effect of a muzzlebrake inside a can?

[maccrazy2]

I have seen a few designs that use a muzzle brake inside of the blast chamber. Does anyone have any hands on expirence with this type of design? I am interested to know if it makes and diffrence in recoil when inside of a can? I am contemplating a design like Jimmys .408 can or similar but with a muzzle brake/blastbaffle design added. Any suggestions?

[Wicked]

I built a thread-on F1 5.56mm suppressor that uses a Jet brake/mount. It was easier to buy this than make it, cost me about $90 and came with a collar to protect the threads when the cans not on the gun.. Threads on I.D. are 1/2-28 for .223, but they make 5/8" thread for .308 too, and O.D. is a 20mm thread [EDIT - CORRECTION - 22mm x 1.0). I can't tell you it does anything for recoil reduction as I can't shoot it without the brake. My guess would be it's probably doesn't help very much though. I used the brake it primarily to protect the blast baffle from erosion.

Jet brake/mount:


Threads on can:


Can threaded on brake/mount:

[GBI96]

From everything I have heard and read, there is no effect of a brake inside of a suppressor, except to act as an additional blast baffle system to extend the life of the suppressor.

Major Malfuction started this thread a few months back that full details why brakes are a good thing to use with suppressors, especially on SBR's.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56771

[ffemt596]

Where did you get this?

I built a thread-on F1 5.56mm suppressor that uses a Jet brake/mount. It was easier to buy this than make it, cost me about $90 and came with a collar to protect the threads when the cans not on the gun.. Threads on I.D. are 1/2-28 for .223, but they make 5/8" thread for .308 too, and O.D. is a 20mm thread. I can't tell you it does anything for recoil reduction as I can't shoot it without the brake. My guess would be it's probably doesn't help very much though. I used the brake it primarily to protect the blast baffle from erosion.

Jet brake/mount:


Threads on can:


Can threaded on brake/mount:

[Bowen1911]

http://www.tactical-life.com/online/gun ... ppression/

this says the brake is threaded 3/4-24 for the OD threads

I do like the look of the brake for a form 1. how well does the taper hold it on?

[Wicked]

I think these Jet brakes are the cat's ass. They're the best way for a F1 builder to get a brake inside a can, outside of designing and building one yourself. And you'd never build it yourself for the retail price, so why bother? As soon as I saw one of these mounts on the Jet web site; I knew I should design a can around it. http://www.jetsuppressors.com/accessories.html. Jet never answered my e-mails so I didn't get it from them. They have terrible customer service, do a search on here or snipershide.com. They do have a neat mount though.

The brake/mount was purchased from Patriot Ordinance Factory (POF). http://www.pof-usa.com/main.htm. It isn't listed on their web site anymore but shoot them an e-mail and they will get you squared away. I just got another one about two weeks ago, so I know they have them. Like I said, I think the cost was around $90. Ask for the Jet brake with the mount, because there is also a plain one without the external threads and the taper for around $55.

The taper isn't a real taper, it's a 45 degree angle. It's not self locking as the angle is much too great, anything more than 20 deg. and it won't really lock. It's more for alignment, but does provide a good degree of retention. I chased the threads in the can to fit the brake and the suppressor snugs up super solid; tight as a drum. It technically doesn't lock, and will come loose if I torque on it. It has not loosened up on it's own though. I run it on a bolt gun.

I guessed earlier and it's been awhile, so just went in the back and threw my spare brake up on the comparator. The external thread is metric - 22mm x 1.0. They may have made them oddball for a reason? Not sure. Anyhow, I don't care if these will or won't fit Jet suppressors as I would never buy one. I will continue to use these nifty brakes/mounts on everything I build on a F1 though.

[Bowen1911]

hmm.. I kinda want to use the YHM QD 5.56 brake and do something like what 2 others did here, but that requires cutting internal acme threads unless it is 3/4-8 tpi (found a tap, which would be nice), and some milling on the backside every few degrees... and the 45 degree would be easier...

how do you think it would hold up on an AR?

[Wicked]

I have seen at least one F1 can here done on the YHM QD and it looked nice. I ain't 'effen with acme threads though, I'm not that good with the lathe.

I see no reason why these would not hold up to service on an AR. It works for Jet. And, if you're chasing your own threads (on the can) you can make 'em as tight as you want.

[SRM]

Acme threads aren`t nbd. Take a look at CS Hydrill and tell me what you think

[JohnnyO]

Something like this.

I can tell you that with my .50 bmg can the brake is definitely more effective without the tube around it.

[Mongo]

Muzzle brake in a suppressor will increase the pressure on the walls of the suppressor and can bulge them. The can in the area of the brake needs to be stronger to compensate for this.

[maccrazy2]

I will be making a 50bmg supressor after I do the .243 and .308 cans. That is my main reason for asking this question. I will likely make the 308 and 50 cans scale versions of eachother.