of a suppressor is a suppressor.Unless you have a can that it fits on that has a form.

jimmym40a2 wrote:I think so. any part of a suppressor is a suppressor.Unless you have a can that it fits on that has a form.

So would that mean I could have a can with a booster back and and a normal back end if say, I wanted more thread patterns or to fit it on a pistol that doesn't need a booster and a pistol that does? This would be nice to know if I end up making a 9mm AR and make a form 1 suppressor for it. If I can have a spare booster for that I could use the same suppressor on a 9mm pistol.

jimmym40a2 wrote:I think so. any part of a suppressor is a suppressor.Unless you have a can that it fits on that has a form.

So how does that legally work? The reason I ask is you can buy extra parts for the boosters (an example would be on YHM's site) they sell the pistons, etc... straight from their site. Just a noob here asking how this is then illegal?

jandbj wrote:

macgyver6868 wrote:has anyone ever bought a nielson device from gemtech or any other company and successfully used it on a homebuilt can?i found a couple for sale and was thinking that it might be worth a shot to use on a glock or some such other pistol.

AWC makes/made a Nielsen device for attachment on their Abraxas cans which is totally independent of any speciall threading into the body of the suppressor. Mine is threded 1/2x28 male where it screws into the can and 1/2x28 female where it mates to the barrel. I found it on gunbroker when an SOT in CT went out of business. He said it was a leftover from when he sold a bunch of titanium Abraxas cans. IIRC, even though it is not a "silencer component", AWC will not sell you one unless you have one of their Abraxas cans.

Both mpallett and rsilvers have tried this AWC booster on a Glock with a a couple of nonboostered cans and it worked fine. I have used it with my SRT Matrix can and it has yet to give me any problems.

Pictures of the beast would be nice

paco ramirez wrote:Pneumagger,

Those omega baffles looks to be excessively thick.

Most likely. it's just a mock up of the model.
I'll probably look into the tickness of them more after doing the Mass properties trade-off analysis.

so,are boosters actually considered a suppressor part?

im having this same problem i need to build a booster for my 9mm can for my beretta. the big question i have is how do i know how much force it takes to make the gun work and how do i know i will create this much force. another thing i see on alot of booster is holes before the piston surface. i assume these are to bleed off some of the pressure. how do i know how big to make them.

idpasharpshooter wrote:im having this same problem i need to build a booster for my 9mm can for my beretta. the big question i have is how do i know how much force it takes to make the gun work and how do i know i will create this much force. another thing i see on alot of booster is holes before the piston surface. i assume these are to bleed off some of the pressure. how do i know how big to make them.

I would think that you would want to start with a spring that is equal to the main recoil spring, and then if needed make adjustment. But that is just a logical guess.

ddrongowski wrote:

idpasharpshooter wrote:im having this same problem i need to build a booster for my 9mm can for my beretta. the big question i have is how do i know how much force it takes to make the gun work and how do i know i will create this much force. another thing i see on alot of booster is holes before the piston surface. i assume these are to bleed off some of the pressure. how do i know how big to make them.

I would think that you would want to start with a spring that is equal to the main recoil spring, and then if needed make adjustment. But that is just a logical guess.

FYI, the spring in my Evo .40 feels about ten times stronger than my USP recoil spring - I can just barely pull it back. I would start at least twice as strong and work my way up from there, or maybe even start too high and work backwards.