OutBack II Rebuild

[AgentAdam]

What is the going rate for Gemtech to rebuild an Outback II with new baffles ,end caps,and send it back un-sealed. If they destroy the tube how do I go about paying the $200 tax again? Would I have to go threw the process of drawing up a trust,sending in a form 4,and wait again?

[Ray Barnes]

Contact Gemtech. They will know.

[robpiat]

I wouldn't send it back to gemtech. I think Liberty suppressors does a monocore rebuild on these, right?

[JohnDS]

I had liberty do the monocore, it's louder and heavier. I'll be sending my liberty cored outback to Gemtech to get the original guts put back in.

$140 for the service, includes return shipping.

I suggest putting a note to not lock-tite the end cap, then you can take it apart and clean it yourself. This is what I currently do with my other Outback II.

Just be careful when you have the outback taken apart to not drop it, aluminum gets dinged pretty easy.

[AgentAdam]

Thanks. I already have mine apart but the baffles wont come out. It needs new guts anyways.

I already have a SS mono stack can w/ aluminum tube and it's pretty heavy. Not as quiet either.

[Bendersquint]

I called to have Gemtech recore an Outback and leave it serviceable and was told I should have bought an Alpine if I felt a need to be able to clean it.....this was about 2 minutes after they said that you don't need to clean cans thats why they are sealed! They said they wouldn't return it serviceable!

Thank God I don't own a Gemtech Outback, was calling for a friend in AF.

-B

[bigbigpig]

I had called them a few months ago to ask them the same. I told them that I had disassembled my Outback II but maybe wanted new baffles anyway. I believe they said it would be $100 for new baffles if I had already taken it apart myself. They also said they could leave it user serviceable so I could take it apart and clean it myself.

[bigbigpig]

Thanks. I already have mine apart but the baffles wont come out. It needs new guts anyways.

I already have a SS mono stack can w/ aluminum tube and it's pretty heavy. Not as quiet either.

I took mine apart... here's my thread with pictures on how to take it apart. Make sure you get the threaded spacer out of the end!

http://silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=47241

[AgentAdam]

Did you send it in or did they mail you a new baffle stack? Can you send the thread adapter end cap out for anodizing or is it a main part?

[bigbigpig]

I didn't end up sending it. But they said if I sent them just the baffles then they would send me 6 new ones back for $100. Then I could put them in myself. I'm not sure what you mean by your 2nd question... what do you mean by the main part?

[Bendersquint]

AgentAdam,

Sent you a PM

Also all parts of an Outback are considered silencers themselves by the ATF, only place you could send it out to is a 07/02 to have them anodize it since they are licensed to do so. You would have to send the entire can with instructions for what you needed done since they need to make sure the parts got a stamp. By just sending a part out they wouldn't know if you were making a replacement part(which is a big no no) or if it were a F1 or whatnot.

By thread adapter end cap do you mean the thread mount? I believe on the Outback it is steel is it not?

-B

[bigbigpig]

The thread mount on the Outback is aluminum with a titanium thread insert.

[AgentAdam]

By 'main' part I mean a controlled item since it holds in the baffles. I thought you wanted to get yours knurled. If anything I would get my new baffle stack anodized but it might make things too tight. My Class II manufacture has a good hard coat anodizing guy.

I finally got the damn baffles out. I don't know if I have shot 500 or 2,000 rounds but I am never going to shoot a can wet with grease,oil,ect ever again. I think the 50/50 transmission fluid dip Gemtec recommends makes it dirty up twice as fast and short 2.5" barreled pistols don't help either. I think I should clean it every 250 rounds now.

[bigbigpig]

Oh I see what you mean. The tube is the part with the serial number but I was going to get the 2 endcaps knurled so I'd have something to grip. I haven't done that either yet.

[Bendersquint]

Oh I see what you mean. The tube is the part with the serial number but I was going to get the 2 endcaps knurled so I'd have something to grip. I haven't done that either yet.

The end caps are still controlled items(even though they are not serialized), you cant have extras but you can send the entire can to a 07/02 to have them knurl them or stand with them as they are being knurled at a regular machine shop.

Personally I would have a new set of caps made for it that are slightly larger in OD(.1 max) that way once knurled you will be able to grab onto the ends of with no problem. The Outback endcap isn't long enough to get a good grip on it. Besides the knurling would look pretty sad being so small.

-B

[AgentAdam]

I need to see how much they will charge to exchange my baffles and end caps.

[psp7]

I converted mine before I shot more than 100 rounds brand new. Now I clean it every 200 rounds maximum. Anything more and the baffles are a bugger to get out. I never did get the end cap off, just the rear mount. I'm glad I converted it as I didnt buy the lie Gemtech told me that I didnt need to worry about a sealed 22 silencer . Take your time and be careful as the serialized tube, thanks to Gemtax, cant be replaced without a new $200 tax stamp. Gemtech will charge $150 for a baffle replacement and cleaning . I hate to dump on Gemtech as they are generally a very good company that answers their phone when you have a question, but the whole 22 sealed Outback silencers "rarely ever get returned to us for cleaning" is either a big fat lie or folks go through the whole putting a frog in warm water and turning up the heat scenario by not recognizing a louder silencer after thousands of rounds. 22s are filthy and if ever there was a silencer in need of cleaning its the 22 rimfire.