Thread question. How long is too long?

RyanS · Post by **RyanS** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:23 am

I recently picked up my Element and just got back my Ruger 10/22 from my gun smith who cut back the barrel and threaded it. When I got home and compared the threading on the barrel to that on the suppressor, it appeared that it might be too long from the muzzle to the shoulder. I attached the suppressor without any problems. I removed the tail cap from the suppressor and then attached that to the barrel and the barrel extended beyong the tail cap into what would be the blast chamber. There is a gap however between the blast baffle and the muzzle. I then recalled that I had a set of calipers and after finally locating them at about midnight, I measured the threading on the barrel to app. .6" from the muzzle to the shoulder.

Is this too much? Is there going to be a problem? I'm concerned for several reasons.

1) Is the distance from the muzzle to the blast baffle going to result in too much energy being transferred to the baffle stack?

2) Is the distance from the muzzle to the blast baffle, or the fact that the barrel extends into the blast chamber going to diminish the effectiveness of the suppressor?

3) Is the fact that a portion of the threading is going to be located in the blast chamber going to result in the threading getting gunked up and thus complicating removal of the suppressor?

Sorry if I'm not using the correct terminology here. Please go easy on me.

delmccormick · Post by **delmccormick** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:57 am

Just had this exact same issue. Your guy basically threaded it just like he always does for an AR15 F/H, or whatever. Give him an Element thread print from the Silencersmithing section (sticky at the top) and have him chop it and clean it up. My guy was apologetic, he said he didn't find the print I left in the bag with the rifle. You could also give him a lone wolf 9mm barrel, or TacSol upper if you have one, and just say, like this, please.

Conqueror · Post by **Conqueror** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:04 pm

RyanS wrote:3) Is the fact that a portion of the threading is going to be located in the blast chamber going to result in the threading getting gunked up and thus complicating removal of the suppressor?

This is the big issue, and yes, it will be a serious problem if you shoot a substantial amount of ammo. Either have your smith re-do the threads with the right amount of length, or have him make you a spacer to keep the threads inside the endcap. ARs usually have threads 0.600" long so the spacer usually needs to be 0.200" or thereabouts.

chrismartin · Post by **chrismartin** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:10 pm

Your concerns are very appropriate.

I had a .22lr pistol that was threaded with around .5 from the shoulder to the muzzle.
It was by far the loudest pistol because the first chamber was completely useless. It was also blasting the first baffle much more than it should.

Tornado Technologies fixed it for me. He shaved off the muzzle end, re-crowned and re-blued and fixed me right up. It shoots just as well as it did before and now it doesn't blast my first baffle and it is a little more quiet, on par with my other pistols.

Here are some pictures of my problem...

With a ~.4 thread protector from my Tactical Solutions barrel showing how much extra is shoved into the silencer:

RyanS · Post by **RyanS** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:46 pm

I was afraid of this. I checked with my smith and said that he won't be able to cut the barrel back any further to shorten up the threading. When he cut back the barrel, he didn't really leave much left over 16 inches. He said that my only option would be to use a spacer. He suggested a crush washer.

Will a crush washer solve the problem?

chrismartin · Post by **chrismartin** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:07 pm

NEVER use a crush washer. It can crush incorrectly and tilt your silencer off to one side, leading to baffle or end cap strikes. Plus, I would worry about the amount of torque you would need to apply to get it to crush in the first place.

I would have a threaded washer made, cut down to the proper length and make it perpendicular to the bore. I would then rocksett it to the barrel making it permanent. If that is not possible, I'd get a properly machined washer made like the above, just without the threads.

The key is the washer must be perfect, this will not be an item your would pick up at lowes.

chrismartin · Post by **chrismartin** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:08 pm

Is this a special 10/22 barrel, bull barrel? Stock? what?

RyanS · Post by **RyanS** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:32 pm

It's a standard barrel. I was trying to get started economically.

chrismartin · Post by **chrismartin** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:39 pm

Check this thread out:

http://www.silencertalk.com/silencer-fo ... hp?t=46081

PM him or whatever and see if he has any more available.
I bought one from him for my AR15 barrel incase I want to shoot a .22lr conversion on it.

RyanS · Post by **RyanS** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 2:09 pm

Problem solved. We are going to start over.

YugoRPK · Post by **YugoRPK** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:51 pm

http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/stor ... roduct=155

Thread question. How long is too long?

Thread question. How long is too long?

Re: Thread question. How long is too long?